How often do you sharpen on average?

[Roger Chandler]

Hello all,

Out of a desire to learn from those more accomplished than myself, I am trying to get a sense of how often on average the turners on this forum stop to sharpen a bowl gouge, during a project. I realize the abrasive characteristics of different woods will dictate this to some degree, but overall, in your experience, what is your requirement to get good results, and eliminate tool marks?

Also, do you find higher speeds help eliminate tool marks? Elimination of tool marks is what I am trying to accomplish. The turners here that have posted for the most part do beautiful work, and it is my intention to join in that group, so all pointers are solicited and gratefully acknowledged!

[Curt Fuller]

Everyone probably has their own way of doing things. But for me, when I'm roughing I'll usually only sharpen when I start noticing that I'm pushing too hard to get a decent cut. But when I'm finishing something I almost always get a nice fresh edge to use for the final cuts. That pretty much goes for any tool, gouge, skew or scraper.

[patrick michael stein]

hi roger



like you said depends on wood you are turning .I turn alot of spalted maple sometimes i might go back to the grinder ever 5or6 passes.but mostly if i have to push harder or the tool starts getting hot I will go and sharpen the gouge. to save time i have seven bowl gouges I sharpen all seven before i start.tool marks can be trickey at least for me itry to hone the edge before my last pass some success.



patrick

[tom martin]

High Rodger,
I seldom stop turning to sharpen gouges. I have accumulated 7 or 8 gouges sized from 3/8 to 5/8 over the years ,Pen State, Thompson, and Oneway, Most have the same angle jig settings, but due to geometry of the steel have different characteristics. I usually start with the Thompson 5/8 or Oneway 1/2 for roughing. I use the 3/8 (bowl and detail)for detailing and generally shear scrape with a 1/2 inch. So when one dulls, I pick up another. I sharpen them all at one time.
Faster speed has helped me reduce tool marks, but i find that a few sweeps of a sharp scraper smooths out slight imperfections and tool marks. I do sharpen my scrapers several times especially for the final light sweep.
Tom

[Bernie Weishapl]

Curt pretty much said it. When I start having to push and work I will go sharpen. Lately I have gotten 4 gouges a 5/8, 1/2, 3/8 all fingernail and one 3/8 conventional for the final cut. Then I sharpen when I am done.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Roger - you'll get a feel for it over time. When you use a fresh grind - the wood just flows off the gouge effortlessly. When it starts to dull - as Curt stated - you will find yourself rubbing the bevel a little harder to force the cut.

Depending on wood, steel in the gouge and how aggressive you turn - your trips to the grinder will vary. Being able to notice when the tool starts to get dull becomes second nature very quickly.

Speed - within reason - a faster speed will generally give you a smoother surface. Just make sure to stay within safe boundaries when adjusting the speed and make sure it is appropriate for the size of the turning.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Hello all,

Out of a desire to learn from those more accomplished than myself, I am trying to get a sense of how often on average the turners on this forum stop to sharpen a bowl gouge, during a project. I realize the abrasive characteristics of different woods will dictate this to some degree, but overall, in your experience, what is your requirement to get good results, and eliminate tool marks?

Also, do you find higher speeds help eliminate tool marks? Elimination of tool marks is what I am trying to accomplish. The turners here that have posted for the most part do beautiful work, and it is my intention to join in that group, so all pointers are solicited and gratefully acknowledged!

Not trying to be smart here, but I sharpen when the tool isn't sharp anymore, especially when finish cutting, the tool should cut almost by itself without any pushing, as for speeds that depends a lot on size, you couldn't/shouldn't spin a large bowl as fast as a small bowl.
Having tool-marks isn't so bad, they are easily sanded off, it is tearouts and crushed grain that are a much bigger problem IMO

[Jerry Rhoads]

Roger
If there is not anything strange in the wood.
On bowls, I start with a sharp gouge, before making the final cut, I sharpen, reverse the bowl and turn out the inside, I sharpen before making the final cut.
this always gives me a sharp tool to start the next bowl.
I use a sharpening jig. Proir to that I sharpened differently.
But with the jig I take off so little metal, that I do not mind sharpening more.
The jig does not change when I am doing bowls, so one pass and I am sharp again.

Jerry

[Dick Sowa]

I think you got some good answers. Depending on the vessel, I will resharpen a single bowl gouge several times before it's done. But probably the most important sharpening is just before making the final cuts to smooth the surface prior to sanding.

[Roger Chandler]

Roger
If there is not anything strange in the wood.
On bowls, I start with a sharp gouge, before making the final cut, I sharpen, reverse the bowl and turn out the inside, I sharpen before making the final cut.
this always gives me a sharp tool to start the next bowl.
I use a sharpening jig. Proir to that I sharpened differently.
But with the jig I take off so little metal, that I do not mind sharpening more.
The jig does not change when I am doing bowls, so one pass and I am sharp again.

Jerry

Hello Jerry,

I have never "turned out the inside" as my previous lathe would not reverse. Now the one I have will, and I want to understand this technique. Does this mean that you start in the middle of the bowl and go to the outside rim, on the opposite side [far side] of the bowl, as you turn the inside?

These posts are being most helpful to me, thank you!

[Roger Chandler]

Steve, Bernie, Curt, Leo, Patrick, and all others..... thank you for posting on my question. I am trying to refine my technique, and get away from bad habits that I probably have developed [being self-taught] and I am trying to think my way through issues, and I pose questions as part of this process.

This forum, and the willingness of good folks like all of you is a treasure trove of information and experience that is beneficial to anyone willing to take advantage of it.

All of you have added to my progress in turning knowledge and I look forward to putting your advise into my next turning projects.....Thanks again!

[Bob Hamilton]

I would have to say I am in the camp of starting out with all my gouges sharp and when the one I am using stops cutting the way I like I switch to a sharper one. I rarely only sharpen one gouge.

BTW, my interpretation of Jerry's post was that he sharpened before making the final cut on the outside of the bowl and then reversed the bowl on the chuck to hollow out the inside, again sharpening before making the final pass. I did not get a sense that he was turning with the lathe running in reverse.

Good Luck!
Bob

[Roger Chandler]

I would have to say I am in the camp of starting out with all my gouges sharp and when the one I am using stops cutting the way I like I switch to a sharper one. I rarely only sharpen one gouge.

BTW, my interpretation of Jerry's post was that he sharpened before making the final cut on the outside of the bowl and then reversed the bowl on the chuck to hollow out the inside, again sharpening before making the final pass. I did not get a sense that he was turning with the lathe running in reverse.

Good Luck!
Bob

Thanks Bob!

I have caught you on YouTube and have enjoyed your videos. I plan on going back to your one on Vacuum chucking, and get it in my head, so I can go out to my shop and put it into practice.

I have also visited your website. You do nice work, and make things simple to understand. I hope you will continue the video work and let us all have a peek once in a while. Thanks for taking your time to post on my question; I am learning a lot!

I really wondered about turning with the lathe in reverse. It seems to me one would have to turn the tool upside down to do it, and it would not be safe to start off with. I just misunderstood what he meant by turning inside out.

[John King]

A wise turner that I have much respect for once said sharpen the tool before it becomes dull. One should never turn with dull tools.

Sharpen before the final pass.