Another blank mounting question

[Mike Minto]

I picked-up a nice log at the local dump last week, and this week cut it into 2 bowl blanks and started to turn one. Well, after coming off the lathe (no injury to report) 3 times, I'm getting discouraged. I've used epoxied-on threaded wood faceplates which have sheared in two, twice, held the thing in a chuck with an epoxied on block that has torn asunder; it's getting discouraging. It started about 11" in diameter, and as each 'remount' results in some off-center error, it's getting smaller. Don't know what kind of wood it is (I'll post a pic tonite) but it is still wet and green, HEAVY, with pale white/yellow wood that is dotted with dark speckle-looking pores with relative smooth gray-green bark, and smells kinda pissy when cut. Must I screw a metal faceplate into it, and cover the screw holes when finished? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[John Keeton]

Mike, as you know, my experience with this is really limited! But, I usually use a worm screw to mount the blank, with tailstock support. Then, I will turn a tenon or recess depending on the wood. However, my experience with green wood is very limited.

My thought would be to mount the blank with a metal faceplate to the top portion of the blank (to be hollowed portion), support with the tailstock, and then turn a tenon/recess, and generally shape the exterior of the bowl. If you use a recess, you will want to leave a lot of meat around the recess!

[Gary Chester]

I would guess that trying to get glue to stick to wet wood is your problem. Try ditching the glue blocks.

I'm with John, worm screw with tail stock support and turn a tenon on the tailstock side. Turn it around with the tenon in the chuck and bring up the tailstock again.

[Paul Atkins]

What John says. You can screw the blank to the faceplate with the bottom side out so the holes will be cut out in the second mounting. A tailstock support is good till things get balanced out. Some of my blanks have a spud sticking out into the bowl so I can return using the tailstock. Wet wood just doesn't glue very well except with CA. Even then it is a bit dicey. I rough out my blanks and let them dry a bit even if I am in a hurry. I only have regular 3 and 4 jaw chucks and don't use them for wet wood as it just too slippery and compresses too much. I use hot glue for mounting blanks either to blocks or to wooden faceplates. I has good shear strength but will pop right off with a prying force.

[bob svoboda]

I think John is right on. I like to turn a tenon to mount in a scroll chuck and hollow out the screw holes left from the face plate. Whether you use a face plate or screw chuck, tail stock support is a very good idea.

[Scott Hackler]

Good advise so far. I can comment as I primarily rough out green wood and finish after they dry. For me its as easy as mounting a faceplate on the "top" of the bowl blank or what ever its gonna end up being and (sometimes with tailstock support) turning the rough outside shape and the tenon. Off with the face plate and flip it over mounting the tenon in a chuck.

Trying to mount a wood face plate on green wood seems to be a difficult thing concidering the water content and shear weight of the wood. If you dont have a chuck yet, buy one. It is hands down one of the most important things I have for turning.

I have used a worm screw a few times but dont feel real comfortable with the security of the connection. Heck I have even put the spur drive in the chuck and pressure fit the tail stock up to the wood, just long enough to turn a tenon. Spur drives dont seem to hold still very good on green wood.

To John: For the quality of work you seem to be doing with the dry wood, you should concider getting into roughing out the green stuff. Its cheaper (free a lot of times) and easier to find those select chunks of wood (ie, burl, crotch and large blanks). Plus green wood is 1000% more fun to turn than dry wood!

[Mike Minto]

thanks for coming back on this, guys. as i said, this wood is the hardest - and i mean HARD - (even though it's still green) stuff i've ever tried to turn, and i'm not sure what it is - will post a pic tonite and ask for ID opinions. i'll probably go with a screwed-in metal faceplate at the base, that should work; i just hate the screw holes, but i'll deal with them, as the blank is still good sized and I don't want it to get any smaller :p. the glue (epoxy) never did separate from the wood faceplate/blank connection - the wood faceplates tore in half, mid-faceplate. this is wearing my 5/8" bowl gouge out!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Mike have you started hollowing the bowl portion yet? As was suggest by Bob and others I would screw my faceplate on what will be the bowl portion or top side. With the tailstock up for support I cut a tenon on the back side to fit my chuck. Reverse and put into a chuck then finish roughing. One thing if you do screw the faceplate where the foot will be, don't forget that those screws will be there when you hollow out the bowl. Don't ask me how I know this.:mad: For me I don't use glues with mounting blocks. I have used all kinds of glues from Titebond II to CA on green, wet wood and just haven't had any luck with holding power. Now on kiln dried wood it works pretty good.

[Steve Vaughan]

Don't get too discouraged about the blank getting smaller. We've probably all appreciated comments from folks about a small bowl we've made...if only they had a clue as to how large a bowl it was suppose to be! LOL! Hang in there friend!

[Mike Minto]

bernie, yes, i've managed to hollow the bowl out some - the inside has proven to be harder to turn than the outside! i'll keep the screws in mind - do you change them out and use shorter ones as you get closer to the bottom of the bowl? and again, the glue has not failed me - the wood blocks i was using were failing - it would have been easier to fix if the glue had released - each time the blocks rip, i have to figure out some innovative way to remount the blank, 'true' the bottom (again) and go from there :(.

[Paul Atkins]

What are you using for faceplate material? Maple, beech, cherry or another closed grain hardwood should be strong enough not to split out. Baltic birch works too.

[Mike Minto]

paul, admittedly, some incorrect wood (spanish cedar or mahogany - ok for small, light pieces but not this monster), as well as a piece of oak. i'll have to try the baltic birch, as i just got a couple of sheets from WC due to the recent free shipping offer - a couple of pieces glued up ok?