Help? Cordless Circular Saws

[ana arguezo]

I am a industrial design student at Appalachian State University and I am re-designing the cordless circular saw for a project. Because of your expertise in the subject, I was hoping you would be able to help me by answering a few questions, if you don't mind?

Well here it goes...

Which is you favorite corded saw and what are specific reasons as to why you favor it over others?

Which is your favorite corded saw and what are specific reasons as to why you favor them over others?

If you could redesign your favorite cordless circular saw, what things would you add or take away from it?

Do you find a lot of complaints about circular saws being hard to use for left handed people?

What are the top things that most professionals look for when buying a circular saw?

Any other complaints of suggestions?

If you could help me with these that would be amazing. Thanks in advance, and have a good week! :)

[Van Huskey]

Add a removeable riving knife ala the Festool and Dewalt Tracksaws.

[Chuck Isaacson]

Make it plunge-able like the Festool or Dewalt tracksaw and make it to where it could ride on a track accessory.

[Mike Reinholtz]

I cut both right and left handed, until Porter Cable came out with a sidewinder for lefties I have always had to use a worm drive. My dad is left handed, which always made using a circular saw uncomfortable for him- thus unsafe.

Porter cable has an adjustable grip that rotates to whatever angle you are comfortable with, that is reason enough for me to buy another should something happen to mine.

I own an 18V Makita (model w/ 6 1/2" blade) and have to say unless you are cutting 1/2" or thinner sheet goods, it's just about useless. It would have taken less time to pull out a cord and find my worm drive Bosch than it took to make a 4' cut, and that was with a fresh battery. After playing with a neighbor's 28V Milwaukee, I'd say that's the voltage you should consider starting with.

Dust collection would be a nice touch too, especially with how simple it would be to add. During every cut I make with my Bosch worm drive I watch all the saw dust exit the blade guard and pile up behind the saw. Really, how hard would it be to add a 1" port right there going straight out the back.

[David Micalizzi]

Provide a adjustable stop for returning the base plate to cut square after making a bevel cut.

[Ellen Benkin]

What a great idea to ask people who actually use the tool for suggestions. I'd give you an A just for that.

My comments/complaints regarding circular saws relate to power (enough to actually do the job) and having good sight lines to see where I am cutting.

Good luck with your project and please post the results here so we can see them.

[Glen Butler]

The saw I have the most of is the Skilsaw Mag. This is because parts are easy for me to get. The saw I like most is the bosch 1677md http://www.boschtools.com/products/tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=1677MD
because it has the built in cord lock, the cord attaches directly to the back so you don't have to worry about about a knot in the cord 6 feet away, the plate is reinforced. Am am looking for a new saw currently and all the bosch's have a twisted plate. Accuracy is important to me and a twisted plate causes problems.

I am probably going to go with the Makita 5337MG http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?ID=24032
because the plate is flat and has a square edge, which allows me to run it along a guide easily. The adjustment lock levers seem better built.

The most important thing to me in a saw is the plate: Having it be stiff, flat, and square edges. Other things on the list include fluid adjustments and durable locking levers, and a built in saw hanger. Bosch has an excellent design with the way the cord plugs in, but that is less of a deciding factor.

I am left handed and have no problems using any style saw you put in my hands.

As far as cordless circular saws, it would be nice if the battery lasted longer, but I have no complaints to speak of. Mine is a Ridgid. It will cut microlam and hickory as well as you could expect. I use mine for small projects, where I may only need one recharge, or cutting down lumber at home depot so I can get it into my 4 runner.

[eugene thomas]

i use to own the dewalt 18 volt cordless saw but bought ridgid cordless dual power saw while ago. not work as good as dewalt with the 18 volt battrie. think the blade to big for the design of ridgid

[Eric DeSilva]

Are you wanting info re: cordless tools--per your subject line--or corded tools--per the text of the message?

[David Cefai]

One of my main problems has been lining up the saw for the cut. Ideally there would be an adjustable index mark at the front of the plate.

[Steve Rowe]

For a circular saw, it really depends on what you are using it for.

I use the Porter Cable 743 saw for framing. I am right handed but, when framing, I prefer using a saw with the blade on the left so it is much easier for me to see the line (particularly when cutting sheeting on a roof). Lightweight is important so magnesium based saws are a plus. You also don't want a saw that is overly expensive because if you drop it doesn't hurt as bad financially. Dust collection on this saw is horrible but, you really wouldn't want this for framing work anyway. For these instances,

For finish type work, I prefer the Festool plunge saw with guide track. The spring loaded riving knive, dust collection, easy depth of cut settings, and splinterfree cuts are a the best features with these saws. This saw has variable speed but, I never change it. The plunge action and safety interlock is pretty intuitive and easy to engage.

I have a Dewalt 18V cordless saw. This saw is horrible. It lacks power and has very poor battery life. The safety interlock is awkward to operate. It would probably be better if it had Li-ion batteries. This saw sits on the shelf since it is not a favorite.

Features to include in a new saw design are:

Riving knife that is spring loaded so you can plunge cut.
Light weight
Incorporate a clip to attach a rope to haul the thing up to the second floor or roof. (I have seen way too many people haul saws up by the cords).
Accurate and easy to adjust depth stops with scale as to the depth of cut.
Easy to change blade with a spindle lock that you don't have to hold in while operating a wrench, holding the saw, and holding the spindle lock.
Since you are working on a cordless design. More power and longer battery life. There is nothing more frustrating than being in the middle of a cut and having your saw bog down and die. Currently, I do not believe the battery technology is advanced enough for me to even consider a cordless circular saw.
From what professionals look for, I think that will vary widely depending on the application and who will be using the saw. When I worked on a framing crew, the boss purchased the least expensive saws he could. I asked about why he did this instead of buying the more expensive saws and he indicated the probablility of dropping the saw into a basement or off a roof as the reason.

Good luck with your design project.
Steve

[Paul Atkins]

I think this is what you are looking for. About cordless as you can get.

[ana arguezo]

Are you wanting info re: cordless tools--per your subject line--or corded tools--per the text of the message?

sorry it was a typo, i asked the same question for both tools, corded and cordless. Thanks!

[Rich Engelhardt]

I'd love to see some sort of single "power head" that would run a circ saw, drill/driver, small recip saw & offer a small chop saw accessory.

A "heavy duty" power take off so it could plug into a vehicle's electrical system would be nice also.

[Mike Rees]

I have the 18V DeWalt cordless. I use it exclusively w/ Nano batteries. I find it very light, easy to control, and fine for cutting sheet goods, 2x, or 1x lumber. I enjoy using it very much. The left blade design helps me line my cuts up easier too.