Daddy Why - Daddy What

[Nick Mastropietro]

Being new to turning reminds me of a bygone time when my children's favorite words were "Why" & "What" and how very difficult it was to resist the standard response "Because I said so". For the record, I feel I did a better than fair job at resisting. Well guess who I feel like now - yep you got it - a child and I'm ok with that I just need to grow up into my new hobby. So here goes - My intention is to begin the learning experience by turning spindles, with this in mind, what is the correct set up for installing the blank in the lathe? My guess is live center on the tailstock and spur center on the headstock. Some have mentioned using Steb centers - both ends? one end? with a chuck or without etc? I would like to know the options and why one is perfered over another in a certain circumstance.

[Don Orr]

Nick-you are on the right track with your first impression. Use what you have-spur drive in the head and revolving center in the tail. Seat the spur center into the wood OFF the lathe by hitting it with a wood mallet (a good project by the way !) to get the spurs into the wood a little. This is referred to as turning between centers for obvious reasons. Have fun, but be careful.

We all started at the beginning so we can relate to the questions. Keep em coming. Happy to help.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Nick - questions are why we are here - so ask away!

I find the way I mount the spindle has a lot to do with what it is I want to turn. If I am turning a candle holder - then I like to start off between centers - meaning live center in the tailstock and the spur or Steb center in the headstock. I then turn a tenon on the tailstock end and remount the spindle so that the chuck is now holding the piece. I have had spindles go airborne on me when between centers - but never when using a chuck to hold one end.

Have fun with it! Looking forward to seeing what you turn!

[steven carter]

Nick,

You've gotten some good advice so far, the only think I would add is to be sure that the wood you turn is solid, and keep the tailstock firmly against the wood. When you first start turning it can be enticing to put almost anything between centers and have a go at it. If the wood is not solid where the spur/steb center and live centers go, it can get messy in a hurry, DAMHIKT. Be safe, and have fun.

Steve

[Bob Hampton]

Hi Nick
I agree with steve...ask away..its the only way to learn something.
The only thing i wood add is to get a center finder..a plastic guage that will help u find the center on the spindel piece even if its square..sure helps me alot .

Find the center of the piece on both ends...after u decide what end is going on the spur end then take the spur drive and line it up with tip in the center ..give it a few hard but gentle hit with a wood mallet to "set" it ...install the spur in the headstock and line up the marks then line up the center at the tailstock....snug it up and ur ready to turn.....have fun

[Nick Mastropietro]

In my internet travels I came across these two centers, one intended to be mounted in the tailstock and the other in a chuck, ever a time you would use both together?

[Paul Atkins]

If I had both, I'd use them all the time. I have home built ones that match sizes and I can flip a piece around and have it centered exactly.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Nick - I may be wrong but sure looks to me like both of the centers pictured are for use as drive centers. The one on the left goes in you chuck. The one on the right goes in the morse taper of your headstock and is the way I use my Steb center.

[Nick Mastropietro]

Thanks for clearing that up. I just assumed, (and you may know what is said about that word) because it had a morse taper that it was intended for the tailstock.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Nick I use both of what you have shown. I like them better that the 4 prong drive centers which I do use on occasions.

[Dick Sowa]

There are lots of ways to mount a blank. One problem with really small dia stock, is the risk of it splitting while getting ready to turn.

After marking the drive end with cheapo plastic center finder, I clamp the spindle in my vise, and saw a couple of shallow kerfs, at 90 deg to each other, in the end where the 4 prong drive center will go. Rather than hoping it seats properly with just a mallet, the kerfs make sure the prongs dig deep enough to not slip, and will avoid splitting the blank.

Also, rather than using a pointed live center in the tail stock, I occasionally use a fixed cup center, or a live cup center. It's what folks used for centuries, and as you crank down on the tail stock, there's little risk of splitting.

[Roger Chandler]

Steve Schlumpf is correct! both those pictured are for the headstock and not the tailstock. They drive [power] the piece being turned, and you should always put a live [revolving center] in the tailstock.

Good luck as you begin your journey into the woodturning wilderness! :)

[Tom Steyer]

Nick,

I would recommend that you consider using a Steb-type center at the headstock - either a Morse taper style or chuck style is fine, but you might find more room to work with the slimmer Morse taper version. While you are learning, you will have some catches - it's inevitable. If you start off with somewhat light pressure between centers then the steb center will tend to slip if you get a catch. Re-thghten the tailstock a little and start again. You can increase the pressure as you gain confidence. Also, start off with fairly small diameter blanks, 1.5" x 1.5" for example until you get comfortable. The Sorby Steb centers are very nice, but PSI has a decent one for a substantially lower price. My 2-cent piece of advice.