PDA

View Full Version : How do I guide this cut?



Nathan Hoffman
11-03-2004, 3:43 PM
This may be simple to some of you, but I need help! :o

The following 2 pictures hopefully show what I'm talking about. I am making some window trim with a bead along the edge, and I want to wrap the bead on the ends of the piece under the window stool. How can I cut the miter on the piece to fit the "returned" piece in easily? Thanks.

Hal Flynt
11-03-2004, 4:01 PM
If it's a tool question, I would use "miter saw". CMS or miter block and backsaw (or Japanese saw).

Sparky Paessler
11-03-2004, 4:13 PM
I usually make the bottom bead a seperate piece. That way I just miter the ends. If you don't want to do that you will have to make the cuts with a handsaw or Bandsaw.

Jim Becker
11-03-2004, 9:51 PM
I always use a sled on the TS for this kind of thing. Cut the miter first and then "sneak up" on the length. I would do the returns first and then fit the front piece...cutting it long and nibbling the miter until it was "perfect".

Dino Makropoulos
11-03-2004, 10:18 PM
This may be simple to some of you, but I need help! :o

The following 2 pictures hopefully show what I'm talking about. I am making some window trim with a bead along the edge, and I want to wrap the bead on the ends of the piece under the window stool. How can I cut the miter on the piece to fit the "returned" piece in easily? Thanks.

The EZ way is to cut the miter
and put the edge of the miter against the wall.
Then mark the straight cut ..and cut.
We call it reverse cut. and this technique is the fastest and safest.
Every time you don't use a tape measure your cut is better.


You can apply the same technique on ALL trim and fit jobs.
Doors and windows. Cut the miter first,hold the trim upside down and mark.
Fillers for cabinets. Hold the filler with the back side in front of the cabinet and the finish edge against the wall.
Even panels , ceramic tiles ,drop ceiling tiles etc etc.


good luck

Mike Cutler
11-04-2004, 6:53 AM
Nathan. I don't know if this will help, but here goes. The miter in the picture you have attached is 45deg. ergo the section of the material that is mitered is an equalateral triangle ASA & SAS of both pieces are equal, or the opposite and the adjacent are equal. measure the width of the window trim and add the thickness of the material( bead ) to this meaurement and set your saw up accordingly.If the material overlaps the window trim the width of the overlap is subtracted from the addition of the material width to move the point of intersection back.
All that being said tho' I'd do it like everyone else suggested, mark it a little long and sneak up on it, cause you would just about need a vernier to use my method

Nathan Hoffman
11-04-2004, 10:22 AM
Thanks for all of the sugestions. I made one sample piece with a hand saw (I don't have a BS yet), and it didn't come out too well, so maybe I will make the bead a seperate piece all the way around.

Thanks!

Mac McAtee
11-04-2004, 11:58 AM
You could make a little jig for a block plane to cut the 45. Cut the piece a little over long with a hand saw and then trim it to exact fit on the jig with a block plane. That is how it was done for hundreds of years before a bandsaw was thought of.