Cannot remove pulley from motor, please help!!!

[Michael Dunn]

Hey guys,

I bought a couple of machined steel steel pulleys from Highland I also bought some of the twist drive belts. I was trying to remove my pulley from my band saw motor when the ball end of my allen key snapped off in the set screw. Long story short, it wouldn't come out so I tried to drill it out thinking that I would be able to use a broken screw removal kit to back out the set screw once I removed the broken allen key's head.

Well, by the time I got the allen head out the set screw was almost completely gone. Any tips on how I can get this set screw out (just keep drilling???) There is also some rust holding it on. How can I pry it off once the set screw is not holding it anymore? WD-40? will that break the rust seal?

I wish I would have bought a brand new saw!!!!!!!! Or at least a much better used saw!!!

Thanx,

shotgunn

[george wilson]

What is the old pulley made of? If it is cast iron,you might try using a pulley remover,and just dragging it off. The set screw is most likely over a key,so you won't have to have a groove in the shaft. If possible,use the type pulley puller with 3 arms to spread the pressure,and not just crack the cast iron rim off.

It would also be very helpful to heat the pulley,but not the shaft. Then,quickly mount the puller and pull it off.

You could also squirt some Break Free penetrating oil against the shaft on both sides of the pulley,and let it sit for a few days before heating and pulling the pulley.

[Josh Bowman]

Plus Plus for the penetrating oil . But before you get oil on it, you might try, if you're careful to use some heat like a torch to heat JUST the pulley, then see if it will break free. If that doesn't work, before it completely cools throw the penetrating oil to it. Give it a night to work, if that doesn't work, buy or borrow a cheap puller, auto parts stores have them. That will work.

[Myk Rian]

WD40 isn't for rust, it's to prevent moisture from collecting. Get some PB Blaster or other penetrating oil.
Sounds like the pulley is getting torn up. Just drill out everything you need to in order to get it off.

[Marty Paulus]

Another vote for continue to drill. Worst case is you will have a small drill divot where the set screw was. If the new pulley, or even this one if you retap the hole, lines back up it will not hurt having the divot. The advice for the wheel puller and penetrating oil will go a long way. You will be surprised as to how easy the pulley will come off when you use a wheel puller.

[Bruce Koch]

Just had the same problem with those ball end hex wrench. I took an angle grinder and just ground the set screw off the pulley. I got the pulley off with ease after that.

[Chip Lindley]

Drill out the remaining set screw until you reach the depth of the shaft key. Do Not drill deeper and risk damaging the motor shaft! With the set screw free, all that remains holding the pulley on the shaft is rusty friction.

Liquid Wrench is my old standby for a penetrating oil. Let stand overnight, and use a small puller to remove the pulley. Often times after the rust bond is broken, the pulley can be twisted off the shaft. Use additional penetrating oil to make the parts slide easily.

If still stubborn, a sharp rap or two with hammer against a piece of iron pipe just larger than the shaft will loosen things nicely. The right size socket from the toolbox can be used. Use heat as last resort on a motor shaft.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

+1 on using heat as a last resort. Ther are a lot of wires and plastic parts around. Don't go wild heating anything up until you absolutely have to.

Drilling and penetrating oil works wonders, it SHOULD come off. Sometimes, there are 2 set screws in there. Did you try an EZ-out? Once you have the setscrew drilled out, with the heat from drilling they usually can be taken out with the proper sized EZ-out.

[Pete Bradley]

You already have a replacement pulley, so assume the existing pulley will be destroyed. Drill the set screw out completely. Use liquid wrench or PB on the shaft and a puller if necessary. If you don't own a puller and the existing pulley is pot metal you can also break the edges off and cut with a mini hacksaw (the kind with just a blade sticking out), just cut over the key so you don't damage the shaft. Don't beat on the end of the motor shaft as you'll mushroom the shaft and/or damage bearings and cause bigger problems.

These pulley/belt "upgrades" are rarely what they're cracked up to be unless the original pulley is way out. Usually the biggest impact comes from replacing the old belt with a new one. Still, you're committed now, should work fine after a little pain. :D

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Michael,
You already got a lot of good advice on removing the pulley. If George offers advice, you can believe it came with a lot of experience behind it. I want to address your last sentence. Don't get discouraged. Old machines can present a real challenge, especially if you haven't messed around with metal much. Look at as hobby hours. If you needed the saw for your living, it would be a different story. Restoring an old woodworking machine can be time well spent. You will probably have a great saw when you are finished. Besides, you'll know how to remove seized set screws and pulleys. You're local auto repair shop can lend you a pulley puller.
fmr

[David G Baker]

As a last resort take a hack saw and cut the pulley in half. A lot of pulleys are aluminum and will cut quite easily. If they are steel a hack saw will still work, just more labor.

[Walter Plummer]

If you go to buy penetrating oil I recommend "DEEP CREEP" made by Sea Foam. Excellent stuff. We have used it on a couple of project machines.

[Doug Hobkirk]

Most aspects seem to be covered but I will add a tidbit or two.

First, allen ball sockets are NOT for high stress. They are to be used to turn a set screw or bolt in/out after it's been broken loose or before it's to be seriously tightened.

PB Blaster is better than WD-40. But with either, squirt it and rap the center of the pulley hard with a hammer to set off vibrations. This helps break the rust "seal" and allow the oil to penetrate. I would use a socket so I am hitting only the pulley, not the shaft.

The puller should work, especially after the above. But if you cannot find one, keep drilling. In the worst case scenario you can enlarge the hole to the next size or drill another hold of the original size on the opposite side of the flange. In either case you would need to tap it which might require an extension so the handle can clear the body of the pulley.

PS - I wouldn't worry about drilling the motor shaft. It's pretty hard and you will just give the set screw a more secure surface to bite into if you do actually make a dent in the shaft.

[Pete Bradley]

PS - I wouldn't worry about drilling the motor shaft. It's pretty hard and you will just give the set screw a more secure surface to bite into if you do actually make a dent in the shaft.
Unless it's a very small motor, the set screw almost certainly bears on a key rather than the shaft.

I'll second the comment about not getting discouraged. One of the keys to getting really good at working on old machines, cars, etc. is staying calm and gritting your way out of a tough situation without destroying more than necessary.

[brian c miller]

Like other have said:

Drill out the set screw, penetrating spray, then heat. Don't sweat it too much, shafts are almost always keyed and new keys are pretty cheap.

Oh,don't use the oil and the heat at the same time... think flame thrower. :eek:

[Ed Harrow]

Another excellent 'penetrating' oil is Kroil, from KANO Labs. I was introduced to it recently, and it worked a treat (when nothing else had) in removing some steel plumbing fittings from a steel connector, both well rusted, inside and out.

Left-hand drill bits (you can get them from McMaster-Carr) are excellent for screw removal.

Plus the other suggestions re heat, whacking, and a proper puller. I like to mount the puller first, tighten the center screw to put some tension on things, then heat the pulley for a bit. Go away, do something else, then come back for a look see, more pressure, more heat - repeat as necessary - but don't rush it.

[george wilson]

I had forgotten to mention getting a few masonry bits with carbide tips. They work best if you can run them at about 2000r.p.m. . they will drill out the set screw and the broken off wrench tip. The high speed of the drill takes the temper out of the set screw. It can also melt the brazing and cause the carbide tip to fall off,so do watch the bit's heat. The setscrew,unless it is a real Asian cheapie,will be hardened too,and you can ruin quite a few drill bits trying regular HSS ones. Try to get a masonry bit that is a little bigger than your set screw. You can get them in 3/16",1/4",or 3/8" on up.

I'd thought about sawing off the pulley,but that could be some work. Try the other suggestions first,including the masonry bits. They are only a few dollars each. Buy some extras. You can even drill holes in files with them.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have a set of Grabits, and they are very handy for this sort of thing. You may have drilled out too much of it to work now, but I have used it for a couple of well broken off screws and it seems to do well.

Doc

[mickey cassiba]

Lots of good advice already posted, but I thought I toss this in: the broken end of an allen wrench can be removed quick and easy, just a little puff of air...pop it right out.
As to the pulley, if it's mystery metal, definitely cut it off. Again, easy. Don't mess around with heat. If it's a real steel pulley, a little more finesse is required. Leave the hammer in the box!
MIckey

[Clarence Miller]

I have used a dremel with a cut off wheel on pot metal before. I would recommend exhausting the other alternatives first. For some reason I can't explain the episode of Red Green where Edgar uses gun powder to loosen a painted stuck window comes to mind whenever things like this come up.:D

[Kevin Gregoire]

if you go to try a penetrating lube, be sure to give Mopar heater control valve solvent a try
its like wd40 on steroids and you should be able to get it at any dodge dealers

[george wilson]

When I was a teenager in Alaska,I knew a logger who claimed that he could blow holes for wooden log pilings(everyone used them) under your house without hurting it!!! I didn't believe him,and still don't.

[Andrew Joiner]

Also be sure there is only one set screw. I worked liked crazy to get a double belt pulley off a bandsaw motor. The first set screw pressed on the key and the key came out easily,but the pulley wouldn't spin free.After I got the pulley off I saw it had a SECOND set screw. I would have needed a mirror to see it when it was on the shaft.

You can bet I never yank another pulley without looking for more than one set screw!

[Floyd Mah]

Here's another Dremel approach. Sometimes, if the set screw is not too terribly countersunk, you can use an abrasive cutoff disc on the Dremel to cut a slot into the top of the set screw and then use a flat screw driver to turn the screw. I used this technique to unfasten a deadbolt that had small rivets covering the screw heads: just slotted the accessible parts and unscrewed the bolts. This will be the least sweat approach if combined with the penetrating oil.

[Michael Dunn]

Wow!!! Great responses guys, thanx!!!

Thanx for the encouraging words too!

I'll try liquid wrench first, since I have some right here. If that alone doesn't work then I'll ask one of my three 'gear head' neighbors that build hot rods and restore classic cars.

Thanx and I'll keep you posted.

shotgunn

[Chad Stucke]

Sometimes the set screws are rusted in and not really tight on the shaft.
I have pulled several off without getting them loose first.
Heat helps if you don't go crazy you shouldnt have a problem.
Chad

[george wilson]

Stacked set screws are used on high quality machines. My Hardinge HLVH lathe has stacked set screws. My old 1950's Delta jointer had stacked set screws on the motor pulley. You could tighten the TOP set screw,thinking it was tight,but the pulley still came loose again after some weeks. That was years ago. I finally discovered the 2nd. set screw!

Good idea about grinding a slot in the set screw. O wouldn't hammer on the shaft. Your blows will be directed to the ball bearings,and may make flat spots on the balls.

[Matt Follett]

I had exact same issue, I went to autozone and got a Pully puller for $20, it clamps to backside of puller and using a large wrench it pushe s a screw against motor shaft and pulleys come off no matter how bad there on there.

The tool worked so fast and so easy it had no marks on it. I ended up returing it, saying it was to big for my application seeing as how I can not invison every using it again