how much do you use your jointer ?

[mike graveling]

just curious how many of you do without a jointer and for those of you that do have a jointer how much do you use it ? i have never used mine, i have bought rough lumber but i have always jut planed it to thickness and used it and i use my tablesaw with a jig to cut a straight edge, i know that i'm technically right the way i am doing it, but i have never had any problems like having a board that was so twisted or bowed that i couldn't use it. i was just looking for some opinions

thanks

[Jeff Sudmeier]

I use mine nearly every time that I go in the shop. It leaves an edge that only needs a light touch of sandpaper to clean up.

I used to use my planer for "face jointing" but when I got my new jointer I used it instead.

Man what a difference, it changed the quality of my woodworking.

[Dave Gaul]

I use mine constantly!

Unless you use a special sled in the planer, the jointer is the only way I know of to true the first face of a board, well, besides the good 'ole Neander way!

[David Peterson MN]

It is one of the most used tools in my shop. Arguably the most used tool I have after my tablesaw. My next tool upgrade will be upgrading my 6inch jet jointer to a 8" or 12" jointer.

[Neil Brooks]

I'd like to take issue with what Jeff Sudmeier said.






I'd LIKE to, but ... I can't. I agree 100% :)

[bob cohen]

Hardly a day goes by when I don't use mine. Much quicker than hand planing, especially since I usually have to clean my bench off before planing. I suppose if my jointer was hard to get to or otherwise in a crowded area of the shop, I might be more inclined to handplane. I also work almost exclusively with rough lumber.

[Van Huskey]

It is one of the machines I just couldn't live without. It is one of the most used machines in my shop.

[David Hostetler]

Unless I am working with sheet goods like ply, MDF, or OSB, I use it on every project...

[Ken Shoemaker]

I only use mine, when I want a flat board, a straight edge, to remove saw markes after machining, and..... everything else....

I use it every time I"m in the shop.

Ken

[Paul Ryan]

It is one of the most used tools in my shop. Arguably the most used tool I have after my tablesaw. My next tool upgrade will be upgrading my 6inch jet jointer to a 8" or 12" jointer.

+1 ON David's comments. I use mine equal to my table saw. My planer not nearly as much. I wouldn't be with out a jointer.

[Paul Atkins]

Without a jointer I'd have to use my tablesaw more often. I use my bandsaw, planer and jointer more than the tablesaw for solid stock and don't use sheet goods much.

[Craig D Peltier]

I only use it for edge jointing before I rip and for tabletops that need to be flat. Other than that not much.
I have a friend who owns a hardwood supply company and a millshop, they dont even own one. They just use a TS jig to straightline.

I need mine for only the tabletops really. I use mine maybe 2 times a week.
I diid upgrade from an 8 to a 12 and that was great help.

[Brad Shipton]

Mike, what stock thickness are you using typically? I am guessing 4/4 or less. 4/4 can be forced into place with clamps, sure, but if have the jointer I am confused why you wouldnt aim for flat stock. A planer does one thing, makes one side exactly parallel to the other at whatever thickness you set the machine to. It does nothing to remove twists, warps or any other defects unless you have a jointing sled.

I can see your method working ok if all of your rough stock has been skip planed, but if it is rough like it comes out of the mill, then I think you need to start trying out that jointer.

Other than long architectural parts 3/4" thick or less, every rough board passes over the jointer in my shop. I would say my jointer is used almost as much my saw, shaper or planer.

Brad

[Neil Brooks]

I can see your method working ok if all of your rough stock has been skip planed, but if it is rough like it comes out of the mill, then I think you need to start trying out that jointer.

Well said.

I was going to add something about "I think you've gotten lucky, so far" ;)

[Matt Day]

I wish my lumber didn't require a jointer, but I use my jointer for every board (read: every board) that comes into my shop.

The jointer is the cornerstone for accuracy of a project.

[mike graveling]

Mike, what stock thickness are you using typically? I am guessing 4/4 or less. 4/4 can be forced into place with clamps, sure, but if have the jointer I am confused why you wouldnt aim for flat stock. A planer does one thing, makes one side exactly parallel to the other at whatever thickness you set the machine to. It does nothing to remove twists, warps or any other defects unless you have a jointing sled.

I can see your method working ok if all of your rough stock has been skip planed, but if it is rough like it comes out of the mill, then I think you need to start trying out that jointer.

Other than long architectural parts 3/4" thick or less, every rough board passes over the jointer in my shop. I would say my jointer is used almost as much my saw, shaper or planer.

Brad


what is skip planed ? i am usually using 4/4 and i get it from johnsons workbench here in michigan

[John Terefenko]

Boy I think you got your answer on that one for sure. It is one of the mostly used tools in my shop as well. You can not get a sweeter edge on a board and I do not care what blade you use. Getting that first flat face on a board is essential. Won't be without mine. Next question.

[Rod Sheridan]

what is skip planed ? i am usually using 4/4 and i get it from johnsons workbench here in michigan

Skip planing is when you send it through the planer with just a light cut, so it skips sections of the board.

I never buy skip planed wood, if I want to see the grain when i'm at the sawmill, I use an old block plane to check a couple of spots.

Regards, Rod.

[robert micley]

i hate it but use it for all indoor projects. i would love to buy wood that was very flat. i would love to pay extra for someone to joint my wood. to me it is just a pain but part of wood working. for rails, stiles and drawers you cannot afford to have any bowing in the wood. you cannot even measure wood evenly if it is not flat. i could get away without a jointer for the wood edge but not the main surface. for the rustic look , i imagine you would not want a jointer. a 8 inch jointer is great for me . i do not see a ton of upside with a larger one.

[Bob Vavricka]

Back when I taught high school industrial arts (20 years ago) I started buying "skip planed" or what we called "hit and miss" planed lumber because it let the mill knock any dirt out of the lumber (less frequent blade changes/sharpening for me) and they were able to plane wider pieces that we were able process without cutting it down in width before face jointing.
Concerning the OP question, I don't currently have a jointer, but it will be one of the next pieces of equipment I add to the newly planned shop. It will make my life much easier.
Bob V.

[Myk Rian]

Since I don't buy finished wood anymore, my jointer is a must have tool.

[Brad Shipton]

Mike, some suppliers want the stock to have an intial rough planing so the end purchaser can see the wood grain better. They send the material through a two sided planer that will remove some of the defects. Sometimes this is also called "hit and miss" planing as that is exactly what happens. The planer will knock off some of the high spots and then some of the grain appears. These machines have infeed controls that allows the operator to adjust the down pressure so they do straighten the board slightly.

Usually when they do some rough planing they will sell it as 15/16" or something like that. When it is sold in quarters, its straight out of the mill for the most part. Nothing but bandsaw blade marks.

You should try using your jointer more. It is a wonderful device and you have the darn thing. I think you will find your test fits go smoother and you may also reduce a bit of binding at the table saw.

If you set your parts on a flat bench and you can push down at one corner and the stock flops around, you will always be fighting the stock in your project. I know you said your method is working fine, but I bet you will find the glueups less stressful when it all fits properly.

Brad

[Chip Lindley]

I Love working at the jointer! Especially when ugly, weathered *found wood* can be processed into stock to make something really really nice. I find it is one of woodworking's great pleasures. A decent jointer is indespensable for processing really flat/square stock.

4x4 oak dunnage (left-over bracing and stickers between layers of steel pipe) from freight cars was turned into a lecturn for a much-loved former pastor of our church. It only cost me my time.

[Paul Ryan]

just curious how many of you do without a jointer and for those of you that do have a jointer how much do you use it ? i have never used mine, i have bought rough lumber but i have always jut planed it to thickness and used it and i use my tablesaw with a jig to cut a straight edge, i know that i'm technically right the way i am doing it, but i have never had any problems like having a board that was so twisted or bowed that i couldn't use it. i was just looking for some opinions

thanks


Mike,

I forgot to add that I rarely face joint. 99% of the stock I use is straight enough to go straight to the planer like you do. Once in a great while I face joint. But anything that is going to glued goes to the jointer before it is glued. I use it for some many things but very little face jointing. That is why at this point I have no need for a jointer larger than 6". If I find a real steal on an 8" I will grab it, but it is really not needed for me.

[Rod Sheridan]

Since aside from sheet goods, all my material is rough sawn, I use it on every piece that goes into a project.

I upgraded a couple of years ago from an 8" jointer to a 12", it sure is nice to have a 12" jointer.

Regards, Rod.

[Larry Fox]

Like others - mine gets used just about every time I go into the shop. Wish I was as fast or accurate with hand tools ... but I am not, not even close.

[glenn bradley]

i hate it but use it for all indoor projects. i would love to buy wood that was very flat. i would love to pay extra for someone to joint my wood. to me it is just a pain but part of wood working.


I Love working at the jointer! Especially when ugly, weathered *found wood* can be processed into stock to make something really really nice. I find it is one of woodworking's great pleasures. A decent jointer is indespensable for processing really flat/square stock.

I am more like Chip and not much like robert. I use my jointer almost every time I use the shop and love it (8" spiralhead). I really enjoy having control over which parts of the material my final parts come from.

The ability to choose my boards for figure, direction, etc. and then mill that rough material into my parts has elevated my woodworking more drastically than anything else that comes to mind. Sure getting used to a cabinet scraper or fine tuning tenon cheeks with a shoulder plane or paring pyramid plugs with a butt chisel are all a hoot; but selecting the right parts out of your material to begin with? Ahhhhh.

[Rich Aldrich]

I use mine all the time. Most of my lumber is rough cut. I haven't been able to make boards straight and flat with just the planer.

I wouldnt be without one.

[Dale Oakes]

I use mine on every board I use for projects. The only way to get true flat and straight pc. It is then ready to the use on other pieces of equipment wheather it be a planer or bench saw. Sometime I even skip joint pieces and leave them a couple of day and joint again to ensure it is aflat as can be before I plane to thickness. I then leave the pcs a little strong and finish with wide belt sander. My 2-cents.

[robert micley]

i learned the hard way in the past about moisture content.i always check the moisture content of the wood. nothing is more frustrating than taking the time to joint your faces and edges, run the wood through a planer and a few days later to see your wood no longer flat. even worse- going to all this trouble and having this happen during the construction of your project. also sometimes 4/4 lumber is not thick enough to joint done to 3/4 flat surface. i have taken the time with some terribly twisted wood to joint down from 2 inch to get a good 3/4 inch board. my son has a tree cutting buisness and years ago we rented a portable sawmill and spent a long time cutiing boards out of the logs. a lot of these boards really became twisted. maybe this is why i am kind of sick of jointing wood all the time. but i do agree- it is a wonderful feeling discovering what the grain looks like when jointing rough lumber. i have fallen in love with spalted maple but this is very hard to come by

[Neil Brooks]

4x4 oak dunnage (left-over bracing and stickers between layers of steel pipe) from freight cars was turned into a lecturn for a much-loved former pastor of our church. It only cost me my time.


Uhhhh. Neat!!

I haven't yet found that great stash of re-claimed wood, but ... DO have my eyes open.

And ... yeah ... planer, jointer, or drum sanders are your friend for found gold like that.

Got a pic of that one, Chip? OT, but ... I'd like to se it!

[Brian Penning]

It is one of the most used tools in my shop. Arguably the most used tool I have after my tablesaw. My next tool upgrade will be upgrading my 6inch jet jointer to a 8" or 12" jointer.

Agree 100%.
And you won't regret upgrading to the 8" at all. Can't believe what a big difference it was for me when I went from a 6" Ridgid to an 8" small aircraft carrier last Fall.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_eDYZqM9-MJw/SwXN8_jE2wI/AAAAAAAAQf4/n6kA3gUXOB4/s640/IMG_3964.JPG

[Jim Becker]

My jointer is one of the most important power tools in my shop and an intimate partner with my table saw.

[Tony Shea]

What do you currently have for a jointer? I can't imagine having a jointer and hardly using it. I don't currently own one but realize how hard life is without it. I try to use rough sawn lumber whenever I can get it and am left at my bench getting a workout with all my hand planes. I'm more than ready for a jointer and would probably use it just as much as my table saw. I'll take your jointer off your hands if you want. Why let such a useful machine go to waste. In all seriousness, how much do want for it and what is it?

[Glen Butler]

I use the jointer every day, and I smile every time I use it. Every piece gets rough cut to length, then face jointed, then thickness planed. It is my second most used tool, next to the table saw, and my second most favorite tool to use, next to the shaper.

[Brian Greb]

Jointer use... well I'd have to say every board every time... even skipped planed flat boards tend to warp, twist or cup in my climate controlled shop.

I just let the wood acclimate for two weeks face joint plane... let relax... and repeat if necessary... then to final thickness... so I guess I use it a lot.:D

[george wilson]

The last long thread posted about the necessity of having a jointer was the very opposite of this one!! Few in that first post seemed to use it. I use mine for every project.

[Joe Jensen]

I use my jointer on every board I use. Once I found out how amazing it is to use perfectly flat and straight boards I could never go back. Here is what I do.

1) I only cut and surface what I need for that session of woodworking
2) I cut a piece from rough stock slighly oversize in width and length
3) I use the jointer to make one face flat. If you just use a planer, you can't take warp out of the board. This is critical IMHO
4) I use the planer to make the other face parallel with the flat face. Then I remove equal amounts from each face until the board is the final thickness.
5) I use the jointer to make one edge flat and square with the face
6) I use the TS to rip to final width
7) I use my cross cut station to make one end square and to cut the final length.

Since I started doing this, I no longer work hard to flatten glue ups, I never have issues with glue joints pulling together, and doors and parts are not warped when done.

Nearly every board I use warps and twists when it's ripped. If you pre surface, you end up with warped and twisted final work.

For me, using this approach made the single greatest improvement in the quality of my final work.

[peter night]

...if I do not want to cut the board < 6" for my jointer. Previously I almost always cut down my wood - but have had some amazing success with the planer sled. Most annoying part is waiting for the glue gun to come to temperature

- Peter

[Van Huskey]

...if I do not want to cut the board < 6" for my jointer. Previously I almost always cut down my wood - but have had some amazing success with the planer sled. Most annoying part is waiting for the glue gun to come to temperature

- Peter


One reason I have some to the conclusion I don't need the 12" jointer I have been lusting over. A planer sled is far to easy for that one of wider then 8" board that gets used in my shop.

[Cary Falk]

I use my 8" more then I used my 6". I used my 6" mostly for edge jointing. I don't know if I have reached a different level of woodworking since I bought my 8", but I run everything through to make sure it is flat and square.

[Scot Ferraro]

Every project. I have not had success with getting 100% flat boards from any supplier I have tried...some need only a single pass and others need more, but they are all not truly flat until after milling. Since incorporating this into my work, everything else flows easier -- flat, straight and square boards are critical to everything else that follows in a project and a jointer is a first step to getting there.

Scot

[Michael MacDonald]

I am waiting to see the 6" ridgid on clearance in chicago... and waiting... and waiting.

so far, I go to a lumberyard that sells S2S, and it is a real chore to sift through the stacks to find straight pieces... but necessary because the 4/4 is already planed to 13/16 and doesn't have far to go to get down to 3/4 anyway. They also put a straight edge for free using a tablesaw, not a jointer. They also have 1/2 inch, 5/4, 6/4, 8/4... all already milled to near-final thickness.

I often get back and found that I didn't look closely enought and a long board I planned on using long is too bowed... but can be used for shorter pieces. At least if I had a jointer, I could try to work with these pieces, even if I had to go to 5/8 to get them straight.

In fact, I have take a few glue-ups in to have them planed, and I found that they don't even use their wide planer for that... they use a wide belt sander.

For glue-line edges, I use a freud glue-line rip blade. It is fine for that, thought I think a jointer would be better.

[John Thompson]

I use my 8" almost every day.. 5 days a week and sometimes 6. It saw use 3 times yesterday and will take stock across first thing this afternoon. Like my TS and 20" planer what it actually cost is ir-relevant. What it is worth... Price-less! ;)

[Tom Veatch]

... for those of you that do have a jointer how much do you use it ?...

As my wood stock is almost exclusively rough cut, the jointer and planer comes into play every time a board comes off the stack.

[Kent A Bathurst]

ditto "alla time"

[Stephen Edwards]

I use mine on almost every project.

[Ron Bontz]

On pretty much every project.

[Andy McCormick]

My jointer is one of the most important power tools in my shop and an intimate partner with my table saw.


Hey now this is a family forum. Whichever your tools are intimate with each other is none of anyones business. What happens in the shop stays in the shop.:D

[Van Huskey]

Hey now this is a family forum. Whichever your tools are intimate with each other is none of anyones business. What happens in the shop stays in the shop.:D

When I saw this posted I saw it had a serious chance to go blue, well light blue here. Now I just wonder how big my jointer is in "internet inches". :o

[Glen Butler]

...if I do not want to cut the board < 6" for my jointer. Previously I almost always cut down my wood - but have had some amazing success with the planer sled. Most annoying part is waiting for the glue gun to come to temperature

- Peter

Could you say again what you are saying here? I don't follow. Hot glue doesn't come off. Where are you using it?

[peter night]

Could you say again what you are saying here? I don't follow. Hot glue doesn't come off. Where are you using it?

Nifty trick I have seen in a few places ;) Hot glue replaces the need to build a sled like:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/skillsandtechniques/skillsandtechniquesarticle.aspx?id=5245

1) have a 5'x12" plywood base, with a 1/2" ledge glued to the front.
2) Put nice 6-12" piece of wood on base from lumberyard.
3) observe it is cupped/twisted and it rocks.
4) Pick the better side - slide some shims/scraps in place so that no rocking occurs. Hot glue guns holds it in place.
5) Run thru plane - ledge first.
6) after flattening, glu comes off in 2s with a chisel

[Fred Voorhees]

I use my jointer with every single project. I wouldn't consider having a wood shop and NOT having a jointer. One of the most needed machines in the shop.

[Chad Stucke]

Jointer,planer,and ts get used all the time.
Chad

[Art Mulder]

just curious how many of you do without a jointer and for those of you that do have a jointer how much do you use it ? i have never used mine, i have bought rough lumber but i have always jut planed it to thickness and used it and i use my tablesaw with a jig to cut a straight edge,


Mike,

Three years ago, moderator Dennis Peacock started a very interesting thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=30519) that covered much of the same ground... Basically he noticed that most pro shops seemed to not have a jointer, and wondered about that.

You might go back and read that for more info. It give a very interesting perspective to read how different shops get along fine w/out a jointer. And in fact, some would consider it a time waster.

As you've heard in this thread already, a lot of folks feel very strongly about their jointer, and use it a lot. I've got a 6" jointer, and I use it a lot too. But at the same time, like you, I have often just pushed a board through a planer (ie: w/out using a jointer) and had perfectly acceptable results.

[Van Huskey]

Nifty trick I have seen in a few places ;) Hot glue replaces the need to build a sled like:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/skillsandtechniques/skillsandtechniquesarticle.aspx?id=5245

1) have a 5'x12" plywood base, with a 1/2" ledge glued to the front.
2) Put nice 6-12" piece of wood on base from lumberyard.
3) observe it is cupped/twisted and it rocks.
4) Pick the better side - slide some shims/scraps in place so that no rocking occurs. Hot glue guns holds it in place.
5) Run thru plane - ledge first.
6) after flattening, glu comes off in 2s with a chisel

The wood whisperer shows this technique in the video "this jointers jumpin'" or something like that. If you rarely use a "sled" then this is fine, if not making the Rust sled in the above video will save a lot of time unless you leave a hot glue gun plugged in all the time, even then that sled is VERY quick to set up for use.

[Joe Jensen]

Mike,

Three years ago, moderator Dennis Peacock started a very interesting thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=30519) that covered much of the same ground... Basically he noticed that most pro shops seemed to not have a jointer, and wondered about that.

You might go back and read that for more info. It give a very interesting perspective to read how different shops get along fine w/out a jointer. And in fact, some would consider it a time waster.

As you've heard in this thread already, a lot of folks feel very strongly about their jointer, and use it a lot. I've got a 6" jointer, and I use it a lot too. But at the same time, like you, I have often just pushed a board through a planer (ie: w/out using a jointer) and had perfectly acceptable results.

Pro shops have straight line rip saws that eliminate the need to edge joint. They straight line rip and glue rough saw boards together for door panels and then run them through a 20-40HP wide belt sander. For rail and style stock they straight line rip and then run the rough boards through a $30-60K 4 spindle moulder to do all four sides at once.

YUP, with enough tool budget, space, and power, you too can skip a jointer.

[Ryan Welch]

Agree 100%.
And you won't regret upgrading to the 8" at all. Can't believe what a big difference it was for me when I went from a 6" Ridgid to an 8" small aircraft carrier last Fall.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_eDYZqM9-MJw/SwXN8_jE2wI/AAAAAAAAQf4/n6kA3gUXOB4/s640/IMG_3964.JPG
Last fall???? doesn't look like you have used it yet. If you want I can come over and dirty up that shop for ya.

[Ryan Welch]

i hate it but use it for all indoor projects. i would love to buy wood that was very flat. i would love to pay extra for someone to joint my wood. to me it is just a pain but part of wood working. for rails, stiles and drawers you cannot afford to have any bowing in the wood. you cannot even measure wood evenly if it is not flat. i could get away without a jointer for the wood edge but not the main surface. for the rustic look , i imagine you would not want a jointer. a 8 inch jointer is great for me . i do not see a ton of upside with a larger one.

You hate it? It is one my favorite tools in the shop and by far the least finnicky

[Neil Brooks]

You hate it? It is one my favorite tools in the shop and by far the least finnicky

Not only "Yeah," but ... after running quite a few boards through mine, yesterday, ... I just love the sound it makes. Between that and my thickness planer .... :)

[peter night]

The wood whisperer shows this technique in the video "this jointers jumpin'" or something like that. If you rarely use a "sled" then this is fine, if not making the Rust sled in the above video will save a lot of time unless you leave a hot glue gun plugged in all the time, even then that sled is VERY quick to set up for use.

It is definitely a nice idea. I have some ideas for enhancing ;) Love it that he took the time to share his experience.

[Frank Drew]

If you can securely fasten a piece of wood in place, then a small amount of deviation from truly flat might not be a huge problem, but for things like drawer fronts, door stiles, bed posts, etc., you have to have flat wood, period. If you can buy stock that's already really flat, and it stays that way, fine, but most of us need to get it flat once it's in our shops, and IMO a jointer is the best tool for that.

[keith micinski]

The wood whisperer shows this technique in the video "this jointers jumpin'" or something like that. If you rarely use a "sled" then this is fine, if not making the Rust sled in the above video will save a lot of time unless you leave a hot glue gun plugged in all the time, even then that sled is VERY quick to set up for use.

Van, thank you for pointing out The Wood Whisperer to me. I have never heard of his podcast before and if there is one thing I love it is watching woodworking shows. I have about a month of really good wood working tv to watch now. This is going to be great.

[Jim Becker]

One reason I have some to the conclusion I don't need the 12" jointer I have been lusting over. A planer sled is far to easy for that one of wider then 8" board that gets used in my shop.

Using a sled is certainly a viable means for occasionally flattening a wider board, but the setup has to be tweaked for each individual board. But a sled doesn't necessarily address the convenience and capability that a wider jointer brings for unusual shapes as well as more flexibility for surfacing narrow stock, especially when it's figured. While I do work with wide lumber as much as I can...I prefer it...I was pretty amazed at how much I like the bigger machine for routine work that "could" be done on a narrower machine, but is more comfortable on the wider surface.

[Glen Butler]

Peter,

So the hot glue is just oozed over the top and sides of the shims and not between anything. I also assume you are just using craft store hot glue and not the industrial stuff?

[Tony Shea]

But I bet they still have a jointer in most of these Pro Shops that get used on smaller projects. Maybe not but I just can't imagine a pro shop being without a versatile 12 incher.

[Rod Sheridan]

[QUOTE=Joe Jensen;1357578. For rail and style stock they straight line rip and then run the rough boards through a $30-60K 4 spindle moulder to do all four sides at once.

YUP, with enough tool budget, space, and power, you too can skip a jointer.[/QUOTE]

Joe, I always liked watching the sticker after setting it up, rough stuff from the gang rip in one end, finished mouldings out the other end.

However at home I'll stick with the jointer/planer, I don't think Diann would let me get me a sticker, nor would it fit in my basement:D

Regards, Rod.

[Van Huskey]

Using a sled is certainly a viable means for occasionally flattening a wider board, but the setup has to be tweaked for each individual board. But a sled doesn't necessarily address the convenience and capability that a wider jointer brings for unusual shapes as well as more flexibility for surfacing narrow stock, especially when it's figured. While I do work with wide lumber as much as I can...I prefer it...I was pretty amazed at how much I like the bigger machine for routine work that "could" be done on a narrower machine, but is more comfortable on the wider surface.


The Rust sled is almost to easy and quick to set up for a board. A Shelix head makes skewing the board a non-issue for highly figured wood. Really bade wood is indeed much easier on a wide jointer. Bigger is better and if ones budget allows then I would suggest as large as possible but the point is one can "live" with a 6 or 8" jointer if it is needed.

[Don Morris]

As others have said. My 8" is used on all major projects. Love having the knowledge my boards are flat and have that rt. angle edge. I have a shelix head so highly figured wood is no pb. Must admit, if I'm not doing a large project and just minor stuff...yes, it'll sit not in use for a while. But I didn't buy it for that. I bought it for the big stuff, and I use it.