Full kerf blade on miter saw?

[Glen Butler]

I have a Ridged 12 inch SCMS. I'm comtemplating using a full kerf blade so that it deflects less through the wood. Is this a bad idea?

[doug faist]

Glen - I think it's an excellent idea. You'll get a bit less deflection of the blade and a smooth, even cut.

I've never understood the draw of thin kerf blades either on a miter saw or a table saw. The argument seems to be that with an underpowered saw, it's easier to rip stock or that you waste a tremendous amount of wood with a full kerf blade. To me, neither makes much sense. Get a more powerful saw if you need to and don't worry about a 1/16" of waste; it's inconsequential in the overall project.

Now, go make some sawdust! http://sawmillcreek.org/images/icons/icon10.gif

Doug

[Rod Sheridan]

Glenn, I use a standard kerf blade in my mitre saw.

It works better than the thin kerf.........Rod.

[scott spencer]

Crosscuts are easier on the motor than rips, plus the 12" span warrants a full kerf blade IMO....sounds like a very reasonable choice.


...I've never understood the draw of thin kerf blades either on a miter saw or a table saw. The argument seems to be that with an underpowered saw, it's easier to rip stock or that you waste a tremendous amount of wood with a full kerf blade. To me, neither makes much sense. Get a more powerful saw if you need to and don't worry about a 1/16" of waste; it's inconsequential in the overall project.
Doug

Doug - A 1/8" full kerf blade is 33% wider than 3/32" thin kerf, which is a small amount in absolute terms but makes a big percentage difference, and in the power required to spin the blade. Getting a bigger saw to cut occasional 2" material just isn't feasible for many folks, but a good 10" TK blade for $30-$100 that will cut as well as a good full kerf is feasible, easily possible, and even advisable in many situations for smaller saws. The difference in the amount of waste is insignificant to most weekend hobbyists working with common woods, but it can be significant if you work with a lot of expensive exotics.

[Paul Murphy]

Standard kerf here as well.

[Glen Butler]

Thanks for the replies. I didn't know so many people used a full kerf. The only reason I can see for using a thin kerf is they are easier on the motor, but I figure a dull blade is worse than full kerf. I figure in the long run you spend more on blades and sharpening when using a cheap blade, vs a good blade with better carbide. This should be a factor deciding if wear and tear on the motor is worth using a full kerf. All in all I think I will be fine.

The blade I picked up is the tenyu miter-pro. It is only .118 on the carbide, but the plate thickness is thicker than many full kerf blades and this is where the stiffness comes from anyhow. So I get the best of both worlds: A thick plate and just a little lighter on the cut.

[Joe Scharle]

My Rigid came with a full kerf, but it's 12-15 years old. Maybe that's the difference.

[Bill White]

Never had a problem with the TK blades yet. Then again I don't try to "hog" cuts. I use TKs on the miter saw (10"), the RAS, and a TK rip blade on the TS.
Bill

[Brian Fulkerson]

Every cut is 1/8". When I am desperate to salvage material, i use a thin kerf. Otherwise, full kerf all the way!!

[Ryan Baker]

I have always run a full kerf blade in my miter saw and I have never had a lack of power (even with my cheap saw). I run full kerf blades in all of my saws. They are stiffer, and it is a lot easier to figure for 1/8" loss than 3/32". I will only switch to thin kerf if I have a good reason to do so, such as really needing to save the material -- but that hasn't happened yet.

[Van Huskey]

Always FK on all my saws just like the above poster unless there s an overiding reason for TK. Particularly on SCMS they suffer from enough deflection without adding to it with no good reason.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I have plenty of horsepower available on my Unisaw, but I occasionally use a thin kerf rip blade. I use it when ripping a molding (if I just made a profile on the edge or something) and ripping boards to avoid losing too much material. I run most everything through the jointer afterward anyway so a bit of problem with the finish isn't a big deal.

[Glen Butler]

I got to use the blade today. I was cutting hickory and it cuts like a dream. I am very impressed with Tenryu blades. Never going back to diablo blades again except for maybe rough carpentry.

[Michael Donahue]

I got to use the blade today. I was cutting hickory and it cuts like a dream. I am very impressed with Tenryu blades. Never going back to diablo blades again except for maybe rough carpentry.

Good to hear! I have the same saw and I haven't been 100% happy with the cuts. I'll check out that blade.

[scott spencer]

I got to use the blade today. I was cutting hickory and it cuts like a dream. I am very impressed with Tenryu blades. Never going back to diablo blades again except for maybe rough carpentry.

Glad you're happy with it. Tenryu has a huge lineup of blades that includes several different series....some are excellent, some are value, some are construction, etc. I always thought their Gold Medal general purpose blade was top notch, and the RS25550 50T ATB/R is a very good blade at a great price.

[Steve Griffin]

I only use thin kerf blades for rough carpentry. Faster cuts, less work for saw and significantly less sawdust flying about to clean up.

-Steve

[glenn bradley]

I got to use the blade today. I was cutting hickory and it cuts like a dream. I am very impressed with Tenryu blades. Never going back to diablo blades again except for maybe rough carpentry.

I am glad you have the experience of switching to a blade that is a bit more expensive but, does such a noticeably better job. I know once I took that step, I never went back. Congrats. :)

[Glen Butler]

I am glad you have the experience of switching to a blade that is a bit more expensive but, does such a noticeably better job. I know once I took that step, I never went back. Congrats. :)

I have always used good blades in the table saw, but the miter saw was always used for rough carpentry so never thought much of it until recently, when I would see the blade deflect through the wood. Glad I made the change.