VE-810XD vs EGX Roland 350

[Steve Gamble]

Looking to start doing Trophies and awards, plaques in our sporting goods store.
Anyone give a little advice, feedback on these .
VE-810XD vs Roland EGX350..VS laser ?

I am just needing sports related trophies.
I need, easy to use cost efective method of getting lots of plates engraved and glued to trophies.
I just want super. Easy and reasonably fast.


Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Viktor Voroncov]

Steve - choose laser :) no doubt

[Steve Gamble]

Steve - choose laser :) no doubt

Really ?:confused:

If I walk away from the machine to serve a customer, I have a fire hazard.
The machines cost more.
I need to deal with smells.
I need to exhaust, and have more power.
I need more space for it.
and..
Why again ?
is it faster ?
Is it cleaner?
More options for the future ?
Why laser ???

Zing 12x16 25watt or 12x24 35 watt are the two options in laser.
plating comes 12x24, and better optics would be the 2 reasons for the 12x24 zing.
It is 90% for engraving sports trophies/plaques/medallions.
along with sublimation equipment, heatpresses, mug presses etc..
trying to keep the total cost reasonable.

[Ross Moshinsky]

My opinion is you should get a sublimation setup. I'd suggest one of these: http://colourmagic.info/printer.htm

Cheap gold satin aluminum and a good hand shear, you're production time will be very good and it will be cheap. You'll also be able to produce inexpensive plaques and medallions when needed.

Lasering trophy plates is very expensive. We use flexibrass on trophies all the time, but it's expensive and we know it. We use it on our big client in the spring and fall when they order 400-600 trophies and sublimation is simply too much hand work. That job alone will consume our laser for easily 1 full day. We could save time and run the plates at a lower resolution. I've said this about 10 times in my short time on this board, and I'll say it again, I run everything at 500dpi. I bet your average person with a laser will run trophy plates at 300dpi. 300dpi looks subpar IMO. Sublimation looks far better.

The other option is using laser aluminum, but that isn't cheap either. After being engraved, it still needed to be cut. To laser 12x12 piece of aluminum at 500dpi, you are looking at at least 15 minutes of engraving time. That's about 5 minutes of sublimation time.

Honestly, our sublimation printer and heat press was one of the best investments we ever made. You can do so much with them and it's very reasonable to do it that way. As a result, you can pass the savings on to the customer. If a customer comes in and needs a plaque for $30. If it's one piece, I might concede and laser it. If it's 10, I offer sublimation. I make great profit, it takes less time, and while I'm sublimating, my laser is free to run a $75-100 plaque/acrylic.

Sublimation is great for the awards business. A good printer, a good heat press, and a VERY good shear(buy an Accucutter with all the bells and whistles so you can get super accurate cuts) and you will be more profitable than with a laser.

[Ross Moshinsky]

I should also offer that you don't have reasonable expectations on the trophy business. It's typically a huge pain. People come in, waste a lot of your time, and then order 4 $12 trophies that they need in 1 hour. By the time you're done talking to them, getting their engraving, accepting their payment and anything else that may come up; you're 45 minutes in. Sometimes you waste 45 minutes and don't even get the order.

Don't expect the trophy business to be some huge hit for you. It won't be. Especially since everyone wants it yesterday. You need a lot of an inventory to keep up. You should see our inventory on trophy figures. We have about 10-15 for each major sport. 20+ different columns, all different risers, several different types of bases, ect ect ect. This isn't even including our resin inventory. We have this inventory and we literally have PDU, Marco, and JDS warehouses on our drive in. We stop by one of those 3 places atleast 3 times a week. Buying less than case quantity is EXPENSIVE compared to buying 100.

Honestly, I'm glad our trophy business is falling off. We have our select clients who come in every year and I happily do their orders. I just don't like the people strolling in at noon on a Saturday looking for 4 trophies and make me jump through hoops to find them exactly what they want. Meanwhile, they need it same day, have no idea how to spell the kid's name, and typically show up at 3:15 when I close at 3:00.

[Steve Gamble]

:rolleyes:
Laser or Rotary should be my question.
For a sports shop doing trophies.
want Easy to Use.
and simple to operate..;)

I was leaning towards laser..
But,
Rotary costs less to start up, less smell, less fire hazard, less power requirement, less space needed in my smallish engraving room.

but is Laser more user friendly with the files sent to me to engrave ?
less set up time ? less adjustments to get proper depth/power speed etc..:confused:

[Ross Moshinsky]

I say if you have that little space, you don't have enough room to do anything with trophies. My trophy supplies take up a lot of space. Radial arm saw, tons of columns, I easily have 10,000 figures, bases, risers, ect ect ect. Room for assembly. Room for storage. Trophies are a huge waste of space. That's not even including my large shear, engravers, and computer which are in another room. Now my space isn't the most efficient, but you definitely need room in order to make trophies.

Otherwise, I gave you my advice. Sublimation is the way to go. For you, sublimation>laser>rotary. I wouldn't buy another rotary machine. My IS6000 doesn't get a ton of use any more. I use it to mark custom plaques, on colored brass, and large awards. My IS400 only gets primarily used on PBA cards and the misc. gold brass plaque I do. The laser runs the most. I'd trade my IS6000 for a big laser in a second. Next year depending on the economy, it's likely that I'll try to do that.

[Viktor Voroncov]

First and biggest advantage - laser is MORE UNIVERSAL than rotary.
Second - faster in work.
Thrid - faster in return of investments.

of course sublimation must be second technology after laser with heat transfer - third :)

[Steve Gamble]

My opinion is you should get a sublimation setup. I'd suggest one of these: http://colourmagic.info/printer.htm

Cheap gold satin aluminum and a good hand shear, you're production time will be very good and it will be cheap. You'll also be able to produce inexpensive plaques and medallions when needed.

Lasering trophy plates is very expensive. We use flexibrass on trophies all the time, but it's expensive and we know it. We use it on our big client in the spring and fall when they order 400-600 trophies and sublimation is simply too much hand work. That job alone will consume our laser for easily 1 full day. We could save time and run the plates at a lower resolution. I've said this about 10 times in my short time on this board, and I'll say it again, I run everything at 500dpi. I bet your average person with a laser will run trophy plates at 300dpi. 300dpi looks subpar IMO. Sublimation looks far better.

The other option is using laser aluminum, but that isn't cheap either. After being engraved, it still needed to be cut. To laser 12x12 piece of aluminum at 500dpi, you are looking at at least 15 minutes of engraving time. That's about 5 minutes of sublimation time.

Honestly, our sublimation printer and heat press was one of the best investments we ever made. You can do so much with them and it's very reasonable to do it that way. As a result, you can pass the savings on to the customer. If a customer comes in and needs a plaque for $30. If it's one piece, I might concede and laser it. If it's 10, I offer sublimation. I make great profit, it takes less time, and while I'm sublimating, my laser is free to run a $75-100 plaque/acrylic.

Sublimation is great for the awards business. A good printer, a good heat press, and a VERY good shear(buy an Accucutter with all the bells and whistles so you can get super accurate cuts) and you will be more profitable than with a laser.

Wow..
Thank you for the input.
Yes I'm ordering a Roland GX7000 sub printer, and Goerge knight heatpress, and mug press.
and deciding what laser or router to throw in with the order.
(ps. I have no experience with this)
I hope I am ordering the right equipment ?:rolleyes:
I thought sublimation was slow and difficult, but thought I needed it.

I basically need what is simple, I won't make a lot of money at it, I know, So I want it to at least be as Easy and straight forward as possible.
user friendly software. minimal set up time for engraving etc,..

Can you recommend a model of Accucutter ?

[Steve Gamble]

I say if you have that little space, you don't have enough room to do anything with trophies. My trophy supplies take up a lot of space. Radial arm saw, tons of columns, I easily have 10,000 figures, bases, risers, ect ect ect. Room for assembly. Room for storage. Trophies are a huge waste of space. That's not even including my large shear, engravers, and computer which are in another room. Now my space isn't the most efficient, but you definitely need room in order to make trophies.

Otherwise, I gave you my advice. Sublimation is the way to go. For you, sublimation>laser>rotary. I wouldn't buy another rotary machine. My IS6000 doesn't get a ton of use any more. I use it to mark custom plaques, on colored brass, and large awards. My IS400 only gets primarily used on PBA cards and the misc. gold brass plaque I do. The laser runs the most. I'd trade my IS6000 for a big laser in a second. Next year depending on the economy, it's likely that I'll try to do that.

I have a Pretty big building, 2 storey, lots of space..just the actual computer / engraving room is small 8x10. but I can have a separate stock room or move my engraving to a bigger room.
This is just to be a small sideline to my sports goods and apparel.
I require a week lead on trophies..and catalogue order (next day delivery).
I just learned about sublimation..and I will try it.
I will go laser not rotary.. Zing 12x16 or Zing 12x24(better optics?)
I was hoping to stay under $10K for the engraver is why I thought rotary.
And I am almost only doing team sports awards.
maybe $7,500.00 year not big business, but helps create more foot traffic to my store for other things.
Any advice on
Sublimation printer GX7000 Ricoh ?
Accuctter Sheer model ?
laser Zing ?

[Ross Moshinsky]

I have no experience with any sublimation setup other than my own. Overall I'm pleased with it. Make sure whatever you get is very good on gold aluminum/brass. Some sublimation setups are not as good on gold aluminum/brass as they are on white. Mine is awful on white, but very good on gold. I like lasers because they are very fast to print. It takes maybe 15-30 seconds per page. Inkjets are typically slower, but not nearly as slow as they once were. I like laser printers more than inkjets in general, so I prefer sticking with lasers.

I wouldn't buy a laser. I don't see your business warranting it. I'd only get a laser if you were thinking about doing nice plaques/acrylics. Coaches plaques or something like that are perfectly fine sublimated. Especially if you add a nice graphic or some color.

The Accucutter shear is on my things to buy list. I have a big Diarco that isn't cutting well and also doesn't allow me to batch cut(print a sheet of trophy plates, sublimate them all at once, and then cut them up after). If I were going to buy, I'd either get the 2001Evo model with the Tru-Square Guide, Ruler, & the drop off bar or the 3001EVO/13. I see myself buying the 2001Evo in the Fall.

I'd get the following:

Good XP Pro PC with Corel Draw.
Laser sublimation machine.
12x18 Heat Press
Accucutter Shear
Hitachi 12" Sliding Mitre Saw

[Viktor Voroncov]

We are resellers of Accucutter in Europe so my vote for 3001 or 4001. Fantastic tools!

[Steve Gamble]

I have no experience with any sublimation setup other than my own. Overall I'm pleased with it. Make sure whatever you get is very good on gold aluminum/brass. Some sublimation setups are not as good on gold aluminum/brass as they are on white. Mine is awful on white, but very good on gold. I like lasers because they are very fast to print. It takes maybe 15-30 seconds per page. Inkjets are typically slower, but not nearly as slow as they once were. I like laser printers more than inkjets in general, so I prefer sticking with lasers.

I wouldn't buy a laser. I don't see your business warranting it. I'd only get a laser if you were thinking about doing nice plaques/acrylics. Coaches plaques or something like that are perfectly fine sublimated. Especially if you add a nice graphic or some color.

The Accucutter shear is on my things to buy list. I have a big Diarco that isn't cutting well and also doesn't allow me to batch cut(print a sheet of trophy plates, sublimate them all at once, and then cut them up after). If I were going to buy, I'd either get the 2001Evo model with the Tru-Square Guide, Ruler, & the drop off bar or the 3001EVO/13. I see myself buying the 2001Evo in the Fall.

I'd get the following:

Good XP Pro PC with Corel Draw.
Laser sublimation machine.
12x18 Heat Press
Accucutter Shear
Hitachi 12" Sliding Mitre Saw

I have 2 good mitre saws.
16x20 heat press, need big for hockey jerseys.
New PC with Corel draw.

buying.
GX7000 Ricoh Gel ink printer (efficient)
Mug Press
Shear...? Under $1,000.
Many supplies... much learning...
Zing Laser, maybe a used Helix (local one for sale)

[Steve Gamble]

First and biggest advantage - laser is MORE UNIVERSAL than rotary.
Second - faster in work.
Thrid - faster in return of investments.

of course sublimation must be second technology after laser with heat transfer - third :)

I'm sold on laser.
Didn't realize sublimation was so popular and efficient:rolleyes:

[Steve Gamble]

Quote from another post..re; GX7000 from Ricoh. Gel printer.

Just wanted to give everyone a heads up on if they are planning on getting into the Sublimation game or not. This new printer is the BOMB... I really like it and it's like I've started learing Sublimation all over again.

If you're new to it - don't worry, the learning curve is not that big - if you'll be upgrading from an older system - it's about the same. The GEL ink is so much stronger, I've had to turn down the saturation level to keep from over inking my shirts and stuff.

IMHO - its a PITA to setup. Two different print drivers and the color profile match. It doesn't have auto mirror capability - you have to do it in Corel or use Sawgrass Power Print Driver (which doesn't have color match capability).

Anyway - thought I'd post it here because most laser engravers eventually get a sublimation setup for supplementing their laser. This is my third system, went from Laser/Toner (HP 4550), to Sawgrass Ink (Epson 1400) to now this one.

[Ron Fairbanks]

Love my 5 year old VE-810 XD. For quick and easy it's the way to go.

[Martin Boekers]

From what I hear the new gel inks are great. I have an Epson 1400 with bulk set up the tubes get tangled all the time and jets clog requiring lots of cleaning IE ink waste.

Color management is better with gel inks from what I understand (it's been tough and much waste with the Epson.)

Not sure about color fastness with gels, but regular inks do fade.

Since you are getting set up for this. You may want to check out CLLT (Magic Touch USA) Uses standard laser printer with special transfer sheets. You already have the heat press and probably a laser printer so you are already set up! This won't replace dye sub, but be an addition to it.

Before you consider (in the future) to up grade to a laser or rotary, rotary does have quite the learning curve as there are more variables you will be dealing with. If you know Corel you can start lasering off the bat and learn as you go. The rotary on the other hand will take some time before you are running jobs.

The set-up your looking at will get you up and running quickly. Just remember you have to use products that are coated for dye sub and that the inks aren't cheap!


Marty

[Hilton Lister]

I totally disagree.

Rotary is a far more versatile option. Laser engraving on plain aluminium plate is not what clients expect. It has no depth and is comparatively difficult to read unless you use plastics or Alumamark.

Sublimation is a viable alternative for trophy plates, but unless you're using it very often, there is a tendency to clog the printheads (though the newer inks are much improved in this regard) and for the ink to go off in colour. The Inks are very expensive as well, then there is print paper and special plate required.

Problem here is that you are in contact mostly with laser people and to quote Rodne "when you have a hammer, everything looks like a nail"

Incidently, we have manual engraving machines, Rotaries, Sublimation, Laser engraving and sandblasting systems. Also, we do a little hand engraving (mostly on jewellery), but out greatest amount of profit, by far, is generated by the rotaries. As others have mentioned, we engrave the plates in full sheet size and cut them up with a guillotine afterwards.

[Ross Moshinsky]

From what I hear the new gel inks are great. I have an Epson 1400 with bulk set up the tubes get tangled all the time and jets clog requiring lots of cleaning IE ink waste.

Color management is better with gel inks from what I understand (it's been tough and much waste with the Epson.)

Not sure about color fastness with gels, but regular inks do fade.

Since you are getting set up for this. You may want to check out CLLT (Magic Touch USA) Uses standard laser printer with special transfer sheets. You already have the heat press and probably a laser printer so you are already set up! This won't replace dye sub, but be an addition to it.

Before you consider (in the future) to up grade to a laser or rotary, rotary does have quite the learning curve as there are more variables you will be dealing with. If you know Corel you can start lasering off the bat and learn as you go. The rotary on the other hand will take some time before you are running jobs.

The set-up your looking at will get you up and running quickly. Just remember you have to use products that are coated for dye sub and that the inks aren't cheap!


Marty

You don't need special paper with the laser. I use cheap standard office paper and the results are as good as the laser paper or the fancy HP photo paper. As much as I like the guy from Magic Touch, his practical knowledge is hit or miss. He told me I should be able to sublimate on white and it should look great. It doesn't. It looks dirty because the paper picks up all the laser "dust" on the paper. It never shows on gold, but always shows on white. I'll also be honest, and say colors are hit or miss. They look acceptable most of the time, but not brilliant or fantastic. Black does look brilliant and fantastic though. Really bold and dark. I couldn't think of a better option for a trophy store.

I just want to go on record, I think you are making a HUGE mistake by buying a laser. I know the business well enough to know you don't need one. It will be a complete waste of money. Everything a trophy shop needs done can be done with a sublimation printer. A laser will keep you from being profitable at $7500 a year in sales. Sublimation printer you will be profitable the first year. We're in business to make money, not lose it.

[Martin Boekers]

I'm a bit confused. Magic Touch isn't sublimation. It's a toner transfer process that does require a special release paper.

If you use standard paper the toner is already fused to the fibers of the paper an won't transfer to another substrate.

Maybe I'm missing something?

Marty

[Ross Moshinsky]

I'm a bit confused. Magic Touch isn't sublimation. It's a toner transfer process that does require a special release paper.

If you use standard paper the toner is already fused to the fibers of the paper an won't transfer to another substrate.

Maybe I'm missing something?

Marty

I apologize, the toner I use the guy has about 20 domains and one is called "Colour Magic". Without clicking the link I thought it was all the same stuff. With the toner I use, on the 4550, I just use regular paper.

I apologize for any confusion.

[Rodne Gold]

The trophy business is what you make of it..
You can carry a commodity that a zillion others do with low margins and then you need the cheapest way of marking em or you can buy a laser and add to your stock by MAKING custom awards at much higher margins and enhance your exclusivity apart from getting a more diverse trade coming to your shop.
I have all the equipment here , barring subli which we gave up some years ago in favour of direct printing and now large format digital.
At any rate , we almost NEVER use rotary , use digital printing with doming quite a lot for inserts and plates , and use our lasers BIG time. The best move I ever made in my business trophy and engraving wise was our first laser.
I service customers from the one off to large coporate - I could never have had the growth I have had without the laser.
You already have a captive audience , a great customer base , all the infrastructure etc - my suggestion is to go laser and make something of it.. I think you can make as good a living with awards and trophys as with sports goods.

My website is tokerbros.co.za - I am too far away for this to be a promotion of my own business and i'm citing it to you for reference as to the type of stuff you can do.

[Steve Gamble]

The trophy business is what you make of it..
You can carry a commodity that a zillion others do with low margins and then you need the cheapest way of marking em or you can buy a laser and add to your stock by MAKING custom awards at much higher margins and enhance your exclusivity apart from getting a more diverse trade coming to your shop.
I have all the equipment here , barring subli which we gave up some years ago in favour of direct printing and now large format digital.
At any rate , we almost NEVER use rotary , use digital printing with doming quite a lot for inserts and plates , and use our lasers BIG time. The best move I ever made in my business trophy and engraving wise was our first laser.
I service customers from the one off to large coporate - I could never have had the growth I have had without the laser.
You already have a captive audience , a great customer base , all the infrastructure etc - my suggestion is to go laser and make something of it.. I think you can make as good a living with awards and trophys as with sports goods.

My website is tokerbros.co.za - I am too far away for this to be a promotion of my own business and i'm citing it to you for reference as to the type of stuff you can do.

Well this is the thing. To be able to do a little extra with the trophies or awards, or whatever the Teams want.
I'd like to make a profit, but have no dreams of making a living from it.
I am a one stop shop for sports teams, So I need awards.
I really like the idea of cost effective sublimation, and the creative work that can be done for the clients. If my work is a little more unique, a little more attractive, I will get the traffic in here and in my neighbourhood they'll pay a little more for it.
7500 per year, but it my first year opened. russellprohockeyshop.com
is my website, that my wife is building just for the locals to gather info on us as we bring new things to our town.
it is a fun business.
the laser is my last thing on my list, all else was ordered today.
I'm back and forth on it.
2007 Helix w/ALL avail options(rotary/grids) like New cond for 11K is avail for me.? Taxes Inc.

[Martin Boekers]

While we are at it, this may not be the right spot for it Mike, so feel free to move it is you want.

We have addressed a few processes recently with putting images onto acrylic etc. flatbed printers were part of the discussion.

Today I got the March issue of Sign & Design Graphics and low and behold on page 114, Mimaki has introduced a desktop UV LED Printer. Model UJF-3042 I tracked down a dist. in Texas and he is to email me more info on it tomorrow. Right now there are 2 of these in the states. One will be on display at an upcoming show in Orlando Florida. It is believe to have a depth for product up to 4-6", Footprint about 3 foot Sq. A bit of searching forward, I found a suggested price around $12,000. Hmmm that makes it interesting! (At least on paper.) I'd like to see some samples and one in action.

I have been seriously considering a flatbed for the last year, but haven't been too impressed with the choices. Maybe this could work?


Marty

[Ross Moshinsky]

Direct to substrate is the future. I'm not sure if this year is the year, but in the next 5, it definitely will be a GREAT thing to have and use.

[Rodne Gold]

Well , I had a Busjet that did print direct to object/substrate (when it actually worked) and it wasnt a big profit centre - I was the first kid on the block too as well as having a big customer base and a good marketing dept ... there really is nothing "new" about transferring/printing colour to objects and that technology has it's own set of problems too.

[Martin Boekers]

Don't we know about each process having it's own set of issues to deal with:p.

I guess I'm hoping that since this is made by a company that has been creating UV printers and not a "converted inkjet" that this may be better.
Plus the added versitility of using UV inks instead of inks that were not designed for the product, but making them work. That as I know may just be wishful thinking!

I do have a call for these products at a decent level. So that is my interest in it.

It's always hard making a call to purchase something like this, because you want to make sure you are offering a new product that will bring in new work. Not just trading off with clients that "they used to buy this now they buy that syndrom." The main concern is new revenue not just trade offs.

Marty

[Rodne Gold]

Well you will have issues in many respects , UV inks are actually not UV stable , they require a lamp and thus some heat to cure em- some stuff doesnt like heat , inks are quite expensive , require a big capital outlay , are not as opaque as you think , tend to crack when flexed , have banding issues and so on.
Converted inkjet has issues with inks , special coatings , dampers , head clogging , motion system etc , dont also print on anything - you hve to coat some stuff , high cost of machine tho printing is cheap , opacity and white printing is a problem
All of em cant really print well on undulating surfaces , the surfaces have to be flat
Both have issues with colour matching if you not printing on white , both have issues with durability and scuff resistance and UV exposure.
I was printing directly to anodised ally , perspex , vinyl , styrene , abs , ribbons , cardstock , lighters , promo items , material , ceramics , stone, wood , glass , rowmark etc with absolutely stunning results and was making huge profits on the cost of printing , however the issues aformentioned made it less than attractive to customers. Most stuff will need coatings or overlaminations to last
Print speeds which were not exactly fast at higher resolutions either.
The only ppl that were dead keen was the promo marking industry where small full colour logos could be put on cheap rubbish like BIC lighters for around 20c a pop and that would probably have been a good business - other areas were the wine industry where you could do full colour prints on boxes used for premium wine.
I used my laser to make jigs to hold multiple items.
Thing is , if these things get real cheap - then the colour printing to substrate industry is totally a waste of time cos every tom dick and harry will be doing it and you will see rediculous pricing

[Martin Boekers]

Thanks for you input!

Everything always seems nicer on the surface.

I have access to a screen shop that has both heat and UV cure system.
I can do up to about a 30x40 area on a swipe with full registration. On the UV with screen print it can get messy as the ink doesnt set til cured I've only worked with vinyl decals on that set-up so I have no idea how other substrates react.

It seems from what I have heard in the graphics industry that UV was the best. (so that doesn't come from my experience). Solvent printers are lower resolution and environmently a difficult proposition.

I have a job that I'm bidding on now that has about 30-4"x6"x24" aluminum rectangles. The existing signs were white vinyl with black vinyl letters. the previous has lasted about a year or so. Peeling and faded. I'm thinking of sand blasting the old vinyl off the painting it with a white outdoor paint. Do a laser mask and spray the letters black.

Am I thinking right? Is there a better way to do this so it lasts? Rodne you have worked with more processes than anyone I know, what are your recommendations.

Thanks!

Marty

[Rodne Gold]

The black vinyl must have been the cheapest of the cheap to have come off and faded. A premium cast vinyl will have up to 10 years adhesive life in terrible conditions and should never fade.
You will struggle to sandblast the vinyl off , we use vinyl as a resist...
You need a heat gun and a vinyl remover tool thingy - you get em at sign shops
.
The cheapest way to redo these is with premium vinyl , and if the letters are big enough , you can kiss cut this in the laser. Usual laser/pvc caveats apply..
You can screen em too - flood coat white and then
screen the black
The easiest way with a laser is to use 3mm white perspex , laser engrave the letters and paint fill , apply to the ally boards. Thats about as permanent as you will get. Also be the most expensive option.
In my place , I would digitally print on top notch white , overlaminate with a soft matte , reload , cut and apply to the boards. I would give a 5 yr guarantee on em..
I would charge round about $100 per sq meter + about $15 to remove old and apply
For pex colour filled , I would charge about $200 per sq meter applied over the old stuff , ie $20 per sq ft - if its small stuff , I would go in at $30 per sq ft
I think your biggest labour expense is removing the old stuff - try a method tht allows you to apply over it - like the pex.

[Martin Boekers]

Thanks!!!

I will getting one of the pieces early next week to see what pre-work needs to be done.

Your price range was right at where I ball-parked it after seeing the display. It fit within their budget. So my next step is getting the piece and see how much time in prepping it. I do have access to a vinyl cutter so that maybe the way I go with it.

One other thing, the UV printer is priced at $37,000 USD not $12,000 the sight advertising it as such was determined to be a "bogus" website out of Malaysia. So no UV for me!

Thanks Rodne for your insite!

Mike, I promise next time I post in signage!:D

Marty