Sawstop Vs USA Unisaw, which to buy?

[Loren Blount]

I am in the process of moving my shop from its current location (2 car garage) to its new location (basement) of the house we are moving to. I have decided to sell my 1998 Unisaw instead of moving it, and buy a new table saw after the move. I have narrowed it down to the new Unisaw, or the Sawstop Professional. Here are what I think the pro's & cons are for each model, but I have never owed either, or had a basement shop, so any advise from fellow basement dwellers or owners of the above mentioned saws would be appreciated.

Sawstop
Pro's
1. Finger saving technology
2. Improved dust collection on blade guard
3. Makes woodworking friends Drool

Cons
1. Possible electrical/computer issues years down the road
2. Relatively new company, longevity of brand more of a question than Delta IMO
3. I've not read much positive reviews of the fence
4. Having to keep a watch out for woodworking friends carrying hot dogs

Unisaw
Pro's
1. USA made
2. True Biesemeyer fence
3. Upfront cranks for blade angle

Cons
1. No finger saving technology
2. More dust in the basement due to lack of collection at the blade

Any thoughts would be appreciated, at $ 3000 each I don't want to have to do it twice.

Thanks
Loren

[Mike Henderson]

No question - get the SawStop. And the reason is to save your fingers. People make mistakes - you make mistakes. If you have a serious injury, it'll cost you a lot of money and you won't be able to work for a while.

Mike

[James Phillips]

I love the fence on my sawstop. It is rock solid

[Tri Hoang]

I vote for Sawstop. I don't have one. Never use one. However, I have seen its demo and inspected the saw closely. The Sawstop is very well built. Efficient DC makes it even more enjoyable.

[Ross Canant]

Keep the Uni you have.

[Jeff Monson]

I dont own either, but IMO its a no brainer.... sawstop, nothing but good things on this board about the saw.

Finger saving technology, enough said in my book...wish I could trade my pm2000 for one.

I know it does not prevent kickback, but having the capability of stopping the blade on skin contact is a HUGE safety device.

[Joe Mioux]

Even without the brake, the SawStop is a very refined cabinet saw. Contrary to many opinions, much of the cost difference between it and other saws is not in the brake but in other features common to both/most/all saws.

I have never heard or read of any problems with the SawStop fence.

joe

ftr: I own the Industrial version Saw Stop.

[Loren Blount]

I looked into buying a sawstop after they had been out for about a year or so and before the new Unisaw came out, and that is when I read of the problems with the fence. I can't recall the specific problem with the fence other that I remember more than one reviewer commenting that they had issues with it. It could be that the fence back then on the Industrial version is different than the fence used today on the Professional model I am interested in. Hopefully someone with more knowledge can fill me in.

Loren

[scott spencer]

I'll (we'll) benefit more if you buy the made in the USA Delta Unisaw, so that's an easy decision! :D

[Paul Ryan]

PCS owner here, so I am a little biased. I was critical of the PCS fence at first but I can say I had any issues with it. It is almost identical to a bies. So I really don't think you are giving anything up by going with the sawstop. The dust collection on the sawstop is better top and bottom. One of the magazines verified that. The sawstop PCS had the best dust collection with out the guard on and by far the best with the guard on. The uni is a little heavier and in a commerical setting the uni would hold up longer. In a home based shop or small business either one will last as long as you need it to.

Either one is an excellent saw I have looked over the new uni very closely a number of times. And would still buy my PCS everytime. I have owned my saw for a year and am still very very happy every time I fire it up. It is designed well, easy to adjust, and sawstop customer service is 2nd to no one, that is a big bonus in my book. It would be nice if it was American made, even though the uni should say american assembled. The majority of the uni's parts are american made but not all, and it is at least assembled in the USA. I have not plans to ever test the brake on my saw, but it sure is nice to know it is there, if and or so I ever have that "bad hair day".

[Tony Bilello]

Scott

I thought you had a Shop Fox made in Taiwan.
Glad you bought American though. I also try to buy USA as much as I can.
I was always a Delta fan and hated to see them go overseas.

[Keith Albertson]

Loren, as an orthopaedic surgeon I lobbied sevreal times on this forum for people to get Sawstops. I got one myself last month. Unfortunately, it is not working........

It is a beautiful saw, and came extremely well packaged. The set up instructions were clear cut and the owner's manual second to none. It took me 2 weekends to get it set up, top leveled, wings attached, wiring accomplished (I had to figure a way to connect my dryer 220 socket to the 20 amp plug on the machine.

When all set up, I turned on the saw with the blade below the table and it ran fine. I turned the saw off, and raised the blade. When I turned the saw on again, it triggered the finger saving cartridge, even before the blade started turning. I have adjusted the saw, but can't even get it to run on standby. Needless to say I am frustrated, looking at this beautiful, finger saving, "last saw I'll ever buy" machine that hasn't even made any dust yet.

I will say that Sawstop customer service has been very responsive, and they are inspecting my cartridge to see if they know what caused it to fire. But your one concern about "more electrical things to screw up" seems valid in my case. I'll let you know how it works out.

Everyone else I've talked to is in love with their saw, and I still think the finger saving tech is worth the few extra bucks......but it's like I've got a toy my parents won't let me play with.....

As for the fence, seems good to me.....but you can always buy an Incra fence or other kind if you want. You don't have to use the Sawstop fence.

[Mike Wellner]

New Unisaw and retrofit with a riving knife, and there is no replacement for using your brain

[Kent A Bathurst]

The kool-aid goes well with the hotdogs.:D

I was just kidding, you guys - put the guns down please......please.....

Above all - buy the best value for your dollar, as your dollar sees it. This "not made in K-k-k-k-k-k-Katmandu" logic simply escapes me. Don't see how that gives me the best tool for my investment $. So says the owner of an American-made Uni. SS - fine. Uni - fine. PM - fine. Back down into my foxhole now.

[Sean Nagle]

I'd keep my old Uni and buy another tool with the money saved :D

[Mike Heidrick]

If you decide to go new Uni just keep the saw you have. It is an awesome saw already. Not really worth the upgrade $ to not have to move your hand 6" to reach to the side and have 3" extra table. Add a **** or other bolt on riving knife option.

[Ron Carlton]

Get the Sawstop. I have one. No problems with the fence. I sometimes grumble when I want to turn the saw on and it is going through the diagnostics.

BTW after the orthopedic surgeons repair the injured appendage, it is my job to get it functional again. A Sawstop was a no brainer for me.:)

[michael case]

Keith,

Sometimes people forget to set the brake away from the blade. Is that what happened? But even still it should run after being adjusted. It won't run even in override? Wow that sucks! I have had the industrial version for three years. Never a problem. It is the largest seller in the U.S. so something is going to crop up occasionally. Sorry it had to you. However, I have been a strong advocate of this saw and I'd be very interested to know if this company takes care of you right. Please let me know the outcome with Sawstop. I would really appreciate it.

As for the original question, I have nothing but good things to say about my personal experiences with Sawstop. Its far and away the nicest American- style table saw I've seen. I have never heard of an issue with the fence. Fine Woodworking rated their fence the most rigid of all in their last big review of cabinet saws. The fence on mine has performed flawlessly as has everything else on this machine.

[mreza Salav]

I don't see the point of selling a Unisaw and buying another Unisaw. I mean, sure there are some improvements on the new version (riving knife etc) but are they worth the extra money you'd dish out?

If I was going to sell it though it'd be a clear answer to me as to what to get: sawstop. I have looked at both saws up close and they are both very good quality saws. But the finger saving thing is a BIG plus.

I have an industrial Sawstop and am happy with it. The fence is rock solid and doesn't move. The iron is flat across it's length. What some people may find not so accurate is the laminate piece that goes on top of it. I noticed it is not very even across it's length but you can adjust and shim it at different locations.

[Van Huskey]

I am in the get the Uni camp, or actually the keep your Uni and get another machine that makes your shop more complete, but then I would get a PM2000 instead of either, well because thats what I chose to spend my money on. My reasons won't be your reasons. Most will say "get what I have" unless they have major issues with it then it is usually "get anything but what I have". Bottom line people justify their choices. Further, both of them are fine saws, I think the Uni is a better saw and built more for the long haul but it isn't like a PCS is a short term saw either.

Although it does go against my opinion as to what is the better saw, this is how I see it, if you do get one of these saws you will almost certainly not regret buying either as it pertains to basic saw tasks assuming you aren't a production shop BUT you will regret buying the PCS if you ever get a chunk of flesh removed by the Uni. If you are truely on the bubble get the PCS. For me I wasn't on the bubble and I bought what feel is the better saw, at least for me.

I can't help but reiterate that you have a fine saw as it is, look around your shop and see what tool most needs upgrading or what new machine gives you the most NEW capabilities, if it is moving from the old Uni to the new Uni or PCS then go for it. If not think how nice that different machine will be, bottom line neither are any sort of huge upgrade to what you have, the DC can be improved for $150 with a Shark Guard or for some more money a nice overhead like maybe a Beis!

[John Coloccia]

For what it's worth, I would take the SS every time, with or without the brake. It's a great saw and a great company to deal with.

That said, if I ever upgrade it will certainly be to one of the European combo machines with a sliding table.

[johnny means]

Either one would be a great saw the day it came home. But imagine how great a SS would seem if and when you stuck your thumb in the blade. Then imagine how much the Uni would suck in the same situation.

[Steven DeMars]

I think it is a personal thing as to Saw Stop vs. a traditional American Style Table Saw.

Some of us tend to adhere to good safety practices more than others . . .

Self discipline, and education is what I feel more comfortable with . . .

As for the "Hot Dog" technology, I think it is a wonderful idea . . . but how about the 20 other "meat eating" tools in your shop . . .

Since I have been on this board I have seen more post about router accidents than anything else . . .

I don't have gun locks on my guns, if ever I have to reach for one I have no desire to yell out. "hey honey, where is the key to my GLOCK . . . That's not illegal here in the south . . . why do I say this . . . sometimes you can safety something to a point of uselessness or create a false sense of safety . . .

It's woodworking, it's dangerous . . . so is motorcycle riding, skating, hang gliding, etc . . . be careful . . .

Besides, I have lost my livelihood twice thanks to OUTSOURCING ! ! !

Just my 2 cents . . .

[Daniel Shnitka]

Do your research. There are pleny of reviews on both saws from many experienced woodworkers who post or blog, different publications and online websites dedicated to woodworking.
List all the critical issues that are important to you in terms of performance of the two saws.
Listed are some of the issues I considered.
Broken down into catagories.
ASSEMBLY
1. Ease of set up. As close as economically viable to being "Out of the box ready".
2. Readable, logical,intuitive step by step sequence of assembly manual with excellent supporting diagrams and photos when assembling the saw.
3. The customer support from the company that is immediate and does not make you feel like you are taking up their time.
4. Bolts (and their length)that match and fit the holes.and exact number needed.
5. Pre-drilled and where applicable taped holes which match up precisely, whether it be the the cast iron wings or the front and rear rails.
6. Ease of adustment for dealing with blade to mitre guide and fence.
7. Ready to go accuracy "out of the box" with regards to arbor run out and and saw blade parallelism to fence and mitre guides.
8. Finding no slop in the the raising, lowering and tilt of the blade.
9. The standing penny test of the saw being started, running and and being turned off.

That nearly covers the issues I evaluted and compared saws in the Assembly category only. I did the same for comparing saws in the category of fit and finish. The third category I made notes on was performance.
The fourth evaluation was safety and ease of use of the spliter, riving knife, dust collection.
Admittedly Sawstop has a safety braking system unique in the table saw industry which on its own sets it apart. That being said I compared saws on most issues that a professional or dedicated hobbyist would consider important.
The final decesion was to take into account ones own work habits and the what is in your shop that either beckons you or repels you.

[Don Morris]

I have a cabinet saw, but neither mentioned. You worry SS will go out of business? I doubt any time soon with the way schools and other places are putting them in as a hedge against law suits. That's the technology that probably will be mandated in the future, and they've got their foot in there first. I love my Griz 1023SL but if I wasn't retired, on a budget, and in your place, no question, I would replace the Uni with the SS. However, if you decide not too, that decision isn't wrong, just a different decision. Wise men can come to different conclusions. Lots of ways to skin a cat. Oppppps, don't send PETA after me, I'm an animal lover.

[Elijah Fontenot]

Get the SAWSTOP. After I cut up 3 fingers and a thumb last year, It's a no brainer for me. The new Uni is really nice, however I have NO complaints from my SawStop PCS and my fence is great and so is the dust collection.

[Michael Flores]

You can tell this is going to go on for along time. I'm currently about to take the plunge and buy the uni. The saw stop is great for high schools surrounded by bone heads. The benefits of having both controls in front out-way the benefits of a finger saver. I mean how many, long time, well established woodworkers do we know that are missing fingers compared to the one's who are not? Norm was on TV for 20 years and he still has all eleven of them. Sam Maloof never ran out and changed his saw over to a saw stop for the added safety, and we all know he could have definitely afforded it. My high school wood shop teacher was there for 27 years and left with all ten. Honestly i don't know or have even meet someone with missing fingers from a table saw, and i still take woodworking courses at the local community college who also doesn't plan on buying any sawstops. I know, i asked.

Remember "Accidents don't just happen, they're caused"

[ken gibbs]

How about deciding that you are not gong to cutod you digts with the table saw? Just decide that you are going to be careful and buy the Unisaw.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

I have a unisaw and if I would have had to pay $3000 I would have gotten the Sawstop.

You are taking a minor risk that they go under and then have computer problems, but for the same money Sawstop is my choice.

I got my uni for $1200 when the sawstop was $3000, I couldn't afford the price difference.

[Don Dorn]

Being an old manufacturing quality guy - I use what's called a Pugh matrix to make such decisions where there are several variables.

Basically, you list all the things important on the left side of a spreadsheet such as Overall Quality, Price, Resale Value, Power, Safety, Dust Collection, Fence, Controls, Warranty, etc (anything you deem important) Put a weight on each at 1-10. Then, each gets assigned against a standard which is your old tablesaw. Each choice is either better (which gets a +), worse (a -) or the same (S). Pluses get added up for each which corresponds with the weight value of that variable, a negative takes that weight value away and a S does nothing. When finished, add up the pluses value and subtract the negatives for each. The one that gets the highest value is probably your "logical" choice.

I know it sounds technical for a subjective thing - but that's exactly why I did it because it puts some logic to it and removes it from being strictly emotional. I ended up with a Griz 1023SL in 2003 and I've been perfectly happy. Doesn't mean it was better quality than my other choices, but my variables also included different things including cost, warrantly, quality, controls, etc. They didn't have riving knives then, but if they did, it would have been weighted at a 10 and I doubt I'd have the saw I do now.

[scott spencer]

Scott

I thought you had a Shop Fox made in Taiwan.
Glad you bought American though. I also try to buy USA as much as I can.
I was always a Delta fan and hated to see them go overseas.

Unfortunately, the $2000 price difference predetermined the decision for me, and even then I had to sell some handplanes to buy it at $900, but I did add an American made fence later on. When the price is even moderately close on comparable quality, I'd definitely go with the American made choice.

[Maurice Ungaro]

I'd keep my old Uni and buy another tool with the money saved :D

A big +1 on that!

[michael case]

Michael Flores,

1. Most table saw accidents happen to professionals. 2. I've had two over thirty years, I'm professional, I make my living at this, I'm not a bone head. 3.
Norm got a Sawstop by the way despite the huge pressure from Delta. If You prefer the bells an whistles of the new Uni over a proven safety device well that's great. But that doesn't make people with other priorities boneheads. OK?

[Rod Sheridan]

I'm replacing my cabinet saw with a slider, however if I were buying another cabinet saw, without question, it would be a Saw Stop.

I hope you never have to try out the safety brake, however if you do, at least it will be there.

If you're not too concerned about yourself, perhaps considering the trauma inflicted on your family members when you have an accident will convince you to purchase the Saw Stop.

Diann and I were at a woodworking show a few years ago and we saw the hot dog demo. Diann turned to me and said "Does your General do that?"

When I answered no, she said, "You should replace it with the Saw Stop."

She's correct, however I didn't want another cabinet saw........Rod.

[Dan Friedrichs]

How about deciding that you are not gong to cutod you digts with the table saw? Just decide that you are going to be careful and buy the Unisaw.

Well, they're nearly the same price, so why not buy the SawStop?

While I'm at it, I'll take the airbag out of my car and decide not to have any accidents. I'll also take the smoke detectors out of my house and just decide not to catch anything on fire.

(You might say that the actions of others might cause me to have a car accident or start a fire - but there was recently a story on this forum where someone cut themselves on a TS because a co-worker dropped a sheet of plywood or something on their back while they were using the saw - even perfect safety on your part may not be enough)

[Rod Sheridan]

Well, they're nearly the same price, so why not buy the SawStop?

While I'm at it, I'll take the airbag out of my car and decide not to have any accidents. I'll also take the smoke detectors out of my house and just decide not to catch anything on fire.

(You might say that the actions of others might cause me to have a car accident or start a fire - but there was recently a story on this forum where someone cut themselves on a TS because a co-worker dropped a sheet of plywood or something on their back while they were using the saw - even perfect safety on your part may not be enough)

+1 Dan.

Or ride your motorcycle without a helmet would be one argument I'd use....Rod.

[Loren Blount]

Micheal
Where did you read or see that:
"Norm got a Sawstop by the way despite the huge pressure from Delta."

I'm not doubting you I'm just curious. I am leaning more toward the Sawstop. I have been running a table saw since I was 10 (grandpa believed you learned best by doing) without a serious accident, but if I did have a accident the first thing I would do is go out and by a Sawstop, so why wait until (if ever) I have the accident. THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THEIR ADVISE.

Loren

[Paul Ryan]

I have seen them using sawstops on this old house. I also heard the same thing that once Norm retired from the show he bought a sawstop. Cant remember where though. It might have been here.

[scott spencer]

I have seen them using sawstops on this old house. I also heard the same thing that once Norm retired from the show he bought a sawstop. Cant remember where though. It might have been here.

They featured the contractor saw model on an Ask TOH episode.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Decide not to have an accident?

If only that were true.....

[Callan Campbell]

I'm replacing my cabinet saw with a slider, however if I were buying another cabinet saw, without question, it would be a Saw Stop.

I hope you never have to try out the safety brake, however if you do, at least it will be there.

If you're not too concerned about yourself, perhaps considering the trauma inflicted on your family members when you have an accident will convince you to purchase the Saw Stop.

Diann and I were at a woodworking show a few years ago and we saw the hot dog demo. Diann turned to me and said "Does your General do that?"

When I answered no, she said, "You should replace it with the Saw Stop."

She's correct, however I didn't want another cabinet saw........Rod.
Good Lord Rod, our wives should never meet up. Yours sounds just like mine about this subject. My wife wanted me to switch out my '05 Unisaw to the new SS PCS model. The "wife approved" ad campaign from Saw Stop in woodworking magazines didn't help either.:p
But, the newer machines are all wider in their footprint than my 52" rail system on my older Uni . So, none of them will fit in my basement shop unless I move/unearth a major section of it and move several floor model tools away from a wall to allow any wider saw to fit. I have the dreaded steel support columns running down the middle of the space.] Suddenly, with all the work that it meant, she went quiet on the subject.:rolleyes:
For the original poster, I have fantastic dust collection with my old Uni., and the overhead guard[Brett-Guard] that I bought really adds to that. I'm with others on this, research, buy what you want, or improve your existing Unisaw like I did with a good over-arm guard system. I also added the Biesemeyer riving knife system as well. So, I have two different heights of splitters for my regular throat plate, and the MJ Pro micro-splitter for my zero clearance throat plate .
If you keep a well designed blade guard in place, with a good splitter/ riving knife set-up, you work safer with any saw.

[Don Bullock]

Micheal
...I am leaning more toward the Sawstop. I have been running a table saw since I was 10 (grandpa believed you learned best by doing) without a serious accident, but if I did have a accident the first thing I would do is go out and by a Sawstop, so why wait until (if ever) I have the accident. THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THEIR ADVISE.

Loren

Loren, I like your logic. As soon as I learned about SawStop saws I showed my wife the videos on their website. Her response was immediate. She wanted me to replace my 1970s vintage Craftsman with a SawStop and figured how we could afford one. I have found that the saw's technology has made me even more careful than I ever was when I used my old Craftsman. It's a tool that I enjoy using.

[Harley Lewis]

I have been using table saws for nearly 50 years and never had an issue until last year. I had a uni and I just about cut off 4 fingers but I was lucky and I have only scars to show for a moment of bad judegment! This was the only accident I had in all that time.

I sold the uni and bought a Saw Stop. Of course I bought it for the safety features, and I am glad I did. I want to work wood for the next 10 or 15 years God willing and a Saw Stop will certainly help with that.

Now, how do I compare the Saw Stop with the uni. Really, there is no comparison, the Saw Stop is simply a much better built machine. It is heavier, it is easier to use, it is easier to adjust, it is a really really good table saw. You have said the fence is not as good, and that is again not the case. The Saw Stop fence is every bit as good as the Bessy, if not better. The Saw Stop is more money, but you get a great saw and perhaps some day a trip to the emergency room.

[mreza Salav]

It always comes up in a thread about sawstop: some think others push their hands to the blade because they are "bone heads" or whatever you want to call it.
That if you are careful enough and don't make mistake this won't happen.
I have yet to see one human being that never makes a mistake.
And I have seen plenty of people with 30+ or 40+ of daily work with saws that have had a few digits missing. To think I am above them all and this won't happen to me just amazes me.

[Rod Sheridan]

Good Lord Rod, our wives should never meet up. Yours sounds just like mine about this subject. My wife wanted me to switch out my '05 Unisaw to the new SS PCS model. The "wife approved" ad campaign from Saw Stop in woodworking magazines didn't help either.:p
But, the newer machines are all wider in their footprint than my 52" rail system on my older Uni . So, none of them will fit in my basement shop unless I move/unearth a major section of it and move several floor model tools away from a wall to allow any wider saw to fit. I have the dreaded steel support columns running down the middle of the space.] Suddenly, with all the work that it meant, she went quiet on the subject.:rolleyes:
For the original poster, I have fantastic dust collection with my old Uni., and the overhead guard[Brett-Guard] that I bought really adds to that. I'm with others on this, research, buy what you want, or improve your existing Unisaw like I did with a good over-arm guard system. I also added the Biesemeyer riving knife system as well. So, I have two different heights of splitters for my regular throat plate, and the MJ Pro micro-splitter for my zero clearance throat plate .
If you keep a well designed blade guard in place, with a good splitter/ riving knife set-up, you work safer with any saw.

Callan, if our wives are the same, never take your wife to the Felder dealership.

I'm looking at the Hammer and Diann is asking why not buy the Felder 700 series if it's better?

regards, Rod.

[Brian Penning]

Loren, I like your logic. As soon as I learned about SawStop saws I showed my wife the videos on their website. Her response was immediate. She wanted me to replace my 1970s vintage Craftsman with a SawStop and figured how we could afford one. I have found that the saw's technology has made me even more careful than I ever was when I used my old Craftsman. It's a tool that I enjoy using.

Same here.
SWMBO saw the video and "forced" me to sell my General for the SS.

[Maurice Ungaro]

It always comes up in a thread about sawstop: some think others push their hands to the blade because they are "bone heads" or whatever you want to call it.
That if you are careful enough and don't make mistake this won't happen.
I have yet to see one human being that never makes a mistake.
And I have seen plenty of people with 30+ or 40+ of daily work with saws that have had a few digits missing. To think I am above them all and this won't happen to me just amazes me.

It's funny, I responded that the OP should keep his existing saw and save his money. But I'm frugal....most times (unless it's something I lust after). Some guys are fortunate that they have enough cash to spend on a new saw. Having just bought my Uni 2.5 years ago for less than $1,100, I'd have a HARD time justifying to my tightwad wife the purchase of a SawStop.

Having said all that, if I were IN the market for a new saw, and price was the same, what would I pick? SawStop for sure.

[Mark Saberniak]

I have the Sawstop professional and the fence should not be in you con list tor this saw. It is awesome. I also like the quality better than Delta. Go to the tool outlet and raise or angle the blade on each saw and tell me which feels like better quality.

[Paul Ryan]

The biggest reason I own a sawstop is because of SWMBO as well. Now that I own it I am happy every day she convinced me. It helps that she is a nurse and has seen 1st hand numerous times what saw blades do to fingers and hands.

[Kevin Groenke]

Not a bad choice to have really, though if there's nothing wrong with the old Uni, using $3k for something else (CLAMPS!!!) seems rather appealing.

I"ll address your issues in-line

Sawstop
Pro's
1. Finger saving technology This is the primary reason SS gets the nod.
2. Improved dust collection on blade guard Especially if you put a vac on it.
3. Makes woodworking friends Drool Drool causes rust and makes the floor slippery, so this is actually a con.

Cons
1. Possible electrical/computer issues years down the road If there are problems and SS fails as a company, just replace the "control module" with a mag switch, take off the brake cartridge and you still have a great saw (that can cut hot dogs).
2. Relatively new company, longevity of brand more of a question than Delta IMO I agree that SS will be supported, too many units sold to commercial and institutional users for NO support structure (cartridges, parts) to go forward if SS should fail/sell-out. Like printer cartridges, those brakes are the gift that keeps on giving. Delta has had how many owners in the past 10 years? Anything can happen.
3. I've not read much positive reviews of the fence The SS fence is great, some of the early ones had faces that were not as flat as they could have been, but SS seems to have resolved that issue, I've never heard any other complaints.
4. Having to keep a watch out for woodworking friends carrying hot dogs

Unisaw
Pro's
1. USA made

from Delta: Assembled and Machined in the U.S.A.

The new Unisaw is proudly made in the U.S.A. of foreign and domestic components in our Jackson, Tennessee facility. In this product, we use cast-iron milled and machined in the U.S.A. and include an American-made Marathon Motor.
By making products here in the U.S. we can adhere to higher standards of quality and accuracy than our competitors - many of whom use low cost imports. It also means jobs for American workers.

I wonder just how much of the Uni is actually manufactured at home. Obviously, the CI is cast elsewhere since they specifically indicated that it's MILLED and MACHINED here. They're probably basically letting it rest in a container while in transit rather than having it take up space in a factory/warehouse for 2 months. SS is a domestic company employing Americans and paying taxes (presumably) in Tualatin, OR.

2. True Biesemeyer fence See above
3. Upfront cranks for blade angle a new, unproven design: how robust and durable is the design and components? That dial looks like it was pulled from a Mattell Hot Wheels set I got for xmas in 1973. The dial indicator isn't any more accurate than a scale and pointer, a $25 Wixey or a knock-off is 10x more accurate.

Cons
1. No finger saving technology Yep, also indicates Delta's lack of innovation and commitment to users (we don't care if you cut off your fingers - just look at their innovation in blade guarding solutions over the years)
2. More dust in the basement due to lack of collection at the blade A little dust never hurt anybody. Look at what Delta has done to capture dust from it's sanders and bandsaws....NADA.
3. Long reach. It's hard enough for the average user to push stock past the blade in a straight line when the blade is near the middle of the tabletop, way back there it's going to be even tougher. I think the location of the blade was determined by the "up front" controls and that Delta decided to market it as an intentional design improvement after the fact.


-kg

[Callan Campbell]

Not a bad choice to have really, though if there's nothing wrong with the old Uni, using $3k for something else (CLAMPS!!!) seems rather appealing.

I"ll address your issues in-line

Sawstop
Pro's
1. Finger saving technology This is the primary reason SS gets the nod.
2. Improved dust collection on blade guard Especially if you put a vac on it.
3. Makes woodworking friends Drool Drool causes rust and makes the floor slippery, so this is actually a con.

Cons
1. Possible electrical/computer issues years down the road If there are problems and SS fails as a company, just replace the "control module" with a mag switch, take off the brake cartridge and you still have a great saw (that can cut hot dogs).
2. Relatively new company, longevity of brand more of a question than Delta IMOI agree that SS will be supported, too many units sold to commercial and institutional users for NO support structure (cartridges, parts) to go forward if SS should fail/sell-out. Like printer cartridges, those brakes are the gift that keeps on giving. Delta has had how many owners in the past 10 years? Anything can happen.
3. I've not read much positive reviews of the fence The SS fence is great, some of the early ones had faces that were not as flat as they could have been, but SS seems to have resolved that issue, I've never heard any other complaints.
4. Having to keep a watch out for woodworking friends carrying hot dogs

Unisaw
Pro's
1. USA made

from Delta:Assembled and Machined in the U.S.A.

The new Unisaw is proudly made in the U.S.A. of foreign and domestic components in our Jackson, Tennessee facility. In this product, we use cast-iron milled and machined in the U.S.A. and include an American-made Marathon Motor.
By making products here in the U.S. we can adhere to higher standards of quality and accuracy than our competitors - many of whom use low cost imports. It also means jobs for American workers.

I wonder just how much of the Uni is actually manufactured at home. Obviously, the CI is cast elsewhere since they specifically indicated that it's MILLED and MACHINED here. They're probably basically letting it rest in a container while in transit rather than having it take up space in a factory/warehouse for 2 months. SS is a domestic company employing Americans and paying taxes (presumably) in Tualatin, OR.

2. True Biesemeyer fence See above
3. Upfront cranks for blade angle a new, unproven design: how robust and durable is the design and components? That dial looks like it was pulled from a Mattell Hot Wheels set I got for xmas in 1973. The dial indicator isn't any more accurate than a scale and pointer, a $25 Wixey or a knock-off is 10x more accurate. -I'm not sure about that. I swear I've seen the dials "upfront" on a 50s/60s older machine, maybe it's Oliver. Check OWWM's website to see what I mean, someone's done this before, it's not new at all as a concept, maybe just in the way Delta executed the layout for the Uni.

Cons
1. No finger saving technology Yep, also indicates Delta's lack of innovation and commitment to users (we don't care if you cut off your fingers - just look at their innovation in blade guarding solutions over the years)
2. More dust in the basement due to lack of collection at the blade A little dust never hurt anybody. Look at what Delta has done to capture dust from it's sanders and bandsaws....NADA. -Could You elaborate about this. What sander or sanders did they do this with. A Combo sander?, Disc machine? Just wanted to know, it sounds like you've owned something of theirs and are speaking from experience.-
3. Long reach. It's hard enough for the average user to push stock past the blade in a straight line when the blade is near the middle of the tabletop, way back there it's going to be even tougher. I think the location of the blade was determined by the "up front" controls and that Delta decided to market it as an intentional design improvement after the fact.- -Hmm, interesting thought on the new larger tables that everyone is sprouting up with. Some reviews like the larger front section , as an easier way to lay large pieces on the table while you're lining it up with the fence for a cut. But, with no outfeed support, I can see your point once it's all hanging "out the back".


-kg
Anyway, one more post to the new "What's the Best New Table";) question debates
Add-on- I just found the old table saw on OWWM that has a dial mounted in the front as your angle indicator- Atlas/Clausing made a table saw that used the dial, but the wheels were conventional in layout, height in front, angle at the right side of the cabinet. I knew I'd seen the Unisaw set-up somewhere before. Looks like they just expanded on the idea with the new Unisaw.

[Van Huskey]

I wonder just how much of the Uni is actually manufactured at home.
-kg


IIRC the number is 70%.