Bandsaw question

[Johnnyy Johnson]

I have a 14" Jet Band Saw that I modified and put a 2 HP motor on it. It saws great on 1" boards laying flat. I have a 1/2" Woodslicer 3 to 4.(brand new) I know the saw is set up correct and has Carter bearings. The blade tension with the guide set up for resawing 7" maple moves 1/4" to one side.

When I saw at a fast speed it cuts straight up and down for about 5 " and the goes extreme Convex or belly. When I go very slow it does the same thing. A called a very experienced friend and he thinks that the 1/2" thin kerf blade I am using can not handle that size board and I should use a 3/4" 3T. I'm very open for any suggestions.

[Harlan Coverdale]

Have you tried using the flutter method for tensioning the blade instead of the 1/4" deflection? The Woodslicer seems to do better at lower tension than some might think is "right".

As far as the 1/2" thin kerf blade being able to handle 7" maple, I respectfully disagree with your friend. At least that's been my experience with that blade on my 14" bandsaw.

[Myk Rian]

You don't say how you tension thew blade, but try the flutter method to do it.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

MYK..I set the guide just above the board height. Then tighten until the blade will just push to one side a 1/4".

[John Coloccia]

Tension and/or tracking, assuming that your guides are setup right. I guess the teeth could be set lopsided too, but I doubt that.

Are you using a fence? Have you tried freehand to see what kind of drift angle you're getting? For what it's worth, I'm now sick and tired of continually tuning my saw to resaw straight every dang time I switch blades, so I do ALL my resawing freehand now, which is a departure for me. It's SOOO much easier, though.

Minimally as step one, if you haven't already done this, is saw freehand and check the drift, If you're not compensating for drift, the blade will twist in the kerf and you probably will get a bowed cut, or at a minimum an angled cut. Mine usually come out bowed, though, presumably because the blade can deflect more in the center than near the guides.

Part of how you fix drift is tension and tracking, by the way.

[Pete Bradley]

I'm not sure what you mean by "The blade tension with the guide set up for resawing 7" maple moves 1/4" to one side." but I don't know that it matters. What you're describing is almost always tension or dull teeth. You sure you didn't catch some metal or some dirt with this band? More band isn't likely to help (though a new band might). You should be able to resaw a lot taller dead straight with a 3/8" band.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

I just read a PDF on how to set tension by the flutter method. It is alot of trouble, but if it will help I can do that. I'll check it out tonight.

John, I had a woodslicer 1/2" 3 to 4, that had major drift. After trying everything I called and sent it back. They sent me a new blade. I put it on and changed nothing on the setup. I set the tension like stated above and took a 1" pc of pine and it sawed straight. The next day is when I tried to resaw the maple. When you say you free hand, do you mean you prep the board on the jointer and then draw a line on the edge to follow? Do you use a fence that has the stand off in the middle to pivot off of to free hand?

[John Coloccia]

I scribe a line down the center, maybe follow it with pencil if it's hard to see, and follow it free hand. No fence, no guides...just a well prepared board that's nice and straight. It's much easier than I had imagined. I would at least try that and get an idea of how the saw's cutting before adjusting anything. Once you know what's up, you can make adjustments and keep testing until your happy. Then you'll have a fighting chance at resawing hardwoods.

I'm thinking of picking up a magfence. It would be nice that once I nail the drift angle, I could just lock a fence in place and push The magfence is ideal for this.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

I called Highland and the tech support guided me to their online library. After reading the part that addresses my problem I think I got a handle on it. John..I like how you are resawing and will try your suggestions.
Here is the link to their library.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodworking-tips-library.aspx

As to the above question about what I meaning about the guide for the 7" maple, I was trying to give you an idea os how high the guilds were above the table.

Thanks
JJ

[Jeff Duncan]

The blade size is not the problem, I use a 1/2" blade on my 20" Delta and mostly re-saw maple and oak without issue. Using a larger blade is going to be pushing your saw to its limit and won't help resolve your problem.
Are you using a fence to re-saw, if so that may be part of your problem. When you said you installed a new blade without changing anything and it cuts straight, it makes me think your trying to cut without setting the fence to the blade. Now you may get lucky and get a blade that cuts perfectly straight, but most of the blades I've used had a tendency to drift one way or the other. You cannot re-saw using a fence without adjusting for the drift of the blade.
I wouldn't bother testing a blade in pine unless that's what you'll be cutting most often. You could probably install the blade backwards and still cut through 1" pine. (Well assuming it's one of the more common softer pines anyway). Draw a line down the edge of a piece of maple, then push it freehand through the blade until you get a good 8"-12" though. Hold the board in place shut off the saw and set your fence to the angle the board is at. That will insure your cutting straight, if you still have a problem then tension is the next thing to look at. To be honest I use the "crank it and use it" method, I start cutting with the tension set per saw gauge, then I usually give it a little extra and watch my results. Haven't ever had too much trouble with the tension, it's always the drift that messes with me.
good luck,
JeffD

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Thanks for all the good help, I'll take all these good suggestions and put them to work. The first thing I need to do is get the drift set and go from there. The positive thing here is I know so much more about my saw now and I guess it was worth the struggle to learn

Thanks
JJ

[Prashun Patel]

IMHO,

I get this when using a dull blade mostly.

A distant second reason is blade tension. If you're not using the flutter, chances are you're overtensioned if anything. If you were undertensioned, you'd see the blade wobbling or hear it singing. The only thing flutter does is prevent overtensioning. The only downside I can see with overtensioning is that the blade life might be reduced a little. I had one snap - but it was a cheap blade to begin with.

The blade TPI might be an issue, if yr using something higher than 6TPI.

As for the blade width, I highly suggest you stick with 1/2" on yr 14" saw. On mine, I'm just not able to get enough tension to work 3/4" blades properly. I cut 6" walnut with zero lean on a 1/2" blade just fine.

[Myk Rian]

The flutter method:

Bring the guide bar all the way up.
Adjust all guides away from the blade.

Loosen the blade till it starts to flutter. You will notice it easily.
Tighten 1/4 turn at a time till the flutter is gone. Tighten 1/4 turn and leave it.

[Lee Schierer]

Most 14" saws cannot properly tension a 3/4" blade from what I've read, at least not with the stock tension spring. I use a curved resaw guide and scribed line to stay on track when I resaw. I've cut 6" boards on my Delta with no problems. I find I have to tension significantly more than the "cast" tension marks on the tension adjust spring to eliminate bowing. My next blade will be a woodslicer even though it costs more than other blades, I've been impressed with the quality of cuts someone recently displayed..

[Howard Acheson]

According to Mark Duginske, a "barrel" cut is almost always the result of not having enough tension on the blade.

I also know of some folks who have problems with the Woodslicer blade. What resaw blade did you use before you got the Woodslicer?

[Bill White]

Think ya got enough horsepower there Butch??;)
I use a 1/2" Woodslicer on my 11" Magna 1/2 HP bandsaw with no sweat on 4"-5" resawing. I use a fence.
Bill

[Kent A Bathurst]

Think ya got enough horsepower there Butch??;)

LOL. spit out my coffee.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Bill...My wood shop has set idle for several years. Several years back I swapped to the 2HP because I got access to some Oak, and Hickory. All green from a saw mill. When I would get them they were 4X6's that were heart wood and was being sent to a fork lift pallet shop for fabrication. I was sawing green lumber and needed more power. Back then I used a 3/4 Timber Wolf 3T. Worked OK...Dried in a solar Kiln. I stopped when they built a wood kiln. Now I just buy from them. Everything's a $1.50 per BF.

Thanks
JJ

[Chip Lindley]

Johnnyy, your last post puzzles me! IF it worked for you then, with a 3/4" 3 tpi Timberwolf, why does it not work now? DO what you did THEN to set up your BS. (assuming it's the same saw) If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

But, if your shop has set idle for several years, the tensioning spring on your BS may have lost strength. What shows as the right tension may not be at all. It is really hard (read: impossible) to over-tension a 1/2" or 3/4" band on a 14" saw. I made an aluminum riser block on my Delta 14", between frame and tensioning shaft, to give it extra travel and more tension.

[William Falberg]

I have a 14" Jet Band Saw ................................ I'm very open for any suggestions.

There's a whole lot of little questions all wrapped up in that one big question Johnnyy and bumper-sticker answers aren't likely to help
you solve your over-all cutting solution procedures.

I finally finished my book and it answers the bigger questions in a manner that will get you through the next set-up, and the next..........

My webmaster is still working on the credit card automation stuff to up-load from my website but you can order a PDF or the (signed) hardcopy from me. I'm printing my own hardcopies for now on photo paper with ring bindings and they're pretty cool for laying out flat and the graphics are better than the PDF version. We'll have "professionally printed" copies in a week or two, so maybe I can do a couple more edits before I commit to thousands of copies. Check it out at falbergsawz.com

[Van Huskey]

Check it out at falbergsawz.com


I am just letting you know there is an 800lb BS with carbide teeth slinkiing out of my garage headed to CO. It took offence to your book title and it is coming for you, just a warning 'cause I can't stop it. :D

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Update..
I loosened my fence adjustments and moved the fence as far as it would go to the left and right and made marks. I set the fence in the middle and made a cut. No change. Still bellied to the right. Then I moved it to the far left and after cut there was no change. Moved to far right and no change. Next I took the carter guides off and set the tension by the flutter method. Put guides back on and the deflection in one direction was 1/4". Same as when I set it my way. Made cuts with different fence settings and no change. Made a cut free hand and that made a difference but I'm not happy with that method. Guess I will go back to the Timberwolf 1/2" 3T. I dont have this problem with it. Also, remember this WS blade is the new replacement for the one I sent back. Tomorrow I will post a picture of the saw so you can see how I have the fence and how I installed the 2HP motor. The WS may be the best blade there is..it just will not work on my saw. It cuts a much smother cut then the TW. I'll post some pics of the cuts I made. Maybe a new set of eyes can spot the problem because I really would like for the WS to work.

Thanks
Johnny

[Myk Rian]

Adjusting the fence all the way to the right and left is not what you were told to do.

Take a piece of 1x4 scrap. Draw a straight line down one edge. Place that edge up on the saw table and adjust the saw to re-saw that piece. Do not use the fence.

Re-saw the piece for several inches, keeping to the line. Hold the piece steady and turn the saw off. The angle the wood is on, is the angle you adjust the fence to.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

MYK...Thanks, I understand what your instructions were, but I wanted to cut to the chase and see if any adjustment would change anything. It did not. However, tonight I will give it one more try with your method before taking the blade off. Thanks

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Myk...I set up the saw one more time and did as you suggested. Alot of the bow can out but the Jet fence did not have enough adj. to even come close to working out. I repeated the setup on my old Timberwolf and got it almost right. I ran out of time, but I can finally get it dialed in. As much as I would like for the WS blade to work on my saw, it's just not going to. Thanks everyone for all the help, I learned alot.Here are some pics of the saw and cuts.

Thanks
Johnny

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Sorry...just learning on uploading pics

[Johnnyy Johnson]

one more of the motor