Wood Thins

[Steve Clarkson]

I bought some wood thins from LaserBits and tried my first attempt to inlay them....just doing text about 3" high. I vector cut the wood thins fine and they fit perfectly in the engraved area.....but then they wouldn't stick. I even tried wood glue......but every time I sprayed on polurethane......the edges curled up.

Anyone have any advice?

[Brian Robison]

Double sided tape on the back before cutting so that the adhesive goes all the way to the edge?

[Dee Gallo]

Spray adhesive on the back to make them curl the other way and flatten out? I'm just guessin' :) Wait for someone who knows for sure!

[Jack Burton]

I have used carpet tape successfully, apply before cutting.

[Joe Pelonio]

Are you saying they wouldn't stick to the engraved out area? Wood glue, then vacuum pump or really tight clamps until it sets. I use minwax poly, and never had any veneer curl on me. I think that product was designed for application to plaques, and the adhesive that comes on it is useless for sticking to a rough surface. BTW you're better off going to a place like Rockler where they have a big selection of veneers, and buy up whatever they have on sale especially in the clearance bin.

One other thing I do is apply transfer tape prior to engraving the background wood, and to the veneer prior to cutting. That keeps the excess glue off the wood for easier sanding.

[Steve Clarkson]

Are you saying they wouldn't stick to the engraved out area? Wood glue, then vacuum pump or really tight clamps until it sets. I use minwax poly, and never had any veneer curl on me. I think that product was designed for application to plaques, and the adhesive that comes on it is useless for sticking to a rough surface. BTW you're better off going to a place like Rockler where they have a big selection of veneers, and buy up whatever they have on sale especially in the clearance bin.

One other thing I do is apply transfer tape prior to engraving the background wood, and to the veneer prior to cutting. That keeps the excess glue off the wood for easier sanding.

Thanks guys.....you're right.....I guess the wood thins are designed more for plaques or smooth surfaces.....I just didn't realize it until after I bought them (Live and Learn). The adhesive that comes with it just isn't strong enough......and I guess I didn't let the wood glue set up long enough (I don't have a vacuum pump either). I happen to have some carpet tape.....I'll give that a shot next time.

Thanks again.

[Andrea Weissenseel]

I had the same trouble with veneer curling up, I made a table tennis racket box for my mate and put the club logo and the name inlayed on the lid. Not only that it took me about 4 days to puzzle the logo, with tweezers and magnifying glas, together - the size of the logo is 11cm :rolleyes: then after I managed it all and glued it on the lid it started to curl because I didn't press it right :(

When I redo it, I go to the woodshop where I bought the veneer and have them press it on.

I guess it's just leaning by doing :D

Andrea

[Steve Clarkson]

So I can just bring my stuff to you and you can fix it???? LOL!

That box is VERY nice!

[George M. Perzel]

Steve;
How thick is the wood? Sounds like veneer to me if it curls that easily. The curling is caused by the shrinking action of the poly as it dries. Veneer will also curl if used with waterbased glue and not clamped until dry.
The veneer with the self adhesive backing is virtually useless and should not be used for inlays.
Check Ebay for bargains on all types of veneer and apply it with a good non-waterbased glue (fish glue is great) and proper clamping.
The easiest way to inlay is with thicker wood- raster the female and wire brush debris, cut the male, insert with glue, clamp, and then sand flush and finish. A lot more forgiving than messing with micro thin veneers.
Best regards;
George
LaserArts

[Andrea Weissenseel]

Thank you Steve - yes just bring it, I take it with me when I go there :D lol

[Joe Pelonio]

With a lot of pieces you may get curl before you can get the clamping device on, masking tape will hold it until then and if you use the transfer tape will easily remove after the glue dries.

[Frank Corker]

I did the same thing when I first tried veneer as Steve did, just didn't leave it long enough to dry!

[Duane Parcells]

Hey Steve

Had the same problems......

1. At minimum sand off the finish on the glue side before cutting.

2. Quality Lumber at Affordable Prices! Hardwood Lumber for all your woodworking needs! (http://www.ocoochhardwoods.com/) All the wood thins are unfinished and the glue really needs that. Much larger selection of species.

3. When the Flame polisher buy was going on I was one of the first on the list. I backed out to build a vacuum press instead. I use it most every day.
Here for more info....Joe Woodworker - Woodworking, Vacuum Pressing and Veneering Information Website (http://www.joewoodworker.com/index.html)

4. The glue is critical. I have switched to Ultra Cat. Go for quality no matter what you choose. Wood glue of all sorts from wally world either would curl or hold until humidity changes.

I've posted a few pictures in the past with 1/8" inlay (end of trail, haida art so on) The vacuum press makes all the difference.

If the links are not allowed please excuse.....

Good luck
Duane

[Lee DeRaud]

BTW you're better off going to a place like Rockler where they have a big selection of veneers, and buy up whatever they have on sale especially in the clearance bin.Rockler also has a decent selection of veneer with PSA film (3M 468) already applied to the back. Very rarely on sale, unfortunately.

Plan B is to get the PSA sheets from Johnson Plastics and apply them to plain veneer, but note that some species have a lot of built-in curl and don't like being pressed out flat "dry". (There's a solution made to handle this issue for traditional veneering, but it won't work with PSA film.)

The veneer with the self adhesive backing is virtually useless and should not be used for inlays.Apparently true for whatever lame adhesive Laserbits uses, but the stuff on the Rockler veneer is way different. I've applied it to MDF, melamine, and birch ply and have never had an issue with it as long as it's rolled out with a lot of pressure: they don't call it "pressure-sensitive adhesive" for nothing.

[Martin Boekers]

Duane, great supplier of thin hardwoods, I get most of my supplies from them! Large variety and sizings.


Marty

[Zsolt Paul]

I have been using Titebond Instant Bond Wood Adhesive. It is NOT water based and sets up very very quickly (seconds). If you need more open time, buy the thicker version. There will be no curling from the glue, that's for sure. It forms an extremely strong bond.

It is probably too expensive for large project, but for small projects its ideal. Having said that, I must say I use this for gluing 1/8" to 1/4" thick material, not veneer. However, I don't see why it wouldn't work just as well.

Yellow glue has always curled the same size pieces for me, and clamping was just not possible b/c we were assembling 100's of pieces into one design and there was simply not enough time to assemble them and clamp them before the moisture fromt the water based glue would curl the edges. THis is why I am looking for a cold press glue that would allow open time during assembly and then vacuum press later and that's when it would form a permenant bond. HOwever, I can't seem to get an answer if there is a cold press glue like that for 1/4" solids?

[Lee DeRaud]

I have been using Titebond Instant Bond Wood Adhesive. It is NOT water based and sets up very very quickly (seconds). If you need more open time, buy the thicker version. There will be no curling from the glue, that's for sure. It forms an extremely strong bond.

It is probably too expensive for large project, but for small projects its ideal. Having said that, I must say I use this for gluing 1/8" to 1/4" thick material, not veneer. However, I don't see why it wouldn't work just as well.It's a cyanoacrylate glue (i.e. "superglue"). The main issue with using it for veneer is that it can soak through and affect the subsequent finish. With thicker stock you can sand down to get back to clean wood, but not with veneer. (It's also not a problem if you're using CA glue as the finish, but that's a different subject.)

[Zsolt Paul]

Good to know Lee. Glad I clarified that I was using it on thicker stock. Would brushing a thin coat on the glue side of the veneer and let it dry to seal it solve this problem? Of course this adds expense.... along that thought though, sealing it with something inexpensive, not water based and compatible with the Instant Bond?

[Norberto Coutinho]

Hi
Try araldite.com .. I use it a lot in wood. Is a very good glue.

[Lee DeRaud]

Good to know Lee. Glad I clarified that I was using it on thicker stock. Would brushing a thin coat on the glue side of the veneer and let it dry to seal it solve this problem?I suspect it (and most of the usual candidates for sealers) will either wick through (if too thin) or interfere with the bond (if too thick).

And I doubt there's a "just right" between "too thin" and "too thick".