Acrylics residue question

[Mark Noll]

I am using a friends laser to cut Acrylite Acrylic. She uses it for glass.

I have a residue on the pieces after they are cut. I am using black Acrylic.

How can I clean this residue off and what is it?

Thanks!!!

[Eric Edgette]

Are you vector cutting the sheets or raster engraving? What does the residue look like? Haziness?

I use vinyl transfer tape on all vector cutting jobs to not get the hazy residue and it flares up far less than factory coatings that I have used.

[Mark Noll]

The residue is actually an oily substance that adheres to the acrylic when i am done.

I am Vector cutting.

[Joe Peacock]

I am currently cutting a lot of acrylic daily and the only way I have found to assure that you do not get the "smoke damage" from vectoring is to leave the protective coating on both top and bottom. This makes for some cleanup work when you remove the coating from the pieces you cut out but I have found a really quick way to get this done.
Joe

[Joe Pelonio]

I remove the factory coating and replace it with transfer tape, makes it a LOT easier to remove after.

[Ken Liversidge]

Are you cutting directly on the flat bed? You need to be cutting on a bed of nails or honeycomb so that the smoke gets pulled away from the underside of the acrylic. Also....use your air assist.

[Frank Corker]

You are likely to encounter this even on a cutting bed, especially more noticeable on dark acrylics, emphasis is on the word noticeable because it can be seen on clear and lighter too. Transfer tape does remove the possibility of it occuring, but you have to put it on, then remove it from all the cut pieces after. That can be tiresome. If you get to it whilst the acrylic is still warm from the cut, quite often you can wipe it off without residue. The acrylic sheet that I use doesnt seem to be affected by isopropanol alcohol so I use that and it works great. However with some sheets it can be a recipe for disaster and cause internal crazing which can be death to your workpiece. These are my observations by the way despite how gloomy a picture I'm painting, the residue can be removed, but finding the right solvent for you is the key.

[Viktor Voroncov]

Cutting on vector table with transfer tape on back is must. After cutting we use 3M Citrus Cleaner

[Mark Noll]

Since the laser is primarily used for engraving glass and stone, she does not have any sort of honeycomb or bed to raise the acrylic.


Is the honeycomb readily available?

[Viktor Voroncov]

Tell us brand and model of laser.

[Richard Rumancik]

If the residue is acrylic vapor that has settled, then you probably won't be able to get it off completely. When you cut acrylic it vaporizes immediately; you want to get the vapor away from the surface using air assist and exhaust. Also you need paper mask protection.

However, you might be able to get some of the residue off using an aliphatic naphtha (also known as white gas). Coleman camping fuel is the easiest product to obtain. This is compatible with most acrylics, but test on your acrylic first. It is best if you buy an acrylic made by an known manufacturer - then you can check their website for tech info. If you buy no-name products, it is hit and miss.

Crazing may be instant, or may develop over time. If you use an incompatible cleaning product the parts may leave your shop in perfect condition and arrive at the customer damaged.

Kerosene may also work but the smell of white gas is less objectionable.

Alcohols are compatible with some acrylics and will instantly craze others.

[Hilton Lister]

You don't need a vector table for acrylic. Just make some perspex disks 15mm approx. I make them from 6mm acrylic, glue 2 together and rest the acrylic sheet on top of an array of them on the bed. Vinyl application tape on the lower side of the sheet is a must to prevent the vapour marking the finished product.
I can't use it on both sides as I am running right on the limit to cut 6mm acrylic with my 25watt machine. Thanks again to Rodne for recommending this method earlier on.

[John Noell]

When we get hazing we use Novus #2 polish and it seems to take it right off.

[Belinda Barfield]

Is there a specific application tape that works best. Recommendations greatly appreciated! I am currently struggling with an acrylic project.

[Brian J Rogalny]

I am cutting a lot of white/black laser tuff for panel tags, and what has worked really good for me is to wipe it down with wd-40 first and then the residue wipes right off.Not sure if it will work with your material.

[Mark Noll]

Tell us brand and model of laser.

I am using a Camtech L20 laser. It is a 55 watt laser with a 4' x 8' aluminum bed with t slots. No vacuum table.

It is primarily used for etching stone and glass.

[Mike Null]

Do you have an exhaust system? If so how is it configured?

You need to be able to evacuate the smoke/contaminants from under the acrylic.

[Ken Liversidge]

If you have no honeycomb or bed of nails. try lifting your acrylic off the table with a number of shims placed in the web of your cut. Do you have any sort of exhaust? Don't cut acrylic without a good exhaust!

[George Brown]

Is there a specific application tape that works best. Recommendations greatly appreciated! I am currently struggling with an acrylic project.

Belinda, I use TransferRite application tape ultra paper from denver sign supply. Fairly cheap, an 8" X 300' roll is $15.