Hugh Jardon
03-08-2010, 8:34 PM
Guys,
I posted this on the RIDGID forum, but I'd be grateful for any views here too.
I have a RIDGID BS14002, and was unhappy at the vibration. I built a very solid mini-workbench for a stand, as I had read that the stand was a vibration inducer. I changed the belt for a link belt. I've balanced the wheels as best I can, they seem to be a little smoother. I set the pulleys to be co-planar, and the wheels as best I can to be co-planar. I think they're still maybe 1/32 or less out though; the blade rides slightly off center of the crown (though still over the crown, just not centered on it).
I still have some vibration, and it's enough to fail the nickel test (but only just). I have an expectation that it should be possible to adjust the saw so it passes that test, and hence will be able to cut smoothly. At present, it would be on a par with a handheld jigsaw.
With the blade off, the motor now spins the lower wheel without too much vibration, and passes the nickel test. With the blade on, it fails. I was therefore thinking of changing the blade, but then I thought of the Grizzly riser kit, which comes with the longer blade. It would be my medium term desire to put a riser block in, so I may as well bite that bullet at the same time, as long as the consensus view is that the saw is capable of smooth cuts (ie being vibration free/minimized).
Ultimately, I'd expect to be able to make a featherboard, using bandsaw kerfs, and have those kerfs be pretty much as smooth as they would be had I cut them on the table saw, albeit much smaller kerfs. At present, they would be somewhat jagged. It's occurred to me that I may be overambitious though. Am I being realistic in my expectations from this saw, or am I trying to put lipstick on a pig?
I posted this on the RIDGID forum, but I'd be grateful for any views here too.
I have a RIDGID BS14002, and was unhappy at the vibration. I built a very solid mini-workbench for a stand, as I had read that the stand was a vibration inducer. I changed the belt for a link belt. I've balanced the wheels as best I can, they seem to be a little smoother. I set the pulleys to be co-planar, and the wheels as best I can to be co-planar. I think they're still maybe 1/32 or less out though; the blade rides slightly off center of the crown (though still over the crown, just not centered on it).
I still have some vibration, and it's enough to fail the nickel test (but only just). I have an expectation that it should be possible to adjust the saw so it passes that test, and hence will be able to cut smoothly. At present, it would be on a par with a handheld jigsaw.
With the blade off, the motor now spins the lower wheel without too much vibration, and passes the nickel test. With the blade on, it fails. I was therefore thinking of changing the blade, but then I thought of the Grizzly riser kit, which comes with the longer blade. It would be my medium term desire to put a riser block in, so I may as well bite that bullet at the same time, as long as the consensus view is that the saw is capable of smooth cuts (ie being vibration free/minimized).
Ultimately, I'd expect to be able to make a featherboard, using bandsaw kerfs, and have those kerfs be pretty much as smooth as they would be had I cut them on the table saw, albeit much smaller kerfs. At present, they would be somewhat jagged. It's occurred to me that I may be overambitious though. Am I being realistic in my expectations from this saw, or am I trying to put lipstick on a pig?