Which Planer Brand to get ?

[David Genrich]

I am finally at the point where I would like to start using hand plans in conjunction with the power tools (final cleanup after the table saw, jointer, or planner).

From talking with others and some web research, it appears that the following planes would be a good, well-rounded start.

Jack Plane #5 1/2
Smoothing Plane #4
Low angle block plane #60 1/2

So, first question: Are these three planes a good base?

Second question: which brand? I have looked at Lie-Nielsen, Clifton, Veritas, Stanley, and others. Many people say Lie-Nielsen is the best, but then I have also heard that Veritas is designed better and cost slightly less. Stanley I have heard is good, but adjustment is difficult.

Totally confused - can anyone give me some guidance? What brand do you think is best and why? Which plane(s) should I be looking to get first?

Thank you very much for your time,

David Genrich
woodshaper@gmail.com

[Steve Cox]

For cleaning tool marks from a planer etc, a number 4 would probably be the best place to start. As to brand, I have used the Veritas and the Lie-Nielsen and both are excellent planes. Personally, I get by right now with an antique Stanley that has a Hock blade in it. If you are just getting started with hand tools I think this would be the best setup and certainly the cheapest.

For your first plane however, I would start with the low angle block plane. I have both an antique Stanley 60 1/2 and a Veritas and here I always reach for the Veritas. Others will tell you Lie-Nielsen and I have no problem with that but the Veritas is the best for me.

The 5 1/2 would be a good one for your third plane but I would hold off on it right now and get the other two first, learn to use them and then see where you want to go.

[Dave Anderson NH]

All planes from a variety of manufacturers can be made to work well. It comes down to what is available in the budget and/or how much work you are willing to put in fettling the planes. The new stuff From LN, LV, and Clifton will require the least work to set up and prepare for use. New Stanleys can be considered as kits along with Anant and a few others, but they too can be made to work well and they are considerably less expensive. Antique tools are another alternative as are the wooden planes from folks like Steve Knight and Clark & Williams.

For cleaning up the surface of boards run through a planer and jointer I think a #6 or #7 is a better choice than a 5 1/2 because the greater length will give you a straighter surface. The #4 sized plane is fine for the final smoothing. While a block plane like the 60 1/2 is great for all around use such as chamfering, cleaning up end grain, and the occasional fitting of parts, it is not really in the same league as the others. It is however one of the most useful of the bench planes and should be considered as part of your arsenal for that reason.

The most unfortunate part of your situation is that once you start acquiring and using the planes you will begin to see the need for others to fill in the gaps and allow you to do more.:D Folks are not kidding in the least bit when they describe the use of hand tools as a slippery slope. you will be amazed at how they improve the quality of your work.

[Bob Smalser]

Machine woodworker's very first planes should a shoulder plane followed by a low-angle block with adjustable mouth. Maybe a heavy smoother later, but not until you learn to use card scrapers.

The shoulder plane brings machine-cut joints to a dead perfect fit and the block is your apron pocket plane for all around trimming and easing. Both will pare end grain.

After you have those, you can acquire what you like....but the ones I mentioned are the ones to best compliment your woodworking now:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=13260&highlight=haunched

Exceptions include making things where planes predominate - like oars and spars.

Go to Cian's site and browse the plane rehab articles:

http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To.htm

If you have basic sharpening skills, there is absolutely no reason to not acquire old planes.

All that "hard-to-adjust" business is utter nonsense originating from folks trying to sell you something you don't really need...all planes are hard to adjust upwards, and tradesmen I grew up with who used them as part of their living never adjusted them but once per sharpening. If they needed two settings...they used two planes.

You can outfit yourself with an entire suite of prewar Stanley planes for the price of one L/N, if you are willing to study and commit yourself to some elbow grease.

Takes me only a couple hours to bring even the scruffiest planes to useability...the articles tell you what to look for in used planes and how to tune them.