The Best Jointer Plane you have ever used

[Brian Kent]

This is an afterthought to the threads on the best Smoother, Jack, and Block planes you have ever used.

What is the best Jointer Plane that you have ever personally used?

I do not expect much on this one because, unlike other planes, I would guess that most of us have not tried more than one or two jointers ever. They are specialized and expensive tools. Maybe somewhere someone has a collection. There must be reviews out there too. But let's see what happens.

[Brian Kent]

I have 2 jointers.

One is a Stanley #7 (who knows what type it is) that was given to me by a kind and friendly woodworker. I have used that for big surfaces. It worked fine on my work bench, but I had a lot of touch up to do after using it badly and making long tracks on a couple of other projects.

The other is a shop-made / Krenov style. It is beautiful and did not work. I took it to a Lie Nielsen event and showed it to Ron Hock. Between himself and a friend on sharpening stones, they found 7 of my mistakes and now it does well on jointing edges. Maybe this thread will give me a reason to work on sharpening and adjusting the #7 and getting more experience with the Krenov-style jointer so that I will have an opinion.

As of today - 2 jointers / no favorites.

Added note: on pieces under 2 or 3 feet, I like using my Lee Valley Bevel Up Jack as a small jointer plane. It does the job most reliably so for the moment I'll call it my favorite jointer (or jointer substitute).

[Chuck Tringo]

Veritas BU Jointer....like you mentioned however, the only one I have used. I chose it because of the ability to change out blades with the BU Smoother, and the LA Jack which I also use as a Jointer for short pieces. I also like the fence to guarantee square edges.

[Caspar Hauser]

To date my Record No 7. But for shorter stuff whatever is sharp, to hand and long enough.

[tyler mckee]

All i have ever used is an old union #7 that was once covered in rust and crud in my grandfathers garage. Cleaned it up and I can get a better edge than my 6" grizzly jointer.

[Sam Takeuchi]

I have two Stanley #7. One is type 9 that is used for surfacing and flattening. Another one is type 11 that's gone through surface grinder treatment. It is used for musical instrument soundboard/back jointing and they are both wonderful planes.

[Harlan Barnhart]

For what it's worth, my favorite joiner is my only joiner, a 607 Bedrock with a homemade tote and a big brass solder repair on the toe.

[Martin Cash]

Stanley 33.
Four inches longer than a number 8 and lighter.
Very easy to control and simply glides over the wood.
Ignore Patrick Leach, these are great planes.
MC

[Maurice Ungaro]

Record #7, but of course, it sports a Hock blade. Really want to get a Hock chip breaker for it though.

[Carl L Goff]

I only have one, it is a L-N #8. I just use it on long boards and it does a fine job for me but I haven't used any thing else.

[Mike Henderson]

Shop made, with a Hock iron.

[Oops, I was wrong - it has an older Buck Brothers iron.]

Mike

[Brian Kent]

Mike,

Any chance of getting a photo of that one?

Brian

[steve swantee]

I guess the best jointer I have used is my Stanley No8 Type 4 Prelateral. It has a full thickness 3/16" Lie Nielsen iron shoehorned into it, and with a 10-15 degree backbevel on the iron it will plane just about anything I've thrown at it so far.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=122150&thumb=1&d=1246547158 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=122150&d=1246547158)

Steve

[Jim R Edwards]

I have 5. Two type 11 #8's, a type 11 #7, a record #7, and a 26 inch Ohio Tool woody. I use the ohio tool and one of my #8's. I hardly ever use my #7's.

[Rick Erickson]

LN #8. I use to own a LV BU jointer and didn't like it.

[Paul Murphy]

Veritas Bevel-Up Jointer.

[Pam Niedermayer]

For a long jointer, the 30" C&W does it for me.

Pam

[Bill Houghton]

but my Stanley low-knob No. 8 is a pretty impressive piece of iron.

[Don Dorn]

Tuned Grizzly #7 (which is an exact Record copy) with a Hock blade and chipbreaker.

[Erik Manchester]

The best jointer that I have used is this Millers Falls 24 that is the equivalent of a Stanley No 8. I have a LV BU Jack that is very nice and I would like to get a BU Jointer when I have a bit more $$$ in my pocket.

Erik

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx344/beletuen/Tools/MillersFalls24.jpg

[Callan Campbell]

I have two, and they're such different animals as well. 1920's Stanley #8, and my brand new Lee Valley BU Jointer. I got the blades to match the Jointer and my other Veritas plane, just like others posted. Rick, now that you have the LN #8, what did you not like about the Lee Valley BU? I love my #8 Stanley, although if I have to work it for a great length of time, I may find it's the bear that people joke about[I've only done small amounts of work with it so far:rolleyes:]
Man, that wide iron and all that cast metal, it's quite a sight:)

[Brian Kent]

I have two, and they're such different animals as well. 1920's Stanley #8, and my brand new Lee Valley BU Jointer. I got the blades to match the Jointer and my other Veritas plane, just like others posted. Rick, now that you have the LN #8, what did you not like about the Lee Valley BU? I love my #8 Stanley, although if I have to work it for a great length of time, I may find it's the bear that people joke about[I've only done small amounts of work with it so far:rolleyes:]
Man, that wide iron and all that cast metal, it's quite a sight:)

And the winner is?

[Mike Henderson]

Mike,

Any chance of getting a photo of that one?

Brian
Here it is. I was wrong about the iron. I confused this plane with another I made. This one has an older Buck Brothers iron.

The plane is about 20" long. I put a sole of lignum vita on it. I also use this plane for shooting.

Mike

[Brian Kent]

Thanks mike. I like the lignum vitae sides too. It looks like a pretty low angle. Bevel up or down? The hatch marks look really practical too.

Great job.

[Andrew Gibson]

I have a Stanly #7 no clue what type. It was my Great Grandfathers.
I honestly have not used it on a project. It needs a new Iron to really be usable, the iron is badly pitted and I guess you would say warped as there is not a flat side on the back at all, I think I would lap through the middle before I get the back flat.

I hate you all because I really want to try a BU Smoother, Jack, and Jointer now, and I am now committed to ditch the SS sharpening method and get some water stones and learn to go freehand.

[Callan Campbell]

And the winner is?
Brian, I can't really chose as they're so different. But, I love the heft and iron size of the #8, so I guess it's my #1.

[Brian Kent]

Andrew,

I started the "Your Best Smoother" thread a couple of years ago because I wanted a really good one and had no money at the time. This gave me the target, when I had the money to buy or time and money to build.

Now you know what you want. Congratulations. You are half-way there. Let us know how it happens.

Brian

By the way, the LV Bevel Up Jack is listed on the list of best Smoother, Jack, and Jointer, so it is not a bad way to start!

Norton 1000 / 8000 waterstone - about $65.

[Mike Henderson]

Thanks mike. I like the lignum vitae sides too. It looks like a pretty low angle. Bevel up or down? The hatch marks look really practical too.

Great job.
It's bevel down and the bed is 35* (if I remember correctly - it's been a while since I made it). I used the low angle for when I use it as a shooting plane on end grain.

I tried to use a Hock blade but it was too short to be able to adjust it (because of the low angle the bed length is longer). It didn't stick up enough to be able to do the lateral adjustments easily. I had the Buck iron so I used that - and sold the Hock.

Mike

[David Gendron]

For me it as to be my Bed Rock 608c with Hock blade assembly! This plane Rock!!

[Adam Cherubini]

I've used many jointers and by far the best performing is the longest one. I have a 30+" long woodie and wouldn't trade it for the world. The other thing to look for is a wide cutting plane. If you want to match plane 6/4 stock for a table top, you need a blade that will cut close to 3" of stock. My old woodie has a 2-7/8" blade. If you aren't making long tables (like 6-8') you probably don't need a super long plane. But a long plane will be easier and faster to get the edge you want. And a wooden plane is beneficial in that you can make a long plane that won't weigh a ton.

I've been half teasing Rob Lee abotu building plastic planes. He recently wrote back and said the injection molds would be way too much money. And good plastic isn't cheap. But I think you could machine plastic pretty easily. If you could glue it and get good properties, you might be able to make a really great plastic jointer that wouldn't warp. I would think that would be a tough plane to beat.

Adam

[Tri Hoang]

I've own LN#7, a LV BU jointer, Knight, and a few other Stanley #7 but my favorite would be my Stanley #7 type 11 with LN blade/chip breaker. It's a great plane and fit my hands just right. It's the one I used the most.

[Andrew Gibson]

Andrew,

I started the "Your Best Smoother" thread a couple of years ago because I wanted a really good one and had no money at the time. This gave me the target, when I had the money to buy or time and money to build.

Now you know what you want. Congratulations. You are half-way there. Let us know how it happens.

Brian

By the way, the LV Bevel Up Jack is listed on the list of best Smoother, Jack, and Jointer, so it is not a bad way to start!

Norton 1000 / 8000 waterstone - about $65.


Yep I know they are on the lists, and after reading through those lists and researching all the planes I really want to give them a run. In other words your polls are doing exactly as you planned, I just need to work on increasing the disposable income... I am making a rocker for a friend. The revenue resulting from that project is already spoken for by some Norton stones and a saw or 2, and if I can swing it a plane, but I doubt that much dough will result.

[James Scheffler]

I have a Stanly #7 no clue what type. It was my Great Grandfathers.
I honestly have not used it on a project. It needs a new Iron to really be usable, the iron is badly pitted and I guess you would say warped as there is not a flat side on the back at all, I think I would lap through the middle before I get the back flat.

I hate you all because I really want to try a BU Smoother, Jack, and Jointer now, and I am now committed to ditch the SS sharpening method and get some water stones and learn to go freehand.

If it were me, I would keep the SS and use the money for a nice plane. If SS isn't giving you the results you want, try to figure out what the problem is. Depending on which stones you were looking at, you would likely be 3/4 of the way to a BUS or 1/2 the way to a BUJ. Sounds like you could really use a good jointer. Just my $0.02.

Jim

[David Keller NC]

Brian - I have (had) 6 jointers - a LN #8, a Record #7, a Spiers infill 22" long jointer (sold that one - the offer was too good to refuse), and 3 traditionally styled wooden beech jointers.

Of these, the one that gave the best surface finish was the Spiers. However, surface finish isn't really what I need out of a jointer, presuming that it doesn't tear out the wood too badly. I use one of the wooden jointers somewhat infrequently - typically when I've a lot of material to remove and the considerably lower work per stroke is an advantage.

Other than the wooden one, the LN #8 gets used on most every project.

[Randall Houghton]

Brian
I use a LN #7 as the frog and blade are interchangeable with my LN 41/2 and 5 1/2. I also use a HNT Gordon ironwood trying plane that works exceptionally well. I have a C&W trying plane as well but I find it to be very touchy in my climate. I use a lot of figured wood and find these all work well with little if any tearout.
Regards
Randy

[Jim Koepke]

Without having had the opportunity to use a lot of other planes, it can only be said that I am happy with my resurrected Stanley/Baley #7 type 7 and my #8 that is an in between type 6 and type 7 model.

The #8 is used for rough truing and the #7 is set up for lighter work.

If my memory is working the #8 currently has a Hock blade and the #7 is sporting an old Stanley blade. Not always sure what blade is in what plane as there are usually spares and what is sharp is what is used.

jim

[Tony Shea]

I've been wondering about the LV BU jointer plane and how it functions. I'd really like to get the LN #7 but just can't afford it. I know I like the bench plane style of planes. I've never used or even held a low angle BU plane before therefore don't know if I'd like them. What's everyone's experience with their BU planes compared to a bench plane style (bevel down)?

[Brian Kent]

Tony, I have one - the Lee Valley Bevel up Jack. I love it. I do not know how it would compare to a bench style bevel down jack that is as well made.

[Brian Kent]

Keep 'em coming and I'll keep updating the list. As you use this list, remember that many of us do not have multiple jointer planes. In some cases it is the best jointer plane you have used, and in others the only one used - but still liked. The "The Best Smoother / Jack / Block plane you have ever used" are more likely to have responses from people who have tried many.


Clark and Williams 30" wooden jointer
Grizzly #7, tuned & with Hock blade (copy of Record)
HNT Gordon Ironwood
Lee Valley / Veritas Bevel Up Jack as short jointer
Lee Valley / Veritas Bevel Up Jack as short jointer
Lee Valley / Veritas Bevel Up Jointer
Lee Valley / Veritas Bevel Up Jointer
Lie Nielsen #7
Lie Nielsen #8
Lie Nielsen #8
Miller Falls 24 (Stanley #8 equivalent)
Record #7
Record #7 with Hock Blade
Shop Made with Hock Iron
Spiers 22# Infill for best surface
Stanley #33
Stanley #7
Stanley #7 type 11 with LN blade/chip breaker
Stanley #8 - 1920
Stanley #8 (type 6 or 7) with Hock blade
Stanley #8 prelateral - 3/16" LN blade
Stanley / Bedrock #607
Stanley / Bedrock #608 with Hock Blade assembly
Stanley Low Knob #8
Stanley/Baley #7 (type 7) with Stanley Blade
Union #7
Woodie - 30+" long with 2-7/8" wide blade

[Chris Friesen]

I've been wondering about the LV BU jointer plane and how it functions. I'd really like to get the LN #7 but just can't afford it. I know I like the bench plane style of planes. I've never used or even held a low angle BU plane before therefore don't know if I'd like them. What's everyone's experience with their BU planes compared to a bench plane style (bevel down)?

I have the BU jointer. I bought it because it shares blades with the jack and smoother, so I can swap blades around depending on what I'm doing.

It'd be nice if the sides were fully machined, as that would allow it to be used on a shooting board. As it stands, I use the jack.

Chris Schwarz has mentioned that he likes the higher center of gravity of a bevel-down jointer since he thinks it gives him a better feel for when the plane is vertical. I wouldn't know, haven't used a bevel-down one except playing around at the wood shows. I haven't had any real problems, I just use a square to double-check and tweak things and I suspect I would with a bevel-down as well.

[Steve Dallas]

This is an afterthought to the threads on the best Smoother, Jack, and Block planes you have ever used.

What is the best Jointer Plane that you have ever personally used?

I do not expect much on this one because, unlike other planes, I would guess that most of us have not tried more than one or two jointers ever. They are specialized and expensive tools. Maybe somewhere someone has a collection. There must be reviews out there too. But let's see what happens.

ECE woodie - wedged, not with the Primus mechanism.

[James Taglienti]

Here is a cobbled together mutant of a plane... a Lakeside #7 with a sargent lever cap with mismatched knob and tote. I had it surface ground at a local machine shop and strapped a 386 Jointer fence onto it... it works like a dream, but in it's current configuration it's pretty dedicated as a jointer. I have never used a plane longer than a 5 1/2 to flatten a board - it seems excessive since wood can move in a matter of minutes and easily become much more than .001 out of flat over the 22" length of the plane. perhaps for something laminated like a benchtop it would be ok? I've bought and sold a bunch of 7's but always kept this ugly little guy because it's dead flat and the lakeside iron is a bit thicker than a stanley.

The picture makes it look about as ridiculous as a #55 but not in that cool "spaceship" way

[Tony Shea]

James, if you don't mind me asking about what does it run at your machine shop to flatten the sole of a plane that large? I have been contemplating doing a couple of my older stanley's but just assumed it wasn't worth it therefore never checked into it. It would be nice to have one of them flattened as there is now way I'm doing it with sandpaper. I hate flattening a block plane let alone something of significant length.

[Steve Friedman]

ECE woodie - wedged, not with the Primus mechanism.

Steve,

When you say "wedged, not with the Primus" are you saying that you prefer the wedge over the Primus? If so, can I ask why? I am thinking of getting the Primus jointer.

Thanks

[Steve Dallas]

Steve,

When you say "wedged, not with the Primus" are you saying that you prefer the wedge over the Primus? If so, can I ask why? I am thinking of getting the Primus jointer.

Thanks

Nothing wrong with the Primus adjuster.... I just like the simplicity of wedged wood planes. There's a relatively short learning curve with adjusting the iron but it's worth it.

I think ECE is the best value in wood planes out there.

[george wilson]

My favorite jointer is one I made in the 70's. It is 4" square,and about 30" long. I'd have to go measure it. The blade is 3/16" 01 steel.

It is a monster,but works very well.I used to have to plane the plough press at the book binder's shop. It was maple,and about 8" wide and 3' long. It holds books while the plough plane(which I made) cuts the edges of books nice and evenly.

I'd take the big plane over there and plane the big press in place.

This was before I became the toolmaker. I had no beech,but there was a big maple 4x4" in storage that was partially turned into a bed post on 1 end. It must have been at least 50 years old,and was very dense.After I made the plane,I stopped up the throat by clamping it against a piece of wood. Next,put painter's putty in the bottom of the mouth. Then,I filled the throat many times with raw linseed oil. This bled all the way through the plane out to both ends. It added to the mass,and made the plane very stable,and lubricated to slide easily.

P.S. I added some things,and corrected spelling. I was in a hurry when I posted this.

[James Taglienti]

Tony,
It was 25 bucks. The guy said he'd never grind a 7 or 8 again, but he'd do all the smoothers i wanted :D

[Prashun Patel]

Brian-
I'm resurrecting this thread. What did you end up getting? I am looking for a good jointing plane that'll be good on figured wood. My instinct is LV BU jointer, but I know there are others. I have a Stanley #7 with a Hock blade, but it's prone to tear out. I wonder if I should just put a steeper bevel or get a toothed blade for it???

[Brian Kent]

Prashun, I use my Stanley #7 most often and keep my Padauk home made job in the office as a display. But most often I use the Delta Drum Sander for anything that I can move.

[Chris Griggs]

I loved these threads (by that I mean Brians specific "Best [blank] you ever used"). I think they are what came up on google searches when I first got into handtools and led me to discover this place.

Lets all start reposting to these.

I only have one jointer. A Sargeant 424. Its very cool plane that I like owning,and works pretty well, though not remarkably in any way. Best jointer I've ever used....well, I sure did love the LN number 8 when I used it at a show. A good bit heavier than my jointer, but somehow better balanced and easier to use. If I was buying right now and money was not object, that's what I would get.

[Zach Dillinger]

My shop made 30" jointer, but my recently purchased 19" Scottish infill jointer is giving my plane a run for its money...

[Brian Kent]

Chris, could you post a photo of the Sargeant 424 sometime? I am not familiar with this one.
And thanks for the god word.

[David Weaver]

I hate to say it, but the LN 7 is the best jointer I've ever used (not because I have anything against LN, just because it would be nice to say something cheaper is as nice to use). It's not too heavy, but it's authortative. It's dead flat, the cheeks are square, and the iron holds an edge a very long time (like any good A2 iron) . It's the only premium plane I use regularly anymore, but it's so nice.

The most interesting jointer I've ever used is a single iron 28" long JT Brown jointer from the early/mid 1800s. Unfortunately, a blue dykem container dropped and ruptured several feet away and coated it with blue dykem.

[george wilson]

Then,your plane could be donated to the forthcoming Blue Plane Group. Soon to appear on TV.:)


Try leaving it in direct sunlight. Dykem will fade even in the bottle eventually. I have had that happen,and the bottles are only translucent white plastic. Might take a while. Be sure to rotate the plane at times. I'll bet it turns clear,eventually. Then,you'll only have a lacquered plane.

[Chris Griggs]

Chris, could you post a photo of the Sargeant 424 sometime? I am not familiar with this one.
And thanks for the god word.

Your wish is my command sir!

Its a Sargent VBM 424 (Sargeats version of the No. 8) made sometime between 1910 and 1918. I put up a thread about it when I first bought it....

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?174281-Ebay-Win-Part-2-VBM-424-The-Good-The-Bad-amp-The-Pudding

Its got some okay pics, but doesn't have any that are zoomed out enough to show the whole plane. I'll try to remember to get a couple zoomed out photos and repost.

[David Weaver]

Then,your plane could be donated to the forthcoming Blue Plane Group. Soon to appear on TV.:)


Try leaving it in direct sunlight. Dykem will fade even in the bottle eventually. I have had that happen,and the bottles are only translucent white plastic. Might take a while. Be sure to rotate the plane at times. I'll bet it turns clear,eventually. Then,you'll only have a lacquered plane.

Heated basement across from the garage shop has carpet on the floor (no padding, just carpet) and the dykem was at the top of the tool rack. You would figure that one of those plastic bottles could fall four or five feet onto the carpet (or even a hard floor) and not break, but that turned out to not be correct. The plastic bottle broke like ceramic around the top/lid and sprayed everywhere when it impacted.

I'll stick the plane on a windowsill, the dykem on it doesn't bother me so much, but it sure would make it hard to dump the plane if I ever decide to. Thanks for the tip.

[george wilson]

These miserable plastic bottles,depending upon what plastic they are made of,can get old and brittle and nearly just fall apart. I wish Dykem and Starrett would have just stuck to screw top tin cans. I'd gladly pay the extra few cents. Cheaper than buying new dye,but maybe they planned it that way. I could outfox them by just adding lacquer soluble powdered dye. I do have to make my own shading lacquer these days. It used to be available nice and dark in gallon cans. Now all I see are those faintly stained aerosols. Maybe I haven't dug deeply enough. Easy to just make it,though,and my dyes are museum approved Orasol very light fast dyes. The old Sherwood Wms. stuff would fade.

Better take the iron out of your plane if it fits snug sideways. The plane could split if it shrinks much,or make it difficult to get the iron out.

[David Weaver]

All of them were snug like that when I got them (all of my wooden planes). Of course, I didn't buy any that had already split but some of them were a bear to get out.

[David Dalzell]

I have 4 jointers: Stanley Baily #7, 2 Krenov style, and one narrow Krenov style for edge jointing shop cut veneers. Of these my favorite is one of the Krenov types made of Purpleheart. It just seem to glide over the wood with a sweet sound and is very easy to adjust.

[Jason Coen]

my recently purchased 19" Scottish infill jointer is giving my plane a run for its money...

No, no need to post pics. We'll just imagine what it looks like...

:p

[David Weaver]

No, no need to post pics. We'll just imagine what it looks like...

:p

As beavis would say...Sproinnggggg!

Look for "BM12126 Craftsman Made" here:

http://www.thebestthings.com/infill.htm

[Zach Dillinger]

As beavis would say...Sproinnggggg!

Look for "BM12126 Craftsman Made" here:

http://www.thebestthings.com/infill.htm

Yep, that's the one! I love the plane, and Lee's customer service. Highly recommended.

[David Weaver]

Sorry to air your dirty laundry, Zach. I can't believe you're using a plane with metal on it....it's like airing your dirty business or something!

[Zach Dillinger]

Sorry to air your dirty laundry, Zach. I can't believe you're using a plane with metal on it....it's like airing your dirty business or something!

Bah, no problem. I've just never found a metal plane worth using until these. That all changed a while ago, when Lee talked me into a Scottish panel plane and then this darn jointer. I especially like them because they adjust like a wooden plane (minus the striking of the body, of course). They are lovely, lovely tools, but I still use my wooden planes quite often.

[Jason Coen]

As beavis would say...Sproinnggggg!

Look for "BM12126 Craftsman Made" here:

http://www.thebestthings.com/infill.htm

Oh.....my. I'll be in my bunk....

[steven c newman]

Just an old type 9 number 8c. Seems to do alright...250666 @ about ten pounds in weight, not much will stop it on the way to the end of a board.

[Jack Curtis]

I have three favorites, all wooden. Depending on the length of the piece I use either the C&W/Old St 30" old version (wider and heavier than the new) or the Mosaku for shooting and edge joinery (work of Mo, Hon Red Oak) or the HNT Try for short work.