Jasper Homminga
11-04-2004, 7:23 AM
Hello all
I figured I'd share some info on the sawvise that I build.
The design of this sawvise is based on a picture in the "Classic Hand Tools" book by Garrett Hack, albeit that the wooden sawvise in that book is much (MUCH) nicer. All sizes are in metric, I thought about using imperial, but I just don't know what size threads you have in imperial.
Needed (in millimetres):
wood
2x 40x30x300
2x 40x30x400
2x 50x30x450
hardware
2x 120 mm threaded rods (M8)
2x 90 mm threaded rods (M8)
2x M8 nuts
2x M8 wingnuts
2x M8 capnuts
4x M8 large washers
Start with the wooden parts: saw, chisel, plane and file the wooden parts to the dimensions in the drawings.
Drill the holes in the legs (7mm for the long legs and 9mm for the short legs).
1. Screw the 90mm threaded rods into the lower holes of the long legs (don't over tighten it, you will split the wood).
2. Screw the 120mm threaded rods into the upper holes of the long legs and secure it with a nut.
3. Place a nut and a washer on both 90mm threaded rods
4. Place the short legs over the threaded rods.
5. Place a washer and wingnut on the 120mm threaded rods.
6. Add glue between the jaws and the legs. Use the sawvise as a glue clamp making certain the jaw and legs make good contact.
Next morning you put the long legs in your benchvise and your sawvise is ready for use. The lower nuts control the vertical angle that the jaws make, the upper nuts deliver the force.
Notes:
The narrower ends of the jaws allowed my backsaws to be mounted without removing the handle, you may have to change the shape there to suit your saws.
When I first used it, the saw would slide down between the jaws during filing. A rubbery lining solved the problem easily.
The nut that secures the 120mm rod may not be needed, threading the rod into the wood may be enough.
Connecting the legs by another piece of wood (creating two H-shapes, as in the "Classic Hand Tools" book by Garrett Hack) would increase the stiffness remarkably. So far I have not needed the extra stiffness, but still.
Jasper
I figured I'd share some info on the sawvise that I build.
The design of this sawvise is based on a picture in the "Classic Hand Tools" book by Garrett Hack, albeit that the wooden sawvise in that book is much (MUCH) nicer. All sizes are in metric, I thought about using imperial, but I just don't know what size threads you have in imperial.
Needed (in millimetres):
wood
2x 40x30x300
2x 40x30x400
2x 50x30x450
hardware
2x 120 mm threaded rods (M8)
2x 90 mm threaded rods (M8)
2x M8 nuts
2x M8 wingnuts
2x M8 capnuts
4x M8 large washers
Start with the wooden parts: saw, chisel, plane and file the wooden parts to the dimensions in the drawings.
Drill the holes in the legs (7mm for the long legs and 9mm for the short legs).
1. Screw the 90mm threaded rods into the lower holes of the long legs (don't over tighten it, you will split the wood).
2. Screw the 120mm threaded rods into the upper holes of the long legs and secure it with a nut.
3. Place a nut and a washer on both 90mm threaded rods
4. Place the short legs over the threaded rods.
5. Place a washer and wingnut on the 120mm threaded rods.
6. Add glue between the jaws and the legs. Use the sawvise as a glue clamp making certain the jaw and legs make good contact.
Next morning you put the long legs in your benchvise and your sawvise is ready for use. The lower nuts control the vertical angle that the jaws make, the upper nuts deliver the force.
Notes:
The narrower ends of the jaws allowed my backsaws to be mounted without removing the handle, you may have to change the shape there to suit your saws.
When I first used it, the saw would slide down between the jaws during filing. A rubbery lining solved the problem easily.
The nut that secures the 120mm rod may not be needed, threading the rod into the wood may be enough.
Connecting the legs by another piece of wood (creating two H-shapes, as in the "Classic Hand Tools" book by Garrett Hack) would increase the stiffness remarkably. So far I have not needed the extra stiffness, but still.
Jasper