Help with cutting thin boards from thick.

[Jack Gaskins]

I need 1/16 to 1/8 inch thin boards. What would be the best way to cut them from a thicker board? Resaw on a bandsaw then sandout the kerf marks or run through a planer or over a jointer?? Use a table saw?? I want to cut up thin boards for laminating.

[Glen Butler]

I think you pretty much answered your own question. Resaw. Then run through the planer. You will need to use double stick tape and a piece of particle board when running it through the planer. I say particle board because tape sticks to it better than MDF or ply.

[Bruce Page]

I would face joint, resaw and plane.
Repeat as needed.

[Jack Gaskins]

I think you pretty much answered your own question. Resaw. Then run through the planer. You will need to use double stick tape and a piece of particle board when running it through the planer. I say particle board because tape sticks to it better than MDF or ply.


Thanks for the tip on using a backer board for planning a thin strip, I would have thought of that. Now I just need to buy a planer.

[Glen Butler]

Do we need to come up with a different method so you don't have to buy a planer. I just assumed you had one. Maybe you are better on the bandsaw than myself, and sanding would work.

[Jack Gaskins]

Do we need to come up with a different method so you don't have to buy a planer. I just assumed you had one. Maybe you are better on the bandsaw than myself, and sanding would work.


Sanding is a last resort. I am currently looking for a planer. I was going to get a DW734 but I think I am going to try and find a DW735.

[Peter Quinn]

You didn't mention the other dimensions of your strips. how wide, how long? The TS with a glue line blade might work for some strips with the right set up. The jointer is a poor way to smooth the second face of a thin veneer. Even 3/8" material can be dicey, 1/16" over the jointer is foolish IME. And the planer is only a small step up. Have you ever seen an 1/8" strip blow up in a planer? Sticking to a backer may work, but the hard part is finding a tape that will hold the veneer to the board AND give it up after the stock is run. It tends to break up at that thickness, so test pieces are in order to verify your species and thickness will in fact work that way. My own results have been mixed at best doing ti that way.

My favorite method is BS and drum sander for speed, but I'd guess if you don't have a planer then no drum sander yet either? Worth considering if you get to doing a lot of this. A close second is BS and smooth plane. You may get a little tear out with the hand plane, but you won't get any explosions, and its not dangerous nor expensive.

[Dino Makropoulos]

I need 1/16 to 1/8 inch thin boards. What would be the best way to cut them from a thicker board? Resaw on a bandsaw then sandout the kerf marks or run through a planer or over a jointer?? Use a table saw?? I want to cut up thin boards for laminating.

Jack,
Thin kerf blade and a combo setup. ( homemade or not)
Edge jointing-cut the strip/edge jointing and cut again.

You can get an idea from this video and you can ask the user for more hints.
How thick are the boards? How long and how many?

When the board becomes narrow, you need to use another board next to the narrow piece and always against a solid stop.
This is what we call the Dead Wood Concept.
Is all about material support and tool positioning.

Here you can see an example of a simple setup
that we can use as a SLR saw, edge jointer, rip saw and routing.
Enjoy.:cool:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1079fqpmrA

[Chip Lindley]

Thats the great thing about woodworking! The same results can be had by many different means, depending on the tools at hand.

Thin wood can be ripped on the table saw. Best way is to rip half way through, then flip to finish the cut. I would prefer to bandsaw thin strips.

Whether you use TS or BS, the surface will need cleaning up. Veneers up to about 3" wide can be sanded on a tapered disc on the TS. The stock is fed between the disc and the fence. These tapered sanding discs are available from Woodworker's Supply and others.

Many shop-made drum sanders have been conjured up. Do a Google search for "shop made drum sander" and get an idea of how-to.

[Chad Stucke]

I would use the bandsaw then sand.
unless you are less than about 3" high the ts is pretty stable.
Chad

[Kyle Iwamoto]

There was a recent post "table saw jig". Hope the link works. If not, search the last few days and find that thread.

http://i46.tinypic.com/b6vz0y.jpg

[Mike Heidrick]

I owned a 734 and it was great and I never had issues with blades dulling fast like many 735 owners. Just FYI. Its a screamer though!

[jim gossage]

You will get the least waste with a bandsaw and a think kerf blade. I use a 1-1/4" laguna resaw king carbide blade and the cut is clean enough for lamination glue up as long as you have the bandsaw properly tuned.

[Myk Rian]

I would face joint, resaw and plane.
Repeat as needed.
That's how I do it.

[Paul Atkins]

There is quite a difference between a 1/2" wide 'board' and a 15" wide board. What is the material? Quartered White oak would be a lot different than basswood. I'd bandsaw and sand to thickness in any case. You couldn't run a bunch of 3 inch long boards through a wide belt though.

[Jack Gaskins]

You didn't mention the other dimensions of your strips. how wide, how long? The TS with a glue line blade might work for some strips with the right set up. The jointer is a poor way to smooth the second face of a thin veneer. Even 3/8" material can be dicey, 1/16" over the jointer is foolish IME. And the planer is only a small step up. Have you ever seen an 1/8" strip blow up in a planer? Sticking to a backer may work, but the hard part is finding a tape that will hold the veneer to the board AND give it up after the stock is run. It tends to break up at that thickness, so test pieces are in order to verify your species and thickness will in fact work that way. My own results have been mixed at best doing ti that way.

My favorite method is BS and drum sander for speed, but I'd guess if you don't have a planer then no drum sander yet either? Worth considering if you get to doing a lot of this. A close second is BS and smooth plane. You may get a little tear out with the hand plane, but you won't get any explosions, and its not dangerous nor expensive.

Your right about not having a drum sander. All I have is a 14" band saw (for which i just purchased the riser block for now just need to resaw blades) a General International contractors table saw and just today purchased a brand new Dewalt 735 planer from a fellow creeker. I do have a couple of hand planes buy they need some restoration (got them off ebay).

[Jack Gaskins]

You didn't mention the other dimensions of your strips. how wide, how long? The TS with a glue line blade might work for some strips with the right set up. The jointer is a poor way to smooth the second face of a thin veneer. Even 3/8" material can be dicey, 1/16" over the jointer is foolish IME. And the planer is only a small step up. Have you ever seen an 1/8" strip blow up in a planer? Sticking to a backer may work, but the hard part is finding a tape that will hold the veneer to the board AND give it up after the stock is run. It tends to break up at that thickness, so test pieces are in order to verify your species and thickness will in fact work that way. My own results have been mixed at best doing ti that way.

My favorite method is BS and drum sander for speed, but I'd guess if you don't have a planer then no drum sander yet either? Worth considering if you get to doing a lot of this. A close second is BS and smooth plane. You may get a little tear out with the hand plane, but you won't get any explosions, and its not dangerous nor expensive.

The strips Im looking to make are face grain and 1/16-1/8" thin and approx 3"-6" wide by 36" long or longer.

[Jim Becker]

I would face joint, resaw and plane.
Repeat as needed.

Yup... exactly how I do it.