Epilog Manual Focus tool

[David Sacks]

OK, I did it.. I lost the Manual Focus tool.. How do I focus without it? - I assume the only way it to order a new one from Epilog?
Thanks
David

[laura passek]

you could use the auto focus, not ideal for all applications but will do for most.

[Jim Coffee]

To help you from losing it next time...a storage hint...turn it upside down on the same pins. Leave it on the head.

[Kim Vellore]

I manually focus and never use the provided tool I use a small steel ruler I have it marked to my focal length. My focal length is from the object to the bottom of the lens bracket. I hold the ruler next to the lens touching the side of the lens holder and focus. it is easy to de foucs to the exact distance if I need to. I find it much easier to do this than to use the tool.

Kim

[Harlan Kilbourn]

David,

I have created a group of squares cut out of Baltic Birch or Acrylic that are used set to the focus depth for different jobs. (Matte board or any stiff material will work.) The squares are dimensioned to line up with the top of focus tool support bracket. You can quickly focus for normal operation and then change focus for setting the beam to cut below the material surface or for a darking or smoothing pass by using a different focus tool.

The focus depth setting tools are now stored in your cut file. Each focus tool can be labeled at time of creation and they can be recut when you lose the new tool. (Unless you lose the file - :rolleyes: yes it was only on the flash drive that disappeared.) Cut a hole in them and store on a wire or key chain.

Harlan

[Jack Burton]

Just a "Heads Up" the focal length on the ULS lasers are a set...the lens and the focal tool, which are calibrated at the factory, there is a way to calibrate a replacement tool....not sure if your epilog is the same just wanted to inform you in case it is!

[Rob Bosworth]

David, if you put a piece of anodized aluminum into the engraving area. Then send a black filled rectangle over to the machine at the recommended speed and power settings from your manual. Hit start and let themachine start engraving. Then move your table up and down until you see the brightest "spark" coming off the engraving of the anodized aluminum. That is your focal point. Then move your "head" over to that area and figure that is your true focus point. Then either with a ruler, a "guage" block, figure out the measurement. Then all you have to do is measure the distance between the bottom of the lens and the top of the anodized aluminum.

[Kim Vellore]

When I tried the focusing using the anodized aluminum my eyes adjust to brightness constantly and it is so bright it is kind of difficult to get the last few steps to the exact focal point. And I get a headache after that. I should try with some dark welders glasses next time to see if that is better.
Kim

[Dan Hintz]

Judging by brightness is not a good way to measure focal distance. Place the aluminum sheet at an angle on the table... a 6" strip held up at one end by a 1/2" block is perfect. Lower the table so it's about 1/4" lower than what you think the focus should be and engrave a line down the length of the table.

If your focus is correct, the cleanest line will be right in the middle of the strip. If its not, measure the distance to the cleanest point and use a bit of trigonometry to determine where the focus point should be. Reset the table to 1/4" below expected focus and run the test again. If it's in the middle, you're golden... if not, you either calculated wrong or something shifted.

The test should not take more than 2 tries (one to test, one to verify) unless something failed, and should take no longer than about 2 minutes.

[Kim Vellore]

Adding to Dan's Idea one could draw parallel lines along the slope and the one that is the sharpest will be the closest to the focal length. Attached is a drawing to give an idea.

Kim

[AL Ursich]

Now that is a idea I have never seen.... I am going to make me one.....

Thanks !!!! :D

AL

[Rob Bosworth]

Oh you are right Dan. Trig is so much easier to use than bright!

[Dan Hintz]

Rob,

The point being focusing by checking the brightness is subject to interpretation and imprecise in the best of terms.

And if the math is too troubling, all you have to do is ask...

[David Sacks]

Thanks for all the comments - I will find the best focus point and make a "block"...
Thanks again!
David

[David Fairfield]

I really like Jim's idea about flipping the focus gauge upside down and putting it back on the laser head. Totally never occurred to me! :o

However I'm going to keep hanging it on a peg behind the laser. I'm concerned that the extra mass of the focus gauge attached to the laser head as it whips back and forth is going to add wear to the belt and motor.

Once I got into the habit of always hanging it on the same peg I stopped losing it. Well, mostly. :rolleyes:

Dave

[Michael Hunter]

Mine lives in a little holder attached to the top of the X-beam : I recon that the extra mass there won't hurt.

The holder got made after a whole week of repeatedly searching for the gauge - which finally reappeared on the table next to the laser (can it really have been there all along???).

[Bill Cunningham]

I'm totally amazed that I have had this laser for 6 years, and I 'still' have the focus tool.. If you seen my shop, you would be amazed too..:D I keep mine on the front of the machine with 1/4" a rare earth magnet.. Once in a while I will absent mindedly lay it on the table beside the machine then curse myself when I can't find it, but the shop gremlin always seems to bring it back!

[Scott Shepherd]

David, I thought I had one of these but I had no idea where it was, as we moved and it got packed away. I was just looking for something else and opened the box it was in. If you still need one, send me your mailing address and I'll drop it in the mail some time this week.

Thanks-
Steve

[Bob Davis]

On examining my Helix focus tool one day I realised that it's adjustable over a range of around 5mm by means of a couple of screws.
This seems a bit strange as merely dropping it can easily put it out of adjustment, and surely a rigid tool would be faster, easier and cheaper to make.
Perhaps each tool is individually tuned to a particular lens? If so you would need a new focus tool anytime you got a new lens. And what about autofocus?
Mine seems to be spot-on right in the middle of the adjustment range, and also matches up with autofocus.