What grind angle for a bowl scraper

[Brian Brown]

When I first started turning, I bought 2 round nose scrapers. The grind on them was about 15*. My mentor that was teaching me said I would never be able to use them that way, and he put a grind on them that was closer to 45*. They work with the more accute angle, but now that I am finally starting to understand how the tools work, and getting an idea of how to better finesse my cuts, this angle seems to be a poor choice. If I get a slight catch, the wood grabs the tool and pulls it in deep. Essentially there is no bevel to ride to keep that from happening.

Last weekend when I was in Woodcraft, I looked at a few scrapers from Sorby and Pinnacle, and the stock grinds were about 10*-12* (just an estimate). My question is what angle do you grind on your scrapers, and why? How does that angle enhance their use?

[Ralph Lindberg]

Me.... I have mine at about 15 (or 75), which means a steep, grind.

I do have a 45 one, that I also twist to 45, to do a shear scrape. The problem with the shallower grind, is the edge disappears in less then 30 sec

But, then I'm just a wood-hack

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Brian,

I probably use closer to the 15º grind.

The thing I've noticed that makes the biggest difference to me when using a scraper.....

Proper presentation....handle higher than the tip....

Proper position.....tip about center......

Sharpness.....I can freehand sharpen the scraper in just a few seconds so there is really no excuse to not use a sharp scraper.

MASS! My favorite scraper is a Sorby ExtraHD scraper....it's about 3/8-1/2" thick...the extra mass means less vibration......

For the final finishing cuts on the inside of a bowl bottom...my scraper is an extremely good tool!

[Wally Dickerman]

Brian, I grind most of my scrapers at 30 deg. (60 if you measure the other way). As you say, 45 Deg. is too severe and can result in a grab if you get a little too aggressive. I've found the the factory grind on most scrapers, 15 deg. or so is too blunt. 30 is a good compromise.

For the most part I use a scraper with a very light touch, not to remove much wood but to refine a shape or form. I do have a long and strong tool that I use to do some of the hollowing in a HF. You may remember seeing it in my shop. With that tool, tucked against my side and under my arm, I can really remove a lot of wood and fast.

Scrapers are looked down upon by some elitists but I like to use the tool that does the job the best for me. Of course all of my early bowl turning was done with scrapers with a little help from a forged spindle gouge. The bowl gouge didn't show up on the US market until around 1980. It took a few years before it really came into general use.

Wally

[Bernie Weishapl]

Brian my scrapers have a 20 deg bevel. The key for me is when I present the scraper to the wood the tool rest is back away from the wood enough that like Ken I have the handle higher that the tip of the scraper. Several pro turners that I have watched have explained that if you have a catch it pulls the scraper down away from the wood. Light cuts as Wally said, handle higher and tool rest slightly away from the wood.

[Reed Gray]

I have my scrapers ground to about 15 or 75 degrees, but have never measured the angle, but fairly blunt. It is the way they were when I got them. I have heard a number of times that the sharper the angle, the more they like to grab. I use them for heavy roughing on bowls, and for finish shear cuts with a fine burr. An excellent tool.

robo hippy

[terry richards]

To each his own preference. Catches will diminish with tool comfort.

All my scrapers are ground at 50-55 top plate angle (top plate to bevel). Measuring the "air" angle - the dotted lines on the drawings, that would be 40-35. I don't have many catches with this configuration, even though I don't always "scrape" in the classic sense. The sharper angle allows (for me) better shearing.

Most store-bought grinds are too blunt for my taste.

TR