Sliding Table–Left Tilt Saw

[Jack Clark]

I've been thinking about getting an aftermarket sliding table for my SawStop PCS.

The SawStop PCS is a left tilt saw.

When cutting bevels on a table saw, it's recommended that the offcut be under the tilted blade. On a left tilt saw, that means the keeper is on the right hand side of the blade.

All of the aftermarket sliding tables I've researched obviously attach to the left hand side of the table saw. Is there a safety issue when using one of these sliding tables to cut bevels with the blade tilted to the left (toward the sliding table)? That is, the keeper would be to the left, and under the blade, and the offcut would be to the right.

Thanks

[Mike Wilkins]

Ever notice that all the Euro sliding tablesaws are right tilt? This is to keep from trapping the workpiece under the spinning blade, causing a potential major kickback situation. Only the waste should be under the spinning blade to create a safe environment. The only tablesaws I have ever owned have been right tilt. I would imagine that you will need to make a fancy sled to go on your machine.
Any other left-tilters out there with an opinion???

[David DeCristoforo]

Just goes to show... there is no such thing as perfection. Left tilt saws have their advantages but a left tilt saw with a left side mounted slider is less than ideal and in many cases, downright dangerous, something which would more or less defeat the point of owning the "world's safest table saw" to begin with. If you must have a slider, you really need to look for a right tilt saw. Too bad more manufacturers don't offer both configurations...

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, a right tilt sliding saw has the same trapping feature when you're using the rip fence, as a standard right tilt cabinet saw does in that situation.

Conversely, a left tilt cabinet saw has the same trapping feature when using a mitre gauge with stop, as a slider add on does when using a crosscut fence and stop. (Assuming you use your miter gauge in the left hand slot).

Unless I am mistaken, most add on sliding tables have a small travel ( not much more than 150cm?) so you probably won't use the slider for ripping bevels.

Regards, Rod.

[Peter Quinn]

I think Griggio and Martin both make sliders that tilt both ways. 45 left, 45 right. Guess nobody told them how dangerous that is? I'd just go for it with the after market slider for square cuts, run a t square or small sled off the other side for the occasional miter, or get a good SCMS. You could always go for it with the miters too, just clamp the stock securely to the slider first or wear a hockey mask and pads.:eek:

[Philip Rodriquez]

I have a ics sawstop
with an Excalibur table. It works like a champ. As with any ts, you just need to pay attention to your cut and be aware where your stock is going to fall off.

[johnny means]

Could someone clarify the danger of a left tilt saw with a sliding attachment? Doesn't seem any more dangerous to me. In fact, I could see how such an arrangement would actually lessen the chance of a kickback drawing ones hands towards the blade.

[Ron Bontz]

On a left tilt saw the cut off from a sliding miter gauge or any miter gauge on the left side of the blade, for that matter is left to bounce around on the top,R side of the blade just waiting for a tooth to catch it and send it to the moon or your face. A right tilt saw same situation would "capture" the cut off under the right side of the blade. A point to remember is that the length of the cut off affects the likely hood of flight as well. Using a miter gauge from the right side of the blade simply reverses the scenario. I do far more ripping on my saw so I prefer a left tilt. I prefer to keep my fingers clear of that hungry tooth. Hope this helps.:)I almost forgot to mention, if your work piece should slip toward the blade you are more likely to get a kick back/ bind. Not to mention a crappy cut.

[mreza Salav]

I used to have a right tilt saw and it was a real pain for most bevel cuts.
First the fence had to move to the left of the blade and it wasn't as accurate as to the right; and more importantly, the smaller size on the left meant I couldn't bevel cut wider pieces.
Now I have a left-title cabinet saw and love it.
Moving the miter gauge to the right (on a left-tilt saw) is much much easier/better than to moving the fence to the left for ripping on a right-tilt saw.
The only draw back I have noticed is when using different blade thicknesses (e.g. thin kerf or a dado blade) the ruler on the fence is messed-up.

[Keith Weber]

I've got a left-tilt cabinet saw with an Exaktor slider and I've never thought of it as being a dangerous combo. The reason I initially got the left tilt was because everyone said that it was safer than a right tilt for cutting bevels.

Say you have a left-tilt saw with no slider, and say you wanted to cut bevels on a 24" square piece of 3/4" ply. You tilt the blade (left, obviously) and run all 4 sides along the fence (which is to the right of the blade). Easy and safe!

So now you add a slider. Yeah, it could create a kickback situation if you were to use that slider to push that 24" square sheet through the tilted blade, but why would you want to use the slider? Just do it old-school and use the fence. Easy and safe!

OK, some will say... what if... your ply sheet is not square, but is rather narrow (say 24" x 6")? Now what? OK -- you cut the 24" bevels old school, using the fence (easy and safe!), and then you cut your 6" bevels the same way that you would before you had the slider -- you either did them on the sliding miter saw, or use the miter gauge on the right side of the blade. Easy and safe!

Adding a slider to a left-tilt saw doesn't make it dangerous. It's really a great combination. You just have to use your head!