tearout with beaded face frame jig

[Robert Reece]

I am thinking about making the this jig-
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base_images/zp/beaded_face_frame_fabrication_2.jpg



This picture comes from a thread on woodweb. I see that the maker of this jig has placed arrows on the jig indicating which way to run the router. The arrow on the right side of the jig will produce a climb cut on the router, which I assume is what you want to avoid tearout on that side of the bead.

Is this correct and is actually what will happen in reality?

[David Werkheiser]

Robert, I've used this type of jig for many years, however I make it so that it holds just 2 pcs. of material. The trick to prevent blowout is to do your hunches first, and than run the bead. I like your adjustable stop on the right side. You might want to look at the bits "Kreg" came out with, they have one that is 1 1/2" wide so that you can do the cut in one pass.
David Werkheiser

[Robert Reece]

Thanks Dave. Interesting idea to do the router operation first, then run the bead. However, there are some parts of my kitchen that I am going to apply the face frame to after cabinet installation, so I'll need to bead and paint them first, then they'll go through the jig. Hence I need no tearout. I am not sure I can accomplish all this, so I am going to do some tests using painted material. If I don't like the results, I'll rethink.

I did order the kreg bit, the 2" wide one. it was about $50, which I figured was worth it considering the other option is to modify a 45 degree chamfer bit. For $50, I'll just take the finished product.

I'll let everybody know how it goes once I play with it.

[David Werkheiser]

Robert, The reason to run your beads first is there is not any sacrificial wood backing up the bead, and parts of the bead will blow out. As I said before, I run both L+R stiles or rails as a pair so that mid stile or rail match up when the F/F is assembled.
Not sure I understand your finishing parts before assembly. I usually finish the F/F before I attach to the box just to make it easier to spray, I will also make a large F/F that will be attached on the job site that will encompass 2 or 3 boxes.
You said you ordered the Kreg 2" bit, are your stiles and rail widths 2"?
Next weekend there is a small W/W show I hope to get to and see the Kreg beaded face frame jig. If it works, I'm hoping it will speed up the process.
David

[Peter Quinn]

Robert, that looks like a climb cut both ways for that jig if I'm not mistaken. Doesn't it only control tear out on one side of the jack mitered opening? I haven't used this jig so not sure if I'm envisioning its use correctly. It seems regardless of how you orient the beaded stile you will risk a tear out on one edge or the other, no? Your bit will be trying to lift one edge or the other unless you run one side and flip the jig after the first pass relative to the face of the stile being milled. I would think jack mitering, then beading, then gluing, then finishing would produce the best results. If you orient the stock while still flat with the A face toward the jigs edge, the jig will act as a backer and prevent tear out.

I just read David's post and that is the best idea. Mill face to face so one acts as a backer for the other, and their placement is accurate as well. Add in a story pole of some sort for alignment and your flying!