Using small blades with Laguna LT16HD bandsaw

[Alex Silva]

Hi all,

This is my 1st post !

I have a Laguna LT16HD bandsaw I've received 2 weeks ago and so far I like it a lot. I've installed a 5/8'' and a 1'' blade on it for resawing and ripping stock. However, I would like to know what is the best and cheapest solution in order to use smaller blades (less than a 1/4''). Laguna is asking 175$ for their cool blocks but is there any other way ? I already have the ceramic guides installed but those are too big for smaller blades.

Cheers,

Alex

[Van Huskey]

Can't help but I am interested also, their guides are GREAT but the ability to run 1/4" and smaller blades shouldn't cost THAT much.

[Greg Portland]

Get some dense wood and cut blocks in the shape of the guide blocks (basically square for the sides w. a bolt hole & round for the back). I use lignum vitae with my LT-18 but any hard wood should work. You will need to sand down the block face every few months. Some people soak the guides in WD-40 to limit burning but I have not tried that.

BTW, the concept of using wood blocks as guides is not new.

[David Winer]

I have a Laguna LT16HD bandsaw ... I would like to know what is the best and cheapest solution in order to use smaller blades (less than a 1/4'')....

Alex
There was a similar question a while back, and I pasted a couple of af the answers (suggestions) in a Word file for reference. Such files made from SMC posts have turned out to be very good reference materials. The comments I saved pertained to the MM16 saw. I did make up a pair of the suggested blocks from some ebony I had on hand, but haven't used them on a project yet.

Jim O'Dell said:
"As far as the guides for the MM bandsaws, and others with the Euro style guides, follow the information Sam Blasco gave us here a while back, and resurfaced recently by another Creeker, of using a block of oil soaked wood, or phenolic material, cut a kerf in it with the blade or with a hacksaw, and sandwich it between the euro guides from behind to hold it in place. Use the back bearing to keep the blade tracking in it's plane, and you have a quick change and the best of both worlds. I'm going to use this trick to get my MM E16 lower guides to support all blades underneath and closer to the table, as that is it's biggest design shortcoming. Jim"

Ken Fitzgerald said:
"The blade should track without touching the thrust bearing (rear bearing) when you are not cutting anything. The blade shouldn't engage the rear bearing until it's actually cutting.

I have a MM-16. With the saw UNPLUGGED...I open the upper door......I retention the blade and then spin the upper wheel by hand watching the tracking. I adjust it as necessary until the blade hangs of the the front side or outside of the upper tire. I want the gullet of the blade to not be on the tire. Once I am able to spin it by hand at a pretty good rate and it's tracking well. I close the door...plug the saw in and turn it on for about 3 seconds and shut if off. After the blade quits turning, I open the door and check the tracking. If it's still good, I close the door and turn the saw on for about 20 seconds. I then shut it off and check it one more time. If it is still tracking normally, I turn it on and cut wood."
__________________