Care of Hammer A3-31 jointer and planer beds

[Roger Jensen]

Hi All,

I have an A3-31 and have been very happy with it. My only issue is the surface of the jointer and planer beds. For those of you that don't have have one, they have some sort of grooved steel instead of the polished surface like my other tools. It seems like wood pieces don't slide as easily on this tool as on other tools.

I am wondering what other folks are using to clean/prep their Hammer tools. I have tried TopCoat and wax, but neither of them give me the slick surface I am looking for.

It mostly affects surface jointing wide boards. Sliding a long, eight-inch-wide board is a hard to push with a smooth even motion. I need to have a push stick behind the board to push it along (vs. a rubber-bottomed push handle pushing down on the board).

Thanks,

Roger

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Roger, I'm using paste wax on mine, you do have to keep it waxed.

Felder sell Super Gleit (SP?) for that purpose, I don't know if it works better than wax........Rod.

[Jeff Monson]

Roger I had the same concerns on my a3-31 when it was new. So I took my ROS and sanded them, it took the roughness out of the cast IMO. I cleaned them really well, waxed them, and now have no complaints.

I'm not really sure this was the "correct" thing to do but it did help mine out considerably. When my machine was new, you could not wax the tables without shredding the cloth, as the beds were that rough.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Man, not trying to give anyone buyer's remorse here. But I'm surprised that's what you get for a $4k machine!

[Rod Sheridan]

Man, not trying to give anyone buyer's remorse here. But I'm surprised that's what you get for a $4k machine!

What, a machine that planes with zero snipe, and can take a 3mm cut in one pass jointer or planer mode?

I don't have buyer remorse, I have a big smile every time I use it.:D

I think the term "rough" leads to an impression of not accuratly machined, however the opposite is true. The machining of the beds is exact, which leads to a sharpness.

I removed the protective surface treatment on mine with Scothbrite pads and solvent, which cleans up the protective coating and removes the sharpness from the table surfaces.

I can't remember if it's mentioned in the manual, however it is a common approach to cleaning machine tables.

P.S. The table also gets better with continued use and waxing, and doesn't suffer from the stiction common to extremely smooth surfaces.

regards, Rod.

[Peter Aeschliman]

What, a machine that planes with zero snipe, and can take a 3mm cut in one pass jointer or planer mode?

I don't have buyer remorse, I have a big smile every time I use it.:D


No doubt it's an awesome machine... but it seems odd that the surface would shred up a cloth if you tried to buff it!

[Paul B. Cresti]

I have owned numerous european machines and they all have the milled surface on the cast iron minus my current bandsaw. I prefer the milled surface to the shiny tops, no issue what-so-ever with it not being slick enough....just use paste wax and get to work

[Brad Shipton]

I quite like the Felder Gleit, but I must admit I have not tried wax.

Brad

[Jamie Buxton]

I have a first-generation A3-31 -- about eight years old. Although the surface is milled (like my Unisaw and my Laguana bandsaw), it isn't rough. It certainly wouldn't shred a paper towel. I put paste wax on it occasionally.

[Glen Butler]

Paste wax doesn't last more than a few boards, then they start sticking again. Am I doing something wrong? I apply an thin even coat then buff off.

[Paul B. Cresti]

This is what I have been doing for years now


put one coat on and then remove with a buffing motion... this "cleans" the cast iron
put on the next coat and let it dry for a bit. Buff this coat until the surface is dry...you will get a sheen to the surface
Surface will now be slick and well protected.

[Jamie Buxton]

Paste wax doesn't last more than a few boards, then they start sticking again. Am I doing something wrong? I apply an thin even coat then buff off.

I pad on a little wax, and rarely buff it. It might be weeks or before I do it again, and I'm in the shop a lot.

Maybe your table is rougher than mine, like you said in your first post. When my table saw gets a little rusty, I polish it with my random-orbit sander. I use the aluminum oxide paper I use on wood, so it doesn't last long on the steel. But it does polish the steel. You could try that on your tables. I'm not sure, but maybe silicon carbide sandpaper (the black wet-or-dry stuff they sell in auto shops) might last a little longer on steel than aluminum oxide, but then I don't know of a source for hook-and-loop discs of the stuff.

[Sam Babbage]

If it's like a similar machine I recently set up then I think the roughness is caused by tiny burrs at the edges of the grooves created by the maching process. From what I've been told these will smooth off with use, or you can be a bit more aggressive and remove them with either an abrasive pad or stone. Don't go overboard with the abrading! I found that instead of using a cloth to wax or Silber Gleit (sp? it's Silver Glide in English) using a piece of white, abrasiveless Scotchbrite worked well while the table was still a little rough.

I've used older machines with grooved tables that are as smooth as silk, so Ithink with time it will sort itself out.

[Roger Jensen]

Thanks Sam. I don't want to do anything too drastic, but I also want a slicker surface.

Did you you any solvent/fluid with your Scotchbrite pad? Did you do it by hand or use your ROS?

Roger

[Martin Serre]

I second that! Waxing the tables (I have a C3-31) is extremely important. I make my own wax (it's easy) but I'm sure the stuff that Felder in Mississauga sells is much better. Without waxing (which I do before every big job), the boards become increasingly hard to push through. :)


Hi Roger, I'm using paste wax on mine, you do have to keep it waxed.

Felder sell Super Gleit (SP?) for that purpose, I don't know if it works better than wax........Rod.

[Bill Dufour]

I am cleaning up a planer bed that was left in the rain right now. 400 grit seems good enough on a ros. I just did a little 1,ooo grit this morning and it looks better still.
Bill D

[Curt Harms]

My Jet JJP-12 has 'corduroy' jointer beds as well. I cleaned mine off with mineral spirits and paper towels and yes, they were a little 'grabby'. A minute with a maroon abrasive pad fixed that - it didn't take much - then wax.

[Harold Patterson]

Johnson paste wax works Very well on the beds. I have a second generation one and the beds are fairly smooth.

[Bill McNiel]

Johnson paste wax works Very well on the beds. I have a second generation one and the beds are fairly smooth.

I have been wary of using any kind of wax on my A-41 for fear of it affecting the finish. Any reality to my fear?

[Warren Lake]

I used straight carnuba, never had any finish issues from it. No silicone in it. I will test ceramic on the machine tables and see it holds up. Had johnsons way in the past before carnuba and it worked fine.

[Jim Becker]

Woodwhisperer's latest video had a sponsor called Carbon Method. His short term test was very positive. It seems to be a product that applies not dissimilar to how ceramic coatings go on.

https://carbonmethod.com/

[Rod Sheridan]

I have been wary of using any kind of wax on my A-41 for fear of it affecting the finish. Any reality to my fear?

You can use wax for floors (which doesn’t have silicone) or the Felder Silber Gleit, which is what I have switched to.

Neither affect finishing……..Regards, Rod.

[Harold Patterson]

Never had any issue with wax. I let it dry a bit and buff it. I usually sand before finishing and there is no clogging of the sandpaper.

[Jim OConnor]

Slip it Gel works nicely and lasts a long time. Very easy to apply

[Chris Parks]

Johnson paste wax works Very well on the beds. I have a second generation one and the beds are fairly smooth.

It has now been discontinued according to reports in this forum

[Curt Harms]

It has now been discontinued according to reports in this forum

Here is a thread from umgf.com containing a quote from the manufacturer:

While I might disagree with their business decision, their business model is solid as to customer response. I put the question to SC Johnson and in a few hours got it straight from the manufacturer.


"Hi David,

I’m sorry to share SC Johnson Paste Wax® is no longer being made. While I understand it was a product you used, unfortunately, we had to make the tough decision to stop making it. That said, your continued interest has been shared with the team.

We’re always working on new and exciting products and sometimes, in order to make room for them at the store, we have to decide which ones to take off the shelf. It’s a decision we don’t take lightly, and consumer and retailer interest helps us choose which stay.

In thanks for your taking the time to reach out, I'm mailing a booklet of savings on a variety of our SC Johnson brands. Please expect it to arrive in about two weeks."

I suspect the fact that it took some time & elbow grease to use properly has led to an entire generation or two having never used or even seen it... thus the demise.

I imagine the fact that 'furniture' from IKEA or Walmart has little need for paste wax has something to do with it as well. I imagine carnuba wax like bowling alley wax will continue to be available but will be a niche product at a higher price.

[Warren Lake]

it had chemicals in it they can't use now, same as other products from other manufacturers.

[Rod Sheridan]

It has now been discontinued according to reports in this forum

You can buy Minwax paste wax at paint areas of BORGs or Canadian tire.

Rona near me sell it in regular or dark colour……Regards, Rod

[George Yetka]

The hammer bed is dead flat but is not mirror polished. It is cut like an extremely fine file. The paste wax stuff doesnt work. Ive been using the Felder spray as glidecoat, paste wax, and a couple others have not lasted on these beds. The machine is worth what it costs. The beds are just different, when you rub your hand across them you can feel texture.

[Alan Lightstone]

Woodwhisperer's latest video had a sponsor called Carbon Method. His short term test was very positive. It seems to be a product that applies not dissimilar to how ceramic coatings go on.

https://carbonmethod.com/

I saw that. Interesting. But his test was to just look at rust prevention. As I recall, it didn't look at reducing friction. It might be great at that, but it's going to be a few months until he does a longer term test.

Myself, I usually just use CRC-36. Needs frequent applications. Super Gleit (Super Glide) works well too. Pricey.

[Jim Becker]

I will add that I bought and used the Boeshield product a few months ago when I had to deal with (the first time in 20+ years) of having rust on my machinery in the temporary shop that was caused by condensation on a "warm" winter day or three that I had to open the big door for one reason or another. Not even the slightest hint of rust since. I used to use just wax.

[Warren Lake]

thats interesting George. I prefer super smooth but some of my SCM stuff has scallps so wood only rides on the high points to reduce friction. Ive seen it on many older european machines. Have to make sure the dial is on a peak when I set up the knives.

[Jamie Buxton]

Here is a thread from umgf.com containing a quote from the manufacturer:

While I might disagree with their business decision, their business model is solid as to customer response. I put the question to SC Johnson and in a few hours got it straight from the manufacturer.



I imagine the fact that 'furniture' from IKEA or Walmart has little need for paste wax has something to do with it as well. I imagine carnuba wax like bowling alley wax will continue to be available but will be a niche product at a higher price.

Odd. My local Ace Hardware has it on the shelf.

[Robyn Horton]

I've been using Butchers Bowling Alley wax for a long time. I guess I should start looking for a new can before this one is gone.

[Curt Harms]

I've been using Butchers Bowling Alley wax for a long time. I guess I should start looking for a new can before this one is gone.

I haven't heard of anyone discontinuing paste wax except SC Johnson. I wouldn't be surprised if that decision was driven as much by decreasing sales volume as any other factor. If Warren above is correct about some chemical used in the manufacture being unavailable I'd hope someone is working on an alternative.