Band saw bearing replacement?? Delta 14" 28-276

[Jack Wilson]

I have a new Delta BS and the upper wheel bearings are unacceptably stiff. Note that it has never really been used as I have not been happy with its vibration level. Upon removal of the upper wheel I discovered scoring in the center spacer (part#10) between the 2 outer race bearings, (both parts # 8).

I want to replace the bearings and ream out the spacer slightly, but I don't know if I can just press the bearings out from any one side, or if there is some shoulder in the center which would prevent this.

Please advise.

[Myk Rian]

Isn't the saw under warranty?
I would ask Delta before tearing it apart.

[Jack Wilson]

Isn't the saw under warranty?
I would ask Delta before tearing it apart.

Yes it is under warranty, however in order for the warranty to be in effect I must bring the entire machine, sans motor and base, in to the repair center, not just the top wheel.

[Chris Harry]

Something Ive done with the engines on my RC vehicles:

Heat up the wheel bearings and all....either throw it in an oven (hint: wait until the significant other isnt home when you do it :) ) or heat up the bearing area with a heat gun. After a little while of heating up try tapping the wheel on the ground and see if the bearing pops out.

Note Im not sure if this will distort the wheel or not......Im guessing it wont, but thats the only easy way I can think of removing the bearings without needing a press. I dont know if there is a ridge in the center of the wheel, so I would operate under the assumption that the bearings need to go out towards the outside of each side of the wheel.

-Chris

[Jack Wilson]

Thanks Chris, I'll try the oven deal as I don't have a heat gun but do have an oven. My wife is pretty much used to all my crazy ideas!

[Paul Steiner]

I have had luck pulling the bearings with a wheel/bearing puller. I spray it with wd-40 or pb blaster and let it sit for 10 minutes, repeat if needed. Then pull the bearings with a puller. The puller from grizzly works well, its like 20 bucks. I would worry about heating it and then how it cools. But if you must heat it I would heat the entiire thing in the oven.

[Jack Wilson]

I have had luck pulling the bearings with a wheel/bearing puller. I spray it with wd-40 or pb blaster and let it sit for 10 minutes, repeat if needed. Then pull the bearings with a puller. The puller from grizzly works well, its like 20 bucks. I would worry about heating it and then how it cools. But if you must heat it I would heat the entiire thing in the oven.

So then, to be clear, the bearings are absolutely NOT pressed out, but pulled out.? Additionally, there is a set screw in the back side of the upper wheel hub, what is its purpose?

Thanks.

[Pete Bradley]

I wouldn't put the wheel in the oven. I think it's unlikely that you need bearings on a machine this new. It takes a really bad bearing to make the wheel noticeably stiff when you turn the wheel because there's so much leverage. Finally, I'm not sure what you mean by "scoring in the spacer" but since the spacer doesn't turn it really shouldn't matter as long as it fits.

Since this machine is under warrantee, it's worth calling Delta as it should have been ready to run when you got it. No sense giving them a free pass on quality.

For DIY diagnosis I suggest:
1. now that you have the wheel off, turn each inner race by hand to see if the bearings turn smoothly. Note that the grease offers some resistance in a good bearing, don't expect to be able to have them spin freely. If they're good, don't bother replacing.
2. Reassemble and check for an assembly problem like one of the washers bearing on both the inner and outer race at the same time. This is very likely the cause of the stiffness.
3. If nothing is dragging, apply gentle taps to the wheel near the center to seat the bearings. Sometimes a bearing gets a tiny bit sideways during installation and creates a lot of load.

If you absolutely must get the bearings out, they must be tapped out from the inside with a punch or screwdriver. You'll just barely be able to catch the bearing with the tip. Tap gently all the way around. Be careful not to damage the snap rings in the middle. This operation will likely damage the bearings, so try the above first or have replacements on hand. To replace, be sure to press only on the outside race. A piece of pipe or a big socket sized so that it only touches the outer race (not the seal!) can be used to help tap the race into place. I've included a couple of pictures of removal from OWWM.

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z167/allenn1006/bansaw%20uppr%20wheel%20bearings/PVCsupport02.jpg
Supported on a piece of PVC pipe.

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z167/allenn1006/bansaw%20uppr%20wheel%20bearings/anglethepunch.jpg
The bottom bearing is being tapped out here, not the one in view.

[Dick Strauss]

Jack,
You can take the arm bolt off and remove the whole upper wheel assembly without too much work. I think it might weigh 50-60 lbs IIRC.

[Myk Rian]

I think it might weigh 50-60 lbs IIRC.
Or less. Not heavy at all.

[Jack Wilson]

Jack,
You can take the arm bolt off and remove the whole upper wheel assembly without too much work. I think it might weigh 50-60 lbs IIRC.

Ok, I see what you are saying, 4 bolts and it's away, it weighs maybe 5 lbs. I took it off and brought that in with the upper wheel. No worrys mate, they will warranty it! Hopefully that will equal a smoother running saw.