How do you join long runs of molding?

[Eric Gustafson]

I am curious what the accepted practice is for joining shorter lengths of hardwood molding to fit long runs. Suggestions?

[John Harden]

For paint grade work, I'd just use finger joints. For molding that will have a clear finish, I'd use a scarf joint, just as you would for crown molding, etc.

Regards,

John

[Peter Koutsovitis]

Use a scarf joint and make sure you glue the joint very, very well.

[Van Huskey]

Use a scarf joint and make sure you glue the joint very, very well.


Agreed, the best way to go.

[David Werkheiser]

I scarf cut and do a biscuit joint indexing off the back side, cutting a #20 slot but inserting a #10 biscuit (due to the inside miter cut). I will further add a glued and screwed strip of 1/2" ply on the back side. Gone back to job sites 5 yrs later and joint is still tight.
David Werkheiser

[glenn bradley]

+1 on scarf. I extended some of my cleat wall system cleats this way and no failures despite many moves of fixtures.

[Peter Quinn]

A long scarf joint can be nearly invisible. You can make a jig for a SCMS to basically hold the miters at 20 degrees off of 90, like a large plywood sine block. I imagine the same could work on the TS with the right sled. It gives a good glue joint that can be clamped or pinned. For paint grade work we run long lengths. How short are you talking? Too many shorts in stain grade can give a pretty choppy look. Much more than one or two joints in 20' is pushing it.

Not sure if that was clear, but basically I'm talking about cutting a 70-80 degree miter like a shipscarf.

[Glen Butler]

Ok, "scarf joint" is a new term. Please explain.

[Dave Falkenstein]

Ok, "scarf joint" is a new term. Please explain.

Here's a decent description:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scarf_joint

[Doug Hobkirk]

Ok, "scarf joint" is a new term. Please explain.
Link #1 by Google is http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scarf_joint

[tim weidman]

ditto on the scarf joint. just made a piece to go on floor between kitchen and living room in the house my brother just flipped and except for the slight grain difference you could hardly tell it was 2 pieces. came out better than i expected if i say so myself! ;)

[Leo Graywacz]

Biscuit and glue, clamp and sand.

If you are on site, scarf joint with glue on a stud.

[Paul Greathouse]

ditto on the scarf joint. just made a piece to go on floor between kitchen and living room in the house my brother just flipped and except for the slight grain difference you could hardly tell it was 2 pieces. came out better than i expected if i say so myself! ;)

There's a term I haven't heard in a while (flipped house). I thought the bad economy killed all that action.

[Glen Butler]

Oh I use that joint all the time. Didn't know it had a name. Thanks.

[Aaron Wingert]

Be sure to take the time to glue the scarf joint!

I take it a step further when running crown molding and install an angled backer (8 or 10" long more or less) that sits against the back of the crown at the joint. I glue the crown to the wood backer and I also use three or four pin nails from my pinner right through the scarf joint to keep it perfectly positioned.

[Quinn McCarthy]

I have used finger joints on stain grade moulding. It was an alder run I had to do and could only get 8' boards at the time. It worked great. Obkiously you could see the joint but they wanted longer boards.

Quinn

[frank shic]

just cut both ends perpendicular and butt the edges together.

[Eric Gustafson]

How short are you talking? Too many shorts in stain grade can give a pretty choppy look. Much more than one or two joints in 20' is pushing it.

That is about right. Getting raw material over 10' in this neck of the woods, is nearly impossible. Wasn't thinking paint grade, since a finger joint is usually used there.
Thanks for all the input. It is nice to know the joint is almost invisible. I wouldn't have expected that.