Another nuttier butter peanut butter Pocket screw question.

[Bart Leetch]

Since I've never use pocket screws before what length should I get to do 3/4" face frame material? :) Thanks

[Ralph Barhorst]

1-1/4" is recommended

Fine thread for hardwood
Course thread for softwood

[Chris Padilla]

Kreg agrees with Ralph but it also depends on what you use to create the pocket hole in the first place.

If you use the Kreg jig, then Ralph has it. If you use someone else's jig, it could be different. If you mess up the alignment/placement of the jig, it could also be different. :)

[John Gregory]

Bart,
Once you start using pocket screws, you will be a convert. They are a handy little invention

[Keith Christopher]

I bought the smaller Kreg jig a while back and I have to agree ! for face frames I am all about the pocket joints !

[Clint deal]

I use the 1 1/4 with my Porter cable machine. I don't remember the model# but it's the tabletop machine. Works real nice, can pop out a face frame in a couple minutes. It uses a 690 router motor to cut the hole then a lamenate trimmer to predrill the screw hole. Bad thing was, after I bought it and seen how it worked I think you could make one real easy. Here's the one I have.

http://www.porter-cable.com/index.asp?e=547&p=2854

Clint

[brent lenthall]

I can tell you that 2" will go right through the front (while hurrying a glue up today I missed a stray 2"). I recently upgraded from the single Kreg to the pocket rocket. Go figure, it's twice as fast.

Also, I picked up a cheap HF variable speed drill to dedicate to drilling pocket holes. I couldn't believe how much better a corded drill worked for this task. For cabinets, I couldn't imagine not using pocket screws. Have fun!

brent

[Greg Heppeard]

I use 1 1/4 screws for 3/4 material....fine thread for hard woods and coarse thread for softer woods. There were a couple of times I used the 1 1/2 screws and socked them in a little hard...the points popped out the face of the project.

[Mathew Nedeljko]

Couldn't agree more. I love the Kreg jig especially for cabinets and face frames. I use a 3/8 corded drill to make the pocket holes, and a 9V cordless Dewalt with the clutch set to about 8 to drive the screws.

[Chris Padilla]

Matt,

EXCELLENT point about the drill. You must have a clutch in order to avoid overdriving the screws and stripping out the threads in the wood. In fact, if I have the time (and I do being a hobbyist), I like to hand tighten the final quarter turn or so.

Another tip in cutting the pocket holes, get the drill up to full speed and then ram it into the jig/wood. You'll have less chance of breaking the sucker...also a good reason to get a spare while you are at it. :)

[Dale Thompson]

Bart,
The information above is all good! I even use pocket holes for "glue ups". My doweling jigs are gone and my beautiful DeWalt Biscuit Cutter is only used when visibility is a significant concern. :cool: :)

Dale T.