Outfitting a basic handtools shop

[Bruce Delaney]

I have been lurking around for a while and given the knowledgable bunch out here, I thought I would post my first question. So here goes...

I have been woodworking for a while, making projects with mostly hand powertools, but have been bothered by the noise and dust powertools create in my cramped workspace. So I have decided to turn to mostly using handtools instead, but need some help in choosing the right tools. I intend to make small to medium-size furniture, boxes, etc.

Based on reading this forum, books and magazines, this is what I think I need to start of with:


Low angle block plane
Smoothing plane (#4-1/2)
Jointer plane (#7)
Hand scrapers
Chisel set (bevel edge)
1000/4000 grit water stone for sharpening/honing
Coarse/fine diamond stone for lapping
Dozuki saw
Ryoba saw
Cabinetmaker-style workbench


Are there any obvious omissions or misplaced priorities? :eek:

I'm particularly confused about what to look for in the Japanese saws, such as length, TPI, partial or full metal backing? :confused:

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.

[Tyler Howell]

Welcome to the Creek Bruce, Great source of Info.


I'd add 6000 and 8000 water stones, a lapping plate and sharpening guide.:cool:
You will want to improve after you get the hang of it I'd (in my vast Neander experience:rolleyes:) get a full back saw ($40-50) and plan on upgrading as you become more familiar.;)

You can Lap with W/D sandpaper on a piece of 3/8" glass as your Lapping plate or even some MDF.

[Tyler Howell]

Just Call Me Windy.
Wanted to say that you don't have to assemble all this stuff before you can start WW. Ran into a guy this weekend that was so pinched up about the wish list and getting the correct tool the first time around that he was missing out on:
A) the joys of WW by waiting to get started {This had been going on for 7 months}
B) The edjucation process of discovery.
Please add to your list a class on wood working. There is nothing like being in a room with a bunch of people that share your passion. I've learned so much from fellow students and outside activities as the from instructor.:cool:

[Tom LaRussa]

Hi Bruce,

Thanks for coming out of the woodwork into the woodworking. :D

Sorry, bad pun. :o




Low angle block plane
Smoothing plane (#4-1/2)
Jointer plane (#7)
Hand scrapers
Chisel set (bevel edge)
1000/4000 grit water stone for sharpening/honing
Coarse/fine diamond stone for lapping
Dozuki saw
Ryoba saw
Cabinetmaker-style workbench
I'm particularly confused about what to look for in the Japanese saws, such as length, TPI, partial or full metal backing? :confused:
I have to admit that I don't know a Dozuki from a Suzuki, but I'm sure others can help you out with nomenclature.

Putting linquistic questions aside, if I were you, I would start with two pull saws -- a two-sided carpentry saw and a dovetail saw.

I'd buy either Irwin or Shark brands. (Mine are Marples brand which, I believe, is now owned by and rebranded as Irwin.)

Both are inexpensive but cut very nicely. Later, when you have learned how to use them really well you can invest in something that will last a lifetime, and/or cost an arm and a leg.

As far as the rest of the tool kit goes, I have posted two lists below. They are the required, (first list), and recommended, (second list), tools that students should bring with them to the woodworking program at the College of the Redwoods. (The program which was created by James Krenov -- who is pretty much my woodworking hero. http://www.crfinefurniture.com/default.html)

They only require students to bring a single plane, but I think this is because they have the students make the rest of them as part of the program.

Note that the program assumes that power tools will be used for stock processing. If you plan to go fully neander you will need some more stuff -- a scrub plane might be nice, for example.



Required Tools:

1-1/ 2" and 1-3/4" plane irons (Hock, standard replacement, or used)

One 1 5/ 8" block plane replacement iron (new or used) or Hock radiused iron for a round bottom plane

Low angle, adjustable throat block plane (Stanley #60 1/ 2, 1 3/ 8" wide)

Dovetail saw (Western or Japanese)

Hand scraper

Set of chisels (1/ 8" to 1" or wider)

Burnishing tool

Marking gauge (Stanley #90 or equal, better suited to modest work than blocky types)

Rule or tape measure

Small bevel gauge

6" engineers square

Straight blade screwdrivers: 1/ 4" x 6"

4 - 6 oz. hammer (plane iron adjustment)

5/ 16 " stubby for tightening cap iron screws

Small mallet (approximately 10 oz. for chopping dovetails)

Sharpening stones, either: Oil stones (India, soft Arkansas or Washita, and hard Arkansas) or Water stones: (800 & 1200 grit and 6000 or equivalent)

Files: 4" mill smooth, 6-8" mill bastard, and an inexpensive set of needle files

Safety glasses or goggles

Glue bottle

Hearing protectors

Bench brush

The Fine Art of Cabinetmaking by James Krenov
The above items are required, those below are suggested:


Spoke shave (Stanley 151 or Kuntz adjustable throat), or better yet, make your own (http://www.shavings.net/TEACHSHAVE.HTM) with John Gunterman's instructions.

Cabinet scraper

Clamps (small cam, quick action or hand)

Small manual drill

Small auxiliary bench vise

Dust mask

Straight edge (18 or 24")

Carving knives

Carving tools (optional)

Anti-fatigue mat

Coffee mug of sufficient quality to resist high-test corrosion

[Sean Evoy]

Just a quick caution on the CoR tool list; students are expected to make their own handplanes in the first few weeks of the course which is why they bring a block plane and plane irons instead of actual planes. Your list of planes is probably fine if you plan on doing most of your stock prep with machines. Others may suggest a low-angle Jack with a couple of iron ground at different bevels to handle a range of tasks. Still other will suggest wooden planes. To be honest, having made/used a couple of Krenov-style planes, I might be inclined to agree that once you get hooked on wooden planes, it is hard to go back.

The thing that struck me as missing from your list is a decent set of layout/marking tools. Good layout is the key to hand joinery, and the lack of a good straightedge and square will lead to endless frustration. Check out Bob Smalser's advice on finding high-quality combo-squares on eBay, or pony up some dough for a decent new one. Same deal for a decent wheel gauge/Japanese-style marking gauge, and a marking knife.

[Robert Tarr]

I think you have a very good list to start with. You should be able to make most things with the list that you have and the addition of the marking gauges and layout tools mentioned. The other obvious (to my my way of working) choice to add to the list, is a shoulder plane. This plane gets used as much in my shop as any of the other planes (except in dovetailed boxes, then not usually at all.)

That should pretty much be a great starter set of tools (provided you already have something to drill holes...)

Take care and good luck.

Robert

[Mark Singer]

I would add a mid size shoulder plane, like the Veritas and forthe saws I would use Tashiro's http://www.tashirohardware.com/ they are reasonable and great the handles allow you to just buy blades. A Sandvick scraper would be nice also. Normal layout tools...squares , scribes, mortise gauge.etc,

[Leif Hanson]

Here's a list I put on another forum - probably mostly (if not all) repeats of the above

A few things I find are indispensable:

good marking gauge
marking knife or awl
6" square
good set of chisels
cheap set of chisels
a couple gouges of different sizes
rasps and files
back saw
mallet - both a joiners and a carvers
block plane
smooth plane
jointer plane
brace and bits
spokeshave
drawknife
coping saw
crosscut saw
hand scraper
saw vise
sharpening stone/system
bevel gauge

These are tools I use on nearly every project.

[Bruce Delaney]

Thanks for all the replies so far. I'm glad to see that at least I'm on the right track! As mentioned by some of you, I forgot to list rather basic items such as marking & layout tools, clamps, and even the occasional power tool like a drill. :D

If I had enough space (and money), I would even list a tablesaw, thickness planer and jointer (IMO, acceptable power tools even for a Neander shop) to mill my own stock but for the time being, I will just buy my wood already milled and just pay a little extra. :o

I'd still like to hear more about what to look for in a dozuki saw to cut dovetails and tenons. I looked at the professional dozuki at Lee valley and it seems like a fine saw.

After I made my list, I gave some more thought on the #4 vs the #4-1/2 smoothing plane. I often read that while some people appreciate the extra heft of a #4-1/2, others complain about that being uncomfortable during extended planing sessions and prefer the #4. Well I picked both kinds up at a local store and didn't think the #4-1/2 was uncomfortably heavy but then I didn't plane with it a whole day either. I realize that this is, as it is with many things, much based on personal preference but which smoother do you prefer and why?

[Roy Wall]

I think one of the most valuable power tools for us "neanders"............



Is the Band Saw....

[Joel Moskowitz]

Buy each tool when you need it not before. When you buy a tool get the best stuff you can afford.
Of the lists above I have no comment. everyone has a differnert take on things. I own practically every basic hand tool around but I actually use only a few. For example I think I own a half dozen mitre planes and a few block planes. I can't remember when I used them last - maybe never.
However about 18 years ago I bought a bedrock 604 - which I still use constantly - for everything - I just have never seen the point of a block plane except that it's inexpensive. I suppose however if I had bought a block plane early on I would be more attached to one.

my list:
decent smooth plane - #3 or #4
Sliding "T" Bevel
Quality 12" combination square
A layout knive - I use an exacto knive. there are also fancy ones that are nice too.
combination gauge (screw adjusted are best a slidiing one is dirt cheap and a reasonable compromise)
Set of bench chisels - get what fits your hand and the best steel you can afford.
a 3/8 or so mortise chisel
a mallet
A gent's dovetail saw - inexpensive and not as nice a short tenon saw but it's a good saw to learn on.

Sharpening equipment -
for a low end starter a pack of lapping film will get you started. Stones are cheaper in the long run.
Having access to a grinder is really important - but you can buy a cheap delta for under 80 bucks. - learn to grind without burning stuff.

You need some way to cut wood accurately - barring a table saw or a good chop saw otherwise you will need a shooting board and a lot more stuff. at least two long saws and a long plane.

A good cordless drill and a set of brad point bits will help a lot.

Some way of getting systematic instruction.

The most useful things you can do is learn to sharpen properly and to saw straight. Also accurate layout is critical. almost everything else derives from that.

All woodworking is some form of layout, cutting and chopping. project get bigger but the steps are the same. Good hand skill make the work go without frustration. good hand skills result from practice and paying attention.

[Tony Zaffuto]

I would second Joel's response. Buy what you need and not what you think you need. Further, look over some of the course outlines posted on the internet for some of the woodworking course out there, and follow their chronology--with most starting with sharpening basics, and moving into accurate layout/marking.

Over the past thirty years or so easily 75% of the money I've spent on woodworking tools was an un-necessary expenditure. My type of woodworking basically comes down to the same tools, time and time again.

As for saws, try before you buy. My preference is Western style. I have a few Japanese, but they're not my cup of tea!

Probably the best advice I received was applicable to my work area: A good sturdy bench and good wood holding methods (vise, dogs, clamps, etc.) will do wonders for your accuracy.

Above all, the best tool is experience: Learning from your mistakes and to keep on trying.

For some of us this is a hobby, for many it is a profession but the key is to keep it enjoyable!