View Full Version : Landscape timing question

Mike Wilkins
03-08-2010, 4:21 PM
It never fails. Every year I get the Weed & Feed on the yard too late to do any good. Other than feeding the weeds. Anyone out there in sawdust-land know the correct timing for the application of this product?? I live in eastern North Carolina and the grass type is Centipede.
Thanks in advance. Mike who would rather be in the shop than at work.

Chris Padilla
03-08-2010, 4:37 PM
I think you can sign up with an email address (preferably YOURS) at Scotts.com and using your zip code, they will email you when to do such things for your zone.

Pat Germain
03-08-2010, 4:57 PM
I don't recall ever having good results from a "weed & feed" product. I starting using this stuff called "Revive" and it works great. It looks like Ovalteen and it makes the grass grow so well, it chokes out the weeds.

Joe Pelonio
03-08-2010, 5:22 PM
That product acts on the broad leaf weeds, so they need to be there. Here this is the best time, the weeds are starting to pop up so the tender news hoots are most vulnerable to the herbicide. I just did my lawn this weekend, but used a 3-way fertilizer, with weed and moss control. If you do it in fall many of the weeds will be dying off anyway. You may want to repeat during the summer as needed.

Dave Lehnert
03-08-2010, 6:01 PM
Right now (Here in Cincinnati) you should be applying a pre-emergence like Scotts Turf Builder Plus Halts. (Blue Bag) This keeps some weeds from popping up. It is too late to put this on once you see the forsythia bloom.

Most people apply weed and feed wrong. The best time to apply is when the grass is wet but will not see rain in 24 to 48 hrs. The grains need to stick to the wet weed to kill it. The weed killer is actually a weed food. You are just over feeding it to kill it. Weeds are up AFTER the Forsythia bloom.

What I do is just feed the lawn with regular lawn food every 6 weeks. (no weed killer or such) If you use Scotts it is the Green bag. I use Ortho Weed B Gone to take care of the weeds. You get much better coverage that way. I apply it with a hose end sprayer.

I just read the label for the Weed B Gone. The mix in our area IS NOT for Centipede grass. You will have to read the label first but anything sold in your area should be good to use. Just make sure it reads for Centipede

Joe Mioux
03-08-2010, 6:10 PM
Normally, I apply Barricade from Nov-Feb. This is a tip I learned from a Golf Course Chemical salesman. He used to drive past my greenhouses on his way to the two local golf courses.

He told me apply Barricade and Fertilizer around Thanksgiving and then follow up with Milogranite in December. It works great. The barricade gives me the layer of pre-emergence weed germination protection that I want and the Fertilizer and Milogranite gets down in the soil where it belongs well before the grass starts growing.

I am late, but will get it on this week.

FYI, Milogranite is a great product for your lawns.

Ted Calver
03-08-2010, 7:56 PM
My lawn service just applied mine...zone 7b fescue

Ed Hazel
03-08-2010, 8:01 PM
My yard is still covered in snow

Dave Schreib
03-08-2010, 8:31 PM
Still 2 feet of snow on the ground here.

My regimen is to fertilize with milorganite and/or ringers - both of which are organic. I use organic because I think they work better, not because I am trying to save the world. To kill the weeds, I have a 2 gallon sprayer that I put weed b gone into, and I spot spray. If you can, aerate in the spring or fall.

If you are really into your lawn, kill it all and start over with some premium seed from a seed supplier. It's expensive but much better than what you can buy at the BORG or nursery.

Ted Calver
03-08-2010, 9:55 PM
Mike ...Always ask your friendly Extension Service agent.


Lee Schierer
03-09-2010, 11:53 AM
I can't even see my grass, there is still 24-30" of snow on it. Obviously not going to apply weed & feed here this weekend.

Al Wasser
03-09-2010, 2:15 PM
Check with your local county agent or Cooperative Extension Service. They should have all the info you need and it's based on research not what the fertilizer co. whats you to do. I could tell you for Colorado but that is likely little use to you.