Plane help for a NooB

[Rick Markham]

Hey ya'll, I wanted to say thanks! I love the forum, I have been reading everything I can especially here in the Neanderthal Haven. Let me give ya a brief run down of my woodworking experience... I have no formal training, just a whole lot of interest, a thirst for knowledge, and some raw talent... or so I have been told. I have been building furniture (mostly tables and bookshelves) for several years, and boxes etc. I am starting several more complicated furniture projects but that isn't important at this point.

Let me get to my point... I was hoping ya'll could help me out with some questions I am having trouble finding answers too. I bought my first plane, and it arrived this week (it's my baby) a LN no 8 jointer. Now to my questions... what is the best procedure for setting the blade depth? What is the best way to make sure that I have the Lateral blade adjustment lever set right?

I was also hoping that you all would share your methods for planing a flat square board. I would like the focus (especially with edge jointing) to be on squaring the edge and making it flat, not match planing. I want to learn the traditional methods first ;). I was also planning on adding to my plane collection (when funds allow) with a LN 60 1/2, A 4 1/2 smoother (and a HA Frog for it too), and a 5 1/2 Jack plane. I generally work with hardwoods, often highly figured. What are your opinions on those choices of planes... I am well aware that I have I have caught the hand plane bug (I knew it the moment I held that jointer!)

Thanks Ya'll!!! ---Rick

[eric eaton]

Check out all of the Lie Nielsen Youtube videos, some very handy tips there including a technique for setting the lateral using a thin piece of stock on edge (You just adjust the lateral lever until you get an equal shaving on each edge of the blade).

As far as edge jointing, use a good straightedge or the edge of the plane body and then mark the high spots with a pencil, then get to work !!! Check square as you go and have fun :)

Also, hit your plane base with paraffin wax every few minutes, it makes a world of difference.

Good luck and have fun !

[Rick Erickson]

Rick - congrats on the LN #8. That is an excellent plane. I own and love mine. Your other choices are right in line. I prefer the 1/2 sizes but some don't.

In terms of technique, etc. there are a ton of ways you can go here. If you want to learn how to flatten a board check out Christopher Schwarz's DVD called "Handplane basics: A better way to use bench planes". Rob Cosman also has a good DVD titled "Rough to Ready" which walks you through flattening a board. You can't go wrong with either.

If you prefer reading check out many of the woodworking blogs (one example - http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/Tips+On+Fore+Planes+And+Flattening+Panels.aspx). Just google on it and you can't miss them - you may even find a tutorial or two on this site. There are some excellent woodworkers here.
I would highly recommend you buy a good book on handplanes. Chrisopher Schwarz sells an excellent one called "Handplane Essentials". IIRC it even covers flatteing boards and edges. If you can't afford the book most of the topics are covered in his blogs (see link above).

Of course nothing beats hands-on classes. If you have any in your area sign up. IMO there is no better way to learn.

[James Taglienti]

I use my fingertips and practice strokes to set the blade depth and lateral. Usually I start with it all the way backed off and progress slowly down a piece of scrap thats a bit wider than the plane, turning the nut until the blade bites. That should give me an immediate idea of which way the lateral needs to go too.

[Rick Markham]

Hey thanks guys, I am going to give those a try. I ordered several books, one of which is the "Handplane essentials" but it will be 5 days or so before it is here, so I wanted to pick your brains before then. I will definitely check out "Rough and Ready". As well as everything else that I can get my hands on.

[Rick Erickson]

Rick - you didn't mention your ability to sharpen. If that doesn't exist you will want to quickly get up to speed on this. Your new planes will quickly become frustrating with a dull blade. Again, Schwartz and Cosman both have DVDs that cover this topic. David Charlesworth has a nice DVD series that covers most if not all of what you are looking for. I like his stuff but IMO he is tough to get through (very slow and deliberate). However, you will learn from one of the best. You can pick up a lot of these DVDs (for rent) on smartflix.com (if you aren't looking to buy).

[Rob Young]

Somebody already mentioned the LN YouTube videos. Very nice and to the point.

Also the Cosman "Rough to Ready" DVD and C.S.'s DVDs. Also good.

I can never remember the rule about posting links to other web sites so I'll do it as prose. If you toddle on over to SmartFlix dot com you can rent some of the aforementioned DVDs before making a purchase. Well worth the time to watch David Charlesworth, Chris Schwarz and Rob Cosman all approach the same problem.

[Rob Young]

Rick - you didn't mention your ability to sharpen. If that doesn't exist you will want to quickly get up to speed on this. Your new planes will quickly become frustrating with a dull blade. Again, Schwartz and Cosman both have DVDs that cover this topic. David Charlesworth has a nice DVD series that covers most if not all of what you are looking for. I like his stuff but IMO he is tough to get through (very slow and deliberate). However, you will learn from one of the best. You can pick up a lot of these DVDs (for rent) on smartflix.com (if you aren't looking to buy).

Whoops, I just posted pretty much the same suggestion! Sorry, I guess I wasn't paying attention.

[Jim Koepke]

Rick,

Welcome to the Creek.

Pretty much all the good advise has already been given.

I do like James said and turn the blade adjustment while the plane is on a piece of wood. I usually do this on the edge. Then take a full length shaving down both sides and when you have done this enough, you can just crumple the shavings in your hand and feel which one is heavier.

jim

[Brian Kent]

And Rick, the most important part of this process is that you post pictures of your new plane. With such a nice monster as the LN#8, we will drool in unison.

[Rick Erickson]

Whoops, I just posted pretty much the same suggestion! Sorry, I guess I wasn't paying attention.

Hey Rob, a little confirmation doesn't hurt. :D

[Tri Hoang]

A few things that I learned about dimensioning stock by hand are:

- Don't do unnecessary work - if it does not need to be square/smooth/straight then don't bother.
- It's easier to get it straight when it's hollow.
- No matter how hard I tried, I always seem to plane a little more at both ends so I compensate for that by taking a few strokes in the middle first.
- Winding sticks are a must..even more so than a straight edge. Use them often.
- A flat bench help identify problems in most boards quickly.
- Avoid clamping the board down as much as possible. It teaches me how to balance the plane on a board's edge and it's faster

I hope you'll find something useful. Congrats on the new LN#8, btw. You are a brave man!

[Rick Markham]

Thanks all! I appreciate all of your input! I will post some pics in a bit, just need to get a few minutes to resize them so they will fit! I was a professional chef for the last 13 years, so sharpening is something I am fanatical about, I am going to set up a sharpening station (three sheets of glass and wet dry sandpaper) until I can pick up a couple more stones, I do have a 5000grit wet stone I use for polishing my edge on my kitchen knives, but I would like to get a 1000grit and 8000grit to compliment it. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to use a dull edge on an edge tool. I plan on using a guide and not freehand the plane irons, I can free hand kitchen knives sharp enough to split hairs, but that is a different bird ;). I just ordered a LN 60 1/2 and am looking forward to getting to use it, I think it will help me tremendously. There is something relaxing about doing something without a machine, in peace and quiet. I am addicted already LOL :cool:

[Jim Koepke]

I will post some pics in a bit, just need to get a few minutes to resize them so they will fit!

The software that runs this site will automagically resize the files so they will fit. It is great because it will allow large pictures to still show full size without having to mess with the files before uploading.

jim

[Rick Erickson]

I was a professional chef for the last 13 years, so sharpening is something I am fanatical about

Man, you just got over the biggest hurdle in the Neander world. The rest is gravy (so the chefs say). I think you will love the 60 1/2. You sure did go from one extreme to the other (No. 8 to No. 60 1/2).

[Rick Markham]

Thanks Jim you saved me some time. Here is my LN no.8, it makes me smile, truly a work of art in and of itself. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/Rick357/008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/Rick357/006.jpg

I also wanted to include some photos of a "perfume" box that I made for a Valentine's day present for my girlfriend, this is the most recent project that I have finished.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/Rick357/004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/Rick357/007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/Rick357/IMG_5252.jpg

[Jim Koepke]

That box is fantastic. I just bought a scrap of leopard wood and have been wondering how to use it. Maybe something like that.

jim

[Rick Markham]

Thanks Jim! I appreciate the compliment! I really like the way it turned out, in all honesty it was really hard to give it away but it's just more reason to make more :cool: and she's a keeper (the girlfriend) so it was worth it. I'd personally use the leopard wood for a great visual texture change, makes you want to reach out and feel it, eventhough it's finished silky smooth :D