Setting up chuck mount

[Dave Haughs]

Forgive my ignorance here on the proper terms, which is probably why I can't find the answer. I've only turned one bowl and it was supervised.

For my birthday my wife bought me a Rikon Mini Lathe. :D So I have jumped in head first now. I've got a few turning tools and I've been working on my sharpening skills.

So yesterday I picked up a Nova chuck, I turned down a block of wood to mount in it, but I am sure there are better ways than the way I did it. I'm curious what tool(s) do you use to get the base setup for a chuck like that?

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That's the shape I am talking about or something similar.

[mike holden]

Dave,
I start by putting the screw lead into the side of the blank that will be the inside of the bowl. turn the outside of the bowl and turn a base that will fit the chuck. Reverse the bowl and turn the inside.
You could also glue a waste block on the outside of the blank to form a spigot for the chuck to grab, but then you either have to jam chuck or donut chuck or .. to turn off the spigot.
Welcome to the club! Turning is a lot of fun!
Mike

[Brian Greb]

There are two ways to mount to the jaws on your chuck. One is compression and the other is expansion. You start off the same way for both, but there are a few methods I can think of.

option #1:
Dill a hole for your screw center(it came with your SN2) drive the screw center in to the blank. now rough the blank round and true up the bottom. Now you can either make a dovetailed recess or a tenon. Teknatool makes a dovetail scraper that matches the jaws in the chuck(my local woodcraft stocks them model: LL-6008 for around 30 bucks) you'd use this to do the recess/mortise. You can also achieve the mortise with a modified grind on a parting tool.

Option #2:
You can rough the blank round between centers and form the tenon on the bottom that way. I only recommend this on denser woods as the spur dive can drill in to soft woods if you get a catch, I'd also steer clear of between centers if the blank as defects(knots or bark inclusions).

Option #3:
Turn a tenon on a 1" thick X 3"diam blank put it in your chuck and turn the face flat. Now you can attach this piece to your blank(centered) with turners tape or hot glue(that way you can reuse it) or CA for a sacrificial block.

Option #4:
Attach a face plate I use this on larger heavier blanks then rough round and put your tenon or mortise in the face then mount on you 4 jaw.

The benefit to a mortise is that when finished with the bowl you don't have to reverse it to turn the bottom. As for the tenon you have to reverse it using some kind of reversing chuck for example cole jaws, jam chuck, or the blue tape and hot glue method.

Hope this helps.:)

[Dave Haughs]

Thank you both. That really helps!

[Eric Kosanovich]

Bryan,
Nice thanks for the info it also helped me but i have one more question to add to Dave's.
when i install my chuck i seem to have a slight "wabble" well its not really a wabble it's more up and down like the threads are off center maybe the way the chuck seats on the threads.

Thanks Eric

[Allen Neighbors]

Eric, I don't know what sort of chuck you have, but on my SN2s, I didn't screw the insert in all the way (thought I had it tight but didn't), and it wobbled a little (that wobble is called run-out). I put the chuck over a 1/2 thick piece of metal in my vise... closed the jaws over the metal, and used a larger wrench on the insert. It turned in almost another 1/4 turn. That was all it took. From then on they ran true.
Just one way, maybe not the only way....

[Brian Greb]

Eric, I don't know what sort of chuck you have, but on my SN2s, I didn't screw the insert in all the way (thought I had it tight but didn't), and it wobbled a little (that wobble is called run-out). I put the chuck over a 1/2 thick piece of metal in my vise... closed the jaws over the metal, and used a larger wrench on the insert. It turned in almost another 1/4 turn. That was all it took. From then on they ran true.
Just one way, maybe not the only way....

Allen nailed it...

Usually on a chuck if it wobbles the insert is not seated. Try Allen's method to tighten it, btw hard maple works as well as metal.
if the chuck still wobbles check the run out on your drive spindle. If the spindle is true then if you bought the chuck recently take it back and get another. Other wise contact teknatool for a warranty replacement. their chucks should run true in a properly dialed in lathe.
If there is run-out in your lathe spindle then you need new bearings... you'll probably hear a grinding sound as your lathe stops.

[Eric Kosanovich]

Thanks guys this sounds like what i may have. i'm not sure how to check the run out on my drive spindle though. i'll google and see what i come up with.

[Brian Greb]

Thanks guys this sounds like what i may have. i'm not sure how to check the run out on my drive spindle though. i'll google and see what i come up with.


You can check for run out with a dial indicator spring gauge(on sale at HF).