Tite-Mark Compared to Veritas Wheel Gauge

[Jim Koepke]

Not too long ago I asked about the difference between the Veritas and the Glen-Drake Tite-Mark wheel gauges.

Most people did express a preference for the Tite-Mark over the Veritas. There was not much explanation other than "it worked better."

Since then, I have acquired one of each.

There is an old Stanley #97 marking Gauge in the image just because there happened to be one close at hand.

143297

One point of confusion for some on these gauges is they are often referred to as wheel gauges or "pizza cutter" gauges. The wheel does not turn as the tool is scribing. They are named for the shape, not the function.

The Veritas is less expensive and has about an inch more length in the rod supplied with the basic unit. The Tite-Mark is available with a 9" rod and numerous other accessories to enhance its capabilities.

For the nitty gritty of the differences.

The Veritas marking gauge has an adjustment feature that first requires the tool head to be locked on the rod by tightening a knurled nut on a locking collet. My experience trying to do this one handed resulted in not getting the knurled nut fully tightened leading to slippage later. To perform a micro adjustment the large wheel then has to be turned. This can be done with one hand, but is difficult at best. The guide head is then locked with a knurled screw. The Veritas gauge has an O-ring internally to keep it from freely sliding on the shaft when the collet is not tightened. The only thing to keep the gauge from rolling off of a bench is the weight of the thumb screw. If it was a bit longer, it could actually work to deter rolling.

The Tite-Mark is locked with a thumb screw. Then a knurled cylander is turned to make fine adjustments. Finally, another thumb screw is turned to lock the setting. There is a plastic set screw to allow the user to set the free sliding tension of the head on the shaft. Another feature of the Tite-Mark is one thumb screw is long enough to keep the gauge from rolling more than one revolution when it is set down. The Tite-Mark is very easy to set completely one handed.

Specifications:

Tite-Mark total standard shaft is 7-1/4 inches. The total adjustment range of the micro adjuster is a little bit more than 3/4 of an inch.

Veritas shaft length is 8 inches. The total adjustment range of the micro adjuster is a little bit more than 7/32 of an inch.

Since one would normally start with the micro adjustments in the center of their respective ranges this would make the Veritas correction ability to be about 1/16 of an inch compared to the Tite-Mark's 3/8 of an inch.

I did not measure the threads. The threads for the micro adjustment of the Veritas are finer than the threads on the Tite-Mark. I do not see this as being an important difference. Over time, it could be a big inconvenience to have to make a full turn to make a 1/32 inch change. There is also the difference in the range of adjustment. Being able to move more could be helpful in many situations.

The Tite-Mark is a little more than twice the cost of the Veritas.

The Tite-Mark definitely feels like it is a lot more than twice as easy to use than the Veritas.

A tool that is more comfortable to use and is easier to use is more likely to be used.

jim

[Eric Brown]

Very good comprison. Are you going to get all the accesories? I know that Glen-Drake also makes a mini, but they don't list it on their website. It looks good too.

Eric

[Mark Buchanan]

Jim

Thank you for that great review. I have been looking at the Tight Mark on line and now I understand why the extra money spent will be worth the investment.

Mark

[Matt Benton]

Jim,

I'd be willing to bet the most important difference affecting why the TiteMark works better is the one measurement you didn't take: the difference in weight...

[Tony Zaffuto]

I had a Veritas and never really got the hang of it. Bought a Tite-Mark and worked well immediately, so I sold the Veritas. I've got to say that LV sells a small brass 3-in-1 gage that works very, very well. Cost is less than $20.00 (I have one), and I use it as much as any marking tool I have.

[John Coloccia]

I have the non adjustable one and am generally happy with it. I've been considering picking up a Tite-Mark though. This is helping make up my mind. I really want two anyway for mortising. I tried the double wheel style, and I really don't care for it at all.

[Tony Zaffuto]

I had a Veritas and never really got the hang of it. Bought a Tite-Mark and worked well immediately, so I sold the Veritas. I've got to say that LV sells a small brass 3-in-1 gage that works very, very well. Cost is less than $20.00 (I have one), and I use it as much as any marking tool I have.

[Mike Henderson]

I've had a couple of Lee Valley marking gauges for years and never had any real problems with them. It does take two hands to operate them, but I never really found that to be a serious problem. I'm usually taking my setting off a piece of wood held in a vise, or off a ruler (scale). For things like dovetails, I generally set the gauges once, at the beginning of the operation.

Based on comments here on the forum, I just recently bought a Tite-Mark but I haven't really had a chance to use it much. It is a well made tool, but expensive.

If I was making a recommendation to a beginner with a limited budget, I'd recommend the Lee Valley gauge. For someone with greater finances, or someone who's going to use the gauge a lot, I'd probably recommend the Tite-Mark (subject to my experience in using it).

My opinion: If you feel it's important to make the adjustments with one hand, you should buy the Tite-Mark. If you feel you can use two hands to make the adjustments, you should save the money and buy the LV. Beyond that, they seem to work the same.

I just checked the prices. At Lee Valley the marking gauge is $35.50 ($71 for two). The Tite-Mark at Highland Woodworking is $89.99 ($179.98 for two). The difference in price is $54.49 or $108.98 for two. This is excluding shipping at both places.

Mike

[Note: for doing dovetails, especially half blinds, it's really nice to have two gauges so you don't have to keep adjusting one. That makes the cost difference pretty significant - not in percent, but in $.]
[Let me add another comment regarding the amount of adjustment on the Lee Valley. What I do is set the fine adjustment to one end, then set the gauge a bit short and use the fine adjustment to come to the final setting. That way, you get the full adjustment range. But in any case, you can come pretty close with your first coarse setting and only use the fine adjustment to get the exact setting. After all, our ancestors (and many modern users) didn't have fine adjustments and were able to use marking gauges (but I do find the fine adjustment nice, and it makes it easier to get an exact setting).]

[Jim Koepke]

I will have to reply later as I am trying to get breakfast and head up to Seattle before having to pick up the wife at the airport. Hope to be able to stop in at the Tool Event for a quick look.

jim

[John Coloccia]

After all, our ancestors (and many modern users) didn't have fine adjustments and were able to use marking gauges (but I do find the fine adjustment nice, and it makes it easier to get an exact setting).]

I have to say I'm with you on this. I never really have a problem getting the exact setting with the Veritas guage. The o-ring friction is just perfect, and the whole thing is silky smooth. The main reason I'm considering the Tite-Marks is that the Veritas keeps rolling off my bench. I've already had to replace the little wheel on it once because I bent it out of shape. The microadjustment's nice and I'd like to try the Tite-Mark just because I don't have one, but the Veritas without the micro adjuster works very very well.

[Jim Belair]

I filed a flat spot on the round fence and now my Veritas sits on the bench just fine. The fine adjust is admittedly a bit finicky but find I don't need the fine adjust often. I seem to be able to change the setting and then secure the lock screw with one hand so I'm happy with it. I will end up getting a smaller one but haven't decided on 3-way brass one or another.

Jim B

[Don C Peterson]

I have had the LV (non-micro adjust) marking tool for maybe four years or so, and other than breaking the marking wheel when it rolled of my bench, have had no problems with it.

I have never felt like I needed a micro-adjust function for practical reasons. Now, the "gadget guy" part of me does really want one, just because I think they are cool, but so far the more practical, budget conscious me has won out...

[Don Dorn]

Count me as one who doesn't care for the Veritas wheel gauge. I bought the smaller 3 in 1 brass gauge and like it MUCH better. I'm sure I'd love a Tite-Mark but the 3 in 1 works well enough that I can't justify it.

[dan sherman]

I think the main reason the Tite-Mark is more expensive, is because it looks to be turned from solid bar stock. Large diameter brass round stock will make your wallet a lot lighter.

Jim how big around is the face of the Tite-Mark?

[David Gendron]

Thank you Jim for the write up! I had my Tite-Mark for a month now and it is a better tool than the Veritas. That said, the Veritas is a good tool, just not as well tought out as the Tite-Mark.

[John A. Callaway]

I too am new to the marking gauge/wheel .... I have the LV micro adjust. I never used one before this one, and as soon as I took it out the package the first time it has worked fine. I looked around Highland the day I purchased mine to see if I could check out the titemark, but I didnt see it. Even still, something is gonna really have to aggravate me to make me put down the LV gauge for me to plop down almost a hundred bucks to replace a fully functional, well made tool that cost me only 40 dollars. So far, that hasnt that hasn't happened. It locks in place fine, feels good in my hand, and if it ever comes to me needing or finding convenience in having a second gauge, I will buy another LV ... and still have spent less for two of them versus one titemark.

Don't get me wrong, a well made tool should cost money, and I can certainly appreciate that.

I guess its one of things situations where you don't know how good something is till you try it for yourself. Who knows, I may try out a titemark one day and be blown away.... but as it is now... I am not blown away enough to say a hundred bucks is worth it to replace a really nice tool that works great.

I solved the rolling problem by drilling a small hole on the back vertical wall of my tool tray a little bigger than the rod. Just laying it in the tool tray annoyed me a bit.

[Kent A Bathurst]

........The Tite-Mark is a little more than twice the cost of the Veritas.

The Tite-Mark definitely feels like it is a lot more than twice as easy to use than the Veritas...........

Jim -

You. Just. Ain't. Helping. My. Wallet. Stop. It.

:p
Kent

[Brian Kent]

Jim, do you know how to sharpen a wheel? I have a plain and simple one from Rockler, which would be fine with me for now if the edge was sharp.

[John Coloccia]

I just lap mine. Straight down on a stone and rub. If you wanted to be sure everything was dead straight and aligned with itself, you could probably put the face of the tool on stone, move the wheel until it touched too, and lapped everything together. Then you'll always be straight so orientation won't matter on subsequent marks. I just unscrew mine and rub it.

edit: just wanted to mention something. The new Veritas cutting wheel has a recessed screw, like the Tite-Marks, so I COULD sharpen it without unscrewing it. I just find it difficult to hold it straight, that's all.

[Tom Henderson2]

I think the main reason the Tite-Mark is more expensive, is because it looks to be turned from solid bar stock. Large diameter brass round stock will make your wallet a lot lighter.

Jim how big around is the face of the Tite-Mark?

And it is 100% made here in the USA.

Kevin Drake has been at the last couple of LNTW handtool events in Oakland, and he is a very innovative guy. His stuff is really, really well made, and it works quite well. First class stuff.

-TH

[Jim Koepke]

I am not sure about a lot of the extras since I already have about a half dozen other marking gauges including a nice mortise gauge.

The Tite-Mark is almost 1-5/8 inches in diameter, the Veritas is about 1-3/4 inches in diameter.

As I recall, the Lee Valley site has instructions for sharpening the wheel. Just work the flat side on a stone.

I was talking to Kevin Glenn-Drake in Seattle today and he was saying his wheels used to fit on the Veritas marking gauges. Then Veritas changed the screw size and his would no longer fit.

I was mentioning that it seemed possible to use the adjustment ability of the Tite-Mark to set different marking set ups using the adjustment collar. His reply was he didn't want to push that a whole lot because he wants people to have a reason to buy a second and third gauge.

jim

[dan sherman]

The Tite-Mark is almost 1-5/8 inches in diameter, the Veritas is about 1-3/4 inches in diameter.


Assuming Kevin buys his raw materials in bulk (8' bars), and over-sized (1-3/4"), it would cost him ~$3.25/in. for 360 brass (plain jane), and around $7/in. if he used something like 464 naval brass.

I don't know Kevin's set up, but if it was me I would probably use a 2" long slug just to make the head. Add in some smaller diameter round for the fine adjustment, and some tool steel for the rod,and he's probably got $15 -$25 tied up in just the raw materials.

[Jim Koepke]

Assuming Kevin buys his raw materials in bulk (8' bars), and over-sized (1-3/4"), it would cost him ~$3.25/in. for 360 brass (plain jane), and around $7/in. if he used something like 464 naval brass.

I don't know Kevin's set up, but if it was me I would probably use a 2" long slug just to make the head. Add in some smaller diameter round for the fine adjustment, and some tool steel for the rod,and he's probably got $15 -$25 tied up in just the raw materials.

He could make a little back by selling the scrap back for recycling.

jim

[Richard Dooling]

+1 on the Lee Valley 3-in-1 gauge.

At $23.50 it's a great bargain. It is currently my favorite but I very well may buy a Tite-Mark eventually based on the almost universal praise.

I have a no-name wheel gauge now that has just never felt right.

Thanks for another great review Jim.

.

[Kelly Springs]

The main reason I'm considering the Tite-Marks is that the Veritas keeps rolling off my bench.

Stick it in your doghole given that you have 3/4" holes. It won't go anywhere then. :)

Kelly

[Tom Henderson2]

He could make a little back by selling the scrap back for recycling.

jim

Return on scrap will be pennies on the dollar.

Kevin Drake is manufacturing a very high-precision device, and doing it here in the USA. The materials and workmanship are all first class.

I'm amazed that he can keep the prices as low as he has.

-TH

[Dave Anderson NH]

There is a simple sharpening method which works with all of the wheel type marking and cutting gages. I use my drill press, but an electric drill corded or cordless will work just as wel if you clamp it in a vise. Take the shaft off of the fence and chuck it up. Set the drill or press for a relatively slow speed, 400 rpm works for me, and apply the sharpening media of your choice to the beveled side of the disc needing to be sharpened. A light touch on the flat side after honing the bevel removes the burr and presto, you are done. It took me longer to type this than it does to do the sharpening.

[Eddie Darby]

Great review. Thanks!

I keep my gauges from rolling around by putting them down inside a thick rubber band.

You could also grind a flat spot on the edge if you wanted to keep it from rolling without affecting the performance.

[Larry Gelder]

Thanks for the sharpening tip Dave. I just bought a Stanley #97 & #98. Is is easy to remove & replace and/or sharpen the scracth pin?

Larry

[Jim Koepke]

Is is easy to remove & replace and/or sharpen the scrath pins?

I use a file on mine. I will have to look at my #98 and see if it is easy to remove the pins.

jtk

[Larry Gelder]

Thanks Jim. Some of my pins are blunt.

[Derek Gilmer]

I have the lee valley wheel gauge and really enjoy using it. I haven't had the pleasure of getting a tite mark though so I can't compare. However $89 for a US made product vs $30 for a Canada made tool was a no brainer for now. Hopefully I'll get to try a tite mark at a convention or show and see what all the fuss is about.

[Jim Koepke]

Larry,

Just looked at my #98 marking gauge. It looks like the pins are press fit. It may be possible to drive them out with a little care and a 1/16" pin punch. If there is any length left, you may be able to just advance the pin a little to give enough to shape and use to mark.

If this were something I was doing I would likely find an old drill that could be sacrificed to make a replacement.

My preference it to use the wheel end as it seems to give a better line to follow than the pins.

jtk

[Joe Williams]

I know this is an ancient thread but wanted to chime in, I just bought the tite-mark long deluxe after having the regular tite-mark for a while. I own two Veritas guages, the double and single. It hurts to pay what we do to get American made artisan tools but it's a lifetime investment. The new tite-mark looks like a piece of jewelry, clearly someone cares about how that tool is made. Could not be happier with them. I am thinking of getting the mini but I only see it on third party sites. Do they still make it?

[Jim Koepke]

The best way to find out may be to contact Glen Drake.

If it has been discontinued the time to get one is soon.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

Might I suggest the following:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=59455&cat=1,42936,59455

[Joe Williams]

Might I suggest the following:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=59455&cat=1,42936,59455

Good suggestion for sure, I have the single with the imperial markings and the double (can't remember if it has the markings or not) I was gifted a Tite-mark when I first started with the hobby so I received it almost the same time I bought the two Veritas when I knew even less than I know now. I ended up liking the Tite-mark a little better, it just was easier for me single handed. Could be my arthritis or just that it's easier. I ended up getting another Tite-mark and I don't really use the Veritas.

They are really nice and I love the clicky graduations that it does. They are nice tools as all the other Veritas tools I have gotten over the last few years.