"Honey, I think there is a reason why they put those blanks in a bin...

[Bob Borzelleri]

near the checkout counter, and I don't think it's because they save the best for on your way out."

Well, I guess it was fitting that my second bowl try ended up being with mystery wood that wanted to crumble every so often. Just when it seemed like I had both the shape and a fairly decent finish, I'd do a little touch up here and there and suddenly the outer bowl looked like I had bounced a rasp off it. I wonder if this is what "punky wood" is about.

I finally got it looking decent with more sanding than I wanted to do and then, to add insult to injury, I realized that the dovetail recess I had cut was too large for my 25mm jaws and too small for my 50 mm jaws. Now I know why Nova sells 35mm jaws.

Oh, for what it's worth, my mystery blank smelled alot like the mesquite I use for smoking meat.

[Brian Novotny]

I think what you're refering to as looking like a rasp bounced off of it you're referring to the end grain areas, which require a good finishing cut, because those rough spots are virtually unsandable unless you've made a descent finishing cut. For finishing cuts I go back to the grinder every 20 seconds of use.......you could also use a negative rake scraper, by taking an old or unused skew and grinding a slight negative angle on the top with a flat tip and maybe a 45 degree angle on the bottom and use it just for your finishing cuts, but it should be reground every 25 seconds of use or so. Also, applying a layer of either sanding sealer or shellac before you sand will raise the grain and help with your finishing ALOT! I think there is a misconception that sanding sealers are just for sealing for finishing purposes. Spray lacquer sanding sealer is something I don't ever like to have to go without. buffing and wax can also do wonders.

[Bob Borzelleri]

Hi Brian...

Thanks for the reply. I wasn't going to the grinder as often as you suggest, but even when I did, the finish ended up rough about 2/3 up the outer wall from the base of the bowl. as I recall, the grain didn't present itself as end grain in that particular area, but maybe I'm missing the read of the grain. I'll check it out again this morning.

I tried a heavy and thick round nose scraper (about 30 degrees) and it gave me a very smooth surface in all but that particular band where it just seemed to amplify the problem.

The problem area seems to be a bit "softer" than the rest of the blank. Strangely enough, there is some spalting away from my problem area, but those areas are cutting smoothly.

Thanks for the thoughts.

...Bob

[Bernie Weishapl]

Bob you might try lacquer thinner/lacquer mixed 50/50 and paint it on. Let it dry good and then give it a try. I have had some woods that had soft spots like that and this has worked well. The other thing I use a lot of the time is 5 min epoxy mixed with DNA to the consistancy of milk. I paint it on and let it dry for 24 hrs and then take some finishing cuts. Works really well. Sometimes those soft spots no matter how sharp your gouge it, it won't make any difference.