Jointer plane search

[Clint Barden]

I'm in the market for a jointer plane to rehab (I will need it to flatten my new workbench when it's assembled!).

I've been looking at the Stanley Baileys on Ebay. Is there anything specific that I should look for or avoid? I've read through most of the links relevant to the subject in the "Neander Wisdom" sticky, but it's just so much info to soak in.

I'm not trying to get a collectors item, but from the going prices on some of them, it looks as if I can get a Stanley user that needs just a little TLC for about the same price as a Groz.

Thanks for any help!

[Brian Kent]

I assume you have looked at the current thread, "The Best Jointer Plane You Have Ever Used."

Because most of us do not have a whole flock of Jointer Planes, a lot of these responses are "I like the one that I have." Nevertheless you can see a lot of planes that people like. I'll post the compilation by tonight and we'll keep adding to that.

Over 1/3 so far (10 of 27) are refurbished old Stanleys. 4 others are also refurbished old metal planes. So yes, I think you can do very well going that route. Many of them have hock blades and cap irons so figure that in your potential cost if you need one.

Hopefully the specifics on that thread can show some good things to look for and others who know better than me will chime in.

[David Gendron]

Check out this guy, I bought a few things from him, he is realy honest and the tools are great users!
e-mail: brass@snet.net
phone: 203-574-7805
please call before 5pm
Walt

[David Gendron]

An other one you can try, I never bought anything from him but heard good things!
In the Stanley planes, #8 will be more $$ than #7 and BedRock will be more that Baileys plane. I think, a rule of thumb for used Stanleys, is type 15 and earlier!

[Clint Barden]

Thanks for the input. David, do you know where Walt is located?

[Mark Stutz]

Clint,
How experienced are you at getting an old plane up and running? It's one thing to lap a #3or #4 if needed, but you can do more damage than good on something like a jointer. That's the place to look for one thats been rehabbed or at least "OK'd" by someone with experience. Walt is a good choice. Lots of others too.

Mark

[jerry nazard]

Clint,

Please don't get something like a Groz. An older Bailey or Millers Falls would be reasonably priced and in the long run a far better choice.

-Jerry

[Clint Barden]

Clint,
How experienced are you at getting an old plane up and running? It's one thing to lap a #3or #4 if needed, but you can do more damage than good on something like a jointer. That's the place to look for one thats been rehabbed or at least "OK'd" by someone with experience. Walt is a good choice. Lots of others too.

Mark



Not much really. The planes that I have are a Stanley block plane and Stanley #4, both only a few years old, and a #5 Groz. I have fiddled with them and got them all working much better than when I got them.

I will check out Walt to see what he has. Does he have a website?

[Brian Kent]

Walt's website:

http://www.brasscityrecords.com/toolworks/new%20tools.html

[Bob Easton]

I do trust and have done business with each of these folks: Jon Zimmer (http://www.jonzimmersantiquetools.com/tools/pla_list.htm), Patrick Leach (http://www.supertool.com/), Sandy Moss (http://www.sydnassloot.com/TOOLS.HTM), Walt Q (http://www.brasscityrecords.com/toolworks/new%20tools.html), and Bob Kaune (http://www.antique-used-tools.com/stanpl.htm).

At any point in time, you should be able to find a reasonably priced #7 among these guys. A #8 is a little less frequent. A couple of summers ago, I wandered into every shop and flea market I could find in old tool rich Maine looking for a decent #7. Every one I found had good reason for rejection. One of these guys, Jon if I remember right, came through with a good one at a price comparable to many of the rejects in the shops.

[Mike Siemsen]

Your location says Raleigh, NC
Here are the M-WTCA meet dates for your state. Great people, old tool lovers, good selection, hold it in your hands before you buy!
Jan 16, 2010, Hillsborough, NC Tom Konsler (919) 967-9550
Feb 4-6, 2010, Madison, GA Doug Fowler (706) 629-8604 Peach Meet (This is a joint 3 day meeting with Area's K,M,N & Q)
Apr 10, 2010, Waxhaw, NC David Fridy (704) 843-5024
Jul 24, 2010, Raleigh, NC Ed Hobbs (919) 828-2754
Nov 6, 2010, Bethania, NC Robert Oehman (919) 858-8506
You could just call Ed Hobbs in Raleigh, the Mid-west tool collectors all know each other and he may direct you to someone that has one for sale. ]

Mike

[Clint Barden]

WOW!

You guys are awesome. I will definitely check into this to located a good plane instead of Ebay.

Thanks!!!

[David Keller NC]

Clint - Since you're in Raleigh, you're in luck. Drop by Klingspor's Woodworking Shop in Raleigh. They retail antique tools from a local trustworthy dealer - Jake Gardner. Several #7s were on display last time I looked (last week), and a couple of #8s. The shop doesn't add much in the way of markup to these tools, and you can examine them in your hand to see if it's what you want.

Jake typically deals in somewhat scruffy, but absolutely useable planes and other tools. "Scruffy" means the normal wear and grime you'd see on a tool, but not cracks, breaks and other problems that you may (or may not) see on e-bay tools.

[Clint Barden]

Clint - Since you're in Raleigh, you're in luck. Drop by Klingspor's Woodworking Shop in Raleigh. They retail antique tools from a local trustworthy dealer - Jake Gardner. Several #7s were on display last time I looked (last week), and a couple of #8s. The shop doesn't add much in the way of markup to these tools, and you can examine them in your hand to see if it's what you want.

Jake typically deals in somewhat scruffy, but absolutely useable planes and other tools. "Scruffy" means the normal wear and grime you'd see on a tool, but not cracks, breaks and other problems that you may (or may not) see on e-bay tools.

Perfect!
I will check that out next time I on that side of town.
Thanks!

[Clint Barden]

Well......... I happened tofind my way to that side of town, and I happened to walk out of Klinspors with a #7. Tell me what y'all think........

It's a little grimey, but everything seems (to this novice) to be in good shape. There is a little wiggle in the tote, but the front screw should tighten that up. Pretty much all of the japaning is gone.

The blade has a very pronounced camber to it. I thought you should put a straight edge on a jointer plane?

http://i482.photobucket.com/albums/rr183/joe6packobeer/100_2861.jpg

The note on the tag says "Stanley #7-C, Type 11 (about 1910)-3 Pat. Dates on Casting. Considered by some craftsmen as Stanleys Best Issue"

http://i482.photobucket.com/albums/rr183/joe6packobeer/100_2865.jpg

http://i482.photobucket.com/albums/rr183/joe6packobeer/100_2866.jpg

http://i482.photobucket.com/albums/rr183/joe6packobeer/100_2867.jpg

I'd be interested to hear what y'all think the plane would be worth before I divulge what I paid for it.

Also, what would be the best thing to do to get the rust off of it. I'm thinking WD-40 and 0000 steel wool ought to be a good place to start.

[jerry nazard]

Good score, Clint! WD and steel wool would be a great start. You are correct about Type 11's: a very nice period for Stanley. You could have easily paid $75-95 + shipping on Ebay.

[Graham Hughes (CA)]

Don't try getting an old woodie. I love mine, but it took a ferocious amount of effort to fix up. If you can find a Stanley #7 in not obviously broken condition, get it. Put a Hock blade in it (maybe get a Hock cap iron, too, but test this first to make sure; some of the Stanley cap irons work fine and some of them are terrible. I got one of the latter on my #7). If you don't like the price of those (although they're inexpensive for what you get) I think Lee Valley offers plane blades. It'll work just fine. The blade replacement is helpful although not always necessary. Folks say that the best years for them are in the 20s or so, but I have a WW2 model (complete with stupid plastic adjusting wheel and no frog adjusting fork) and it took a relative minimum of effort to tune to very good working order.

Oh, yeah, and anything from a #6 to a #8 will work just fine. I have a corrugated #6 and a smooth #7 and honestly don't much notice the difference.

[Clint Barden]

Thanks. I paid about $115 with tax. So maybe a few more bucks than I could get on ebay, but I feel good about this one as it comes from a reputable source. I now have a sore shoulder from working on flattening the back of the blade, but I almost have it taken care of. Hopefully I will be honing the blade tomorrow night. I will give this blade a fair shake and if all else fails I will get a Hock blade.

[David Gendron]

I think, knowing what you paid for, I wouldn't say it's a great deal, but it is a great tool from what I can see!
As for the camber on the blade, I have a camber on all my plane irons, and if you have a chance to watch David Charlsworth dvd's, you will also think it make sense!

[jerry nazard]

Thanks. I paid about $115 with tax. So maybe a few more bucks than I could get on ebay, but I feel good about this one as it comes from a reputable source. I now have a sore shoulder from working on flattening the back of the blade, but I almost have it taken care of. Hopefully I will be honing the blade tomorrow night. I will give this blade a fair shake and if all else fails I will get a Hock blade.

I have had (knock wood) consistently great results with blades of that vintage. Looking at your photo of the mouth, I'm estimating that your mouth opening is a scant 3/16" (5/32?). If you indeed get a Hock blade, your mouth opening will be on the tight side and you can expect lovely .001 shavings all day long. A very nice tool - as I said before, you done good!

-Jerry

[David Keller NC]

Thanks. I paid about $115 with tax. So maybe a few more bucks than I could get on ebay, but I feel good about this one as it comes from a reputable source. I now have a sore shoulder from working on flattening the back of the blade, but I almost have it taken care of. Hopefully I will be honing the blade tomorrow night. I will give this blade a fair shake and if all else fails I will get a Hock blade.

Clint - Nice to hear you were able to get what you were looking for from Jake. The slight excess you paid over e-bay is the cost of making sure that you don't needlessly spend $75 on a plane with hidden damage. IMO, well worth being able to look the plane over in person - I've quite a few of Jake's tools.

A note about restoration - it's your plane, fix it up however you'd like. But do remember that such planes are generally worth less if they're "restored" - particularly if they've been scrubbed and re-painted. Flattening and sharpening the blade will do no harm, though you will want to stay away from the blade stamp at the top of the blade if you wish to preserve the plane's value.