GRR-Ripper questions

[Valentine Azbelle]

I am new to woodworking - just got my first table saw (Bosch 4100-09). The purpose (at least for now) is to rip 1.5" strips of 1.5" thick MDF. Most likely I will be doing this with 3' x 4' sheets (in other words making 1.5" MDF squares 4' long). I watched youtube demos of the GRR-Ripper and it looks like a great way to do that. The only issue is in those videos the stock that was used for the demostration was fairly short and narrow. If I want to rip narrow stock out of 4'x4' sheets is the GRR-Ripper a good way to do it? If yes, how exactly do I do that if my whole table is less than 3' wide and the distance from the edge of the table to the blade is like a foot or so? Do I build an additional infeed/outfeed tables? If yes, how do I push the woodpiece past the blade without leaning over the additional infeed table dangerously close to the blade? Anybody's got a video of using GRR-Ripper with 4'x4' sheets or something like that (preferably cutting narrow stock)?

Is there a difference between GRR-Ripper and Gripper push block?

[Paul Ryan]

I own a gripper and use it more often than any other push/saftey aid. In your case it isn't going to help that much. because you are ripping so little off such a large piece. If you have a portable saw it is going to be difficult cutting pieces out of large chunks of plywood. An outfeed table is highly recomended it will add capacity to your saw. I wouldn't do much for the infeed side do to what you are worried about haveing to lean over. A few inches on the infeed side maybe 6" at the most would be ok. But then you loose the accuracy of your miter guage slots if you cut new ones. If you can, can you cut off about 13" (you will get 8 strips off with a full kerf blade) off the large piece and then cut your strips out of that piece. It will be easier and safter handeling a smaller chuck then trying to cut off 1 1/2" off of 4 feet. And I would use and ordinary push "shoe" for the piece between the blade and the fence. I find the gripper cumbersome to use large pieces because it sits on the cut piece and cut off piece at the same time. The gripper really needs to be the only tool pushing the work piece, and in the case of cutting small pieces off a much larger piece such as plywood, IMHO it isn't the best tool for the job.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I only use the Grippers when ripping small thin pieces too. As Paul mentioned, ripping small pieces from a large piece is easy to do. You can even leave all your safety guards (if any) on. The Gripper is really nice when ripping small short stuff that you have to take the guard off. That's when your fingers get close to the blade.
It really makes quick easy work ripping segmenting pieces. Safely.

[Valentine Azbelle]

I own a gripper and use it more often than any other push/saftey aid. In your case it isn't going to help that much. because you are ripping so little off such a large piece.

Would it help (for use of the Gripper) if I cut the 3'x4' sheets into narrower pieces? I guess I could cut them in half and rip from 1.5'x4' or maybe even cut that in half too.


An outfeed table is highly recomended it will add capacity to your saw.

I will definitely build an outfeed table.


I would use and ordinary push "shoe" for the piece between the blade and the fence.

The problem is that the manual says to use a push block and an auxiliary fence for anything smaller than 2" because a push stick would interfere with the guard system on the blade. I really don't want to build an auxiliary fence and am looking for a pre-made solution. Another option would be Grip-Tites but my fence is aluminum. I managed to get the last of Grip-Tite steel fenceplates (discontinued) but looks like they need to be mounted on some sort of an auxiliary fence as well.


I find the gripper cumbersome to use large pieces because it sits on the cut piece and cut off piece at the same time. The gripper really needs to be the only tool pushing the work piece, and in the case of cutting small pieces off a much larger piece such as plywood, IMHO it isn't the best tool for the job.

Do you use the Gripper with the saw guard off? Do you use any additional featherboards?

[Valentine Azbelle]

I only use the Grippers when ripping small thin pieces too. As Paul mentioned, ripping small pieces from a large piece is easy to do. You can even leave all your safety guards (if any) on. The Gripper is really nice when ripping small short stuff that you have to take the guard off. That's when your fingers get close to the blade.
It really makes quick easy work ripping segmenting pieces. Safely.

I need to rip pieces 1.5" wide. I think that qualifies as small, no? I just don't see how I can start pushing a 4' long board with a gripper if my table has only like a foot from the edge to the blade. Can you start pushing with your hands, then once the piece is almost through, stop in the middle of the cut, grab the Gripper and continue?

[Van Huskey]

Valentine since I know exactly what you are doing I will try to cover most of the bases.

1. First you are coming home with 4x4 sheets of MDF since you have to haul them in a car correct?

2. I suggest you cut those pieces down first to a more manageable size. I suggest you cut pieces which are as long in one dimension as the longest "skyscraper in your skyline" (plus a little extra) then somewhere around 12-18 inches wide in the other dimension. Determine the second dimension by adding up a number of 1.5" cuts adding .125 for each cut (I think you have a standard kerf blade) then actually cut it a little oversized. I say oversized since I would then glue two of these smaller (slightly oversized) pieces together at this point, ones the glue is dry then you can trim these sheets on all four sides by just a tiny amount so the MDF is even.

3. Now it is time to cut the 1.5 inch rips. Just slice them off one by one your hands shouldn't get near the blade until the last couple of cuts. For the last cut or two just use one or two standard pushsticks that can be found in any configuration for much less than a Gripper. When woodworkers talk about thin rips it is usually much thinner then 1.5" and that is one place the gripper excels. Also just lay your push sticks on or beside the fence on the left and on the saw table on the right of the last couple of cuts then when you get the piece all the way on the table pick up the sticks and finish the cut. Using two stick is better one in your right hand pushing forward on the right side of the blade and one in your left hand pushing the wood against the fence (always keep this pressure BEHIND the blade, just like mentioned about feather boards).

Once you get the skyscrapers cut you can then cut them to length, not sure if you decided to use the miter gauge or get a cheap miter saw, I vote for the latter just be careful with the last short cut on either. If you use the miter gauge and the table saw you will probably need to extend the fence on the miter gauge with some wood.


You are going to have more waste than someone that has been doing it for ages both from mistakes and the fact your cut-sheet (plan for all the cuts) will likely not be the best it could be and even if it were your learning curve with accuracy will probably blow it up pretty quick if the lumberyards panel saw doesn't do it for you. That reminds me reference all you cuts from the factory edge NOT the cutline from the lumberyard, you may want to mark them there BEFORE you leave!


In the end MOST of your cuts will not require pushsticks only the last couple of rips but a couple of cheap orange plastic ones will be fine, these are not difficult rips that require a bunch of specialized eqipment to do safely, those cuts exist, these are not them. Plus for not much more than a Gripper you can get the cheap miter saw which will make your life much easier!


Also, dunno if I made it clear last time but feel free to call me again and I will be happy to go over all this with you.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

The Grrrippers are clever but you need two of them to leap frog long, think stock. Also, the overarm guard/dust collection must be removed.

Another option is to use a fence stop as shown below. This will allow you to keep all the other safety devices in place. I suppose you can make your own stop too. This one is from Rockler.

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/36833-01-500.jpg

-Jeff :)

[Jeffrey Makiel]

By coincidence, narrow rips are being discussed at SMC here...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1353232&posted=1#post1353232

-Jeff :)

[Prashun Patel]

I second what Von said: break it down into narrow strips.

A couple other lessons learned:

- The bottom of your GRRRipper will get dusty and won't push well after a few cuts. Keep a rag soaked in DNA near by and keep wiping the rubber runners clean.

- Use a splitter. GRRipper can't be used with a blade guard, but you can make a mini splitter (if you need pix, I can send) if you don't have one that decouples frm the guard.

- If you don't have two GRIPPERS, then I like to push the rear end through with a push block as you're completing the cut. As you complete the cut, your hand will be right over the blade. An aux push stick will save you from having to exert too much downward pressure with the 'danger' hand.

[Rod Sheridan]

Valentine, taking the saw guard off is just a bad idea, period.

Regardless of whether the Gripper keeps your hands away from the blade while ripping, the fact remains that afterwards the blade is exposed.

Once the blade is exposed, it only takes an accidental contact with it while leaning over the saw, reaching for things, brushing a scrap away etc. to turn the day into a catastrophe.

If you can't run the machine with the guard provided, you need to do the operation on a different machine, or make a suitable guard and splitter/riving knife to allow the operation.

As others have indicated a 1.5" wide strip is probably large enough to be ripped with the stock guard and splitter in place, using a narrow push shoe made from 3/8" plywood.

Regards, Rod.

[glenn bradley]

I am also a big fan of Grr-Rippers and have two. In practice when ripping long stock, I guide by hand and use one Grr-Ripper for the last foot or so. I find the hand over hand method safer with lighter stuff but not heavy stock. YMMV. The spacing of the pads will easily work with your material on both sides of the blade. I would break the 48" x 48" pieces down to more manageable sizes before starting to rip the strips though.

[Joe Mioux]

keep your current safety guards in place,

I have grippers and use them, but if you are just cutting sheet goods, the factory supplied safety guard should be sufficient and probably will be less tiring and faster than using the Grippers.

the auxiliary fence is easy with these clamps. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17821&filter=auxilary%20fence

(this assumes your blade guard, anti-kickback splitter/device, pals can handle 1.5 inches.)

[Dennis Lopeman]

Great guys!! Today must be the Thin Strip cutting day!

I was also challenged with this a couple nights ago. I still have lots of strips to cut, so this stuff will be good info.

SO... my other challenge is taking my thin strips to the router table and running them through that REAL fast moving bit!!! I need a slider type thing or something... What are your ideas on that.

(Feel free to direct me to other threads)

Thanks, in advance.

[Myk Rian]

Setup a couple finger boards to hold the strips, and feed them through.

I have 2 Grrrippers and use them on everything. Nice to have around when you want to keep your fingers.

[Prashun Patel]

If you haven't done too much cutting, then I suggest that instead of ripping all pieces, then routing all of them, route the thicker stock, then rip it to width, then route the next edge on the thick stock, then rip it off, etc. Route/rip/route/rip.

That's a pretty common way of milling yr own routed lumber. Keeps you from having to get yr fingers close to the router bit until the end, at which point, I'd use your gripper.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I need to rip pieces 1.5" wide. I think that qualifies as small, no? I just don't see how I can start pushing a 4' long board with a gripper if my table has only like a foot from the edge to the blade. Can you start pushing with your hands, then once the piece is almost through, stop in the middle of the cut, grab the Gripper and continue?

The strong point of using the Gripper is it holds the offcut as well as your cut piece. Controlling both pieces and getting them away from the blade keeps the kickback from occuring, from either piece. 1.5" stuff, you can leave your guards in place, as everyone else says. Just hold the piece tight to the fence and you can shove both pieces past the blade. Use a push stick if you want. 1.5" I'm still comfortable with my fingers between the blade and the guard. Anything less the guard comes off and the riving knfe goes on. Then I use the Grippers.

Check the Gripper site they have lots of video clips. They should answer most of your questions.

[Valentine Azbelle]

Thanks for the replies, everybody. Sounds like for the bigger boards (which is what I'm gonna work with) featherboards are a better choice. I have a few questions:

1. I heard/read that you're not supposed to stop in the middle of the cut. In other words you're supposed to push through until the work piece is past the blade completely. Yet some other sources (including the Bosch manual) say you push the work piece until you're past 1" from the edge of the table, then stop, grab a push stick/block and continue pushing until done. My question is: can I stop in the middle of the cut? :confused: How far into the cut is it too late to stop?

2. If I'm ripping 1.5"-wide strips the guard on the Bosch leaves about 1/4" for a push stick, maybe a little more. If I use a skinny push stick I guess I could squeeze it in but then I'm pushing on the work piece next to the fence and consequently away from the fence - into the blade. And if I decide to use fence-mounted featherboards (in front and behind the blade) I can't get the pushstick in at all. Not without taking off the guard. I saw a video of a guy using Grip-Tites - he was ripping narrow stock - about 1" - by pushing a fairly long and wide board through with another board, then picking up the first board and use that to push through the second one and so on. Is that a common practice? That would actually work great for me!!!

3. I think part of the reason the guy in the video was able to do that is that Grip-Tites are somewhat wide and for an 1.5"-wide piece can hold down both cut and offcut pieces. Is there any non-magnetic featherboard that does that?

[Prashun Patel]

1. Personally, I think cuts should be made in a continuous motion. If I have to grab a push stick, I keep it on the fence so I can pick it up without shifting either my attention or pressure away from my left hand which will be RIGHT OVER THE BLADE! If 'stopping' causes you to shift either away, like Grand Master Flash says, "DON'T DO IT!"

2. I can't use skinny pushsticks. They scare me. I have a 2x4 push shoe like this:
http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/graphics16/woodworkingtips-push-block.jpg
Cut a kerf in the bottom of the shoe and the rear cleat so the blade can ride thru unimpeded. This will allow the block to push both the good piece and the cutoff piece through with proper pressure.

[Marty Paulus]

Valentine, I have been following your stories. This one, however, scares me. You are attempting to cut 1.5" thick MDF with a jobsite saw? You will want to build both infeed and out feed tables in my opinion. There is not enough table on the saw you have to properly hold even a 1/2 sheet and rip accurate 1.5" strips IMO without the infeed/outfeed tables. I am also guessing you are doing this by yourself. Don't! Get someone to help. These 1/2 sheets will be about 75lbs each if my math is correct. Not to mention does the saw have enough power to cut stock that thick? The specs on this saw state 4hp max. I doubt it will ever get close since it only runs on 110 power. Max it will put out is closer to 1.5hp. What blade are you going to run? I hope it is a good one because the MDF will dull it quick. Using this saw will take you quite a while to cut the sheets into the strips you are looking for. You may want to rethink some aspects of this project or at least realize what you are attempting to do here.

[Valentine Azbelle]

1. Personally, I think cuts should be made in a continuous motion. If I have to grab a push stick, I keep it on the fence so I can pick it up without shifting either my attention or pressure away from my left hand which will be RIGHT OVER THE BLADE! If 'stopping' causes you to shift either away, like Grand Master Flash says, "DON'T DO IT!"

I'm not really sure how you can keep continuous motion if you need to grab a push stick, even if it's on the fence. I will practice without running the blade first to see if I can even to that.


2. I can't use skinny pushsticks. They scare me. I have a 2x4 push shoe like this:
http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/graphics16/woodworkingtips-push-block.jpg
Cut a kerf in the bottom of the shoe and the rear cleat so the blade can ride thru unimpeded. This will allow the block to push both the good piece and the cutoff piece through with proper pressure.

I do like the design of that block. And it might be easier for me to make (than the one suggested in the Bosch manual). The problem is I can't use it with the Bosch guard and I'd rather not take it off.

[Prashun Patel]

'continuous motion' might overstate it: I really mean "no abrupt stops or abrupt adjustments in my position or hands or weight"

[Valentine Azbelle]

Valentine, I have been following your stories. This one, however, scares me. You are attempting to cut 1.5" thick MDF with a jobsite saw? You will want to build both infeed and out feed tables in my opinion. There is not enough table on the saw you have to properly hold even a 1/2 sheet and rip accurate 1.5" strips IMO without the infeed/outfeed tables.

Don't worry, I will build support tables all around: a 3'-wide outfeed table, a side table (the width of the Bosch table) and a narrower infeed table - just so I can comfortably place the MDF sheet and line it up without struggling with it.


I am also guessing you are doing this by yourself. Don't! Get someone to help.

That's one thing I probably can't do. If this one a one time thing, sure, I could ask a couple of friends to help me out. But since I'm gonna be doing this a lot I can't be depending on other people. Gotta figure out a way to do it alone.


These 1/2 sheets will be about 75lbs each if my math is correct.

75 lb. to me isn't that bad. I know handling weights in the gym and in the outside world is different but if I can shrug 585 lb. I think I can deal with 75 lb. of MDF. ;) Also I'm not cutting the sheet in half at the lumberyard but in 3 parts (maybe even 4). So at worst it should be around 60 lb., possibly less. Oh, also I will be using ultra-light MDF, which is supposedly 40% lighter than regular MDF.


Not to mention does the saw have enough power to cut stock that thick? The specs on this saw state 4hp max. I doubt it will ever get close since it only runs on 110 power. Max it will put out is closer to 1.5hp.

I didn't realize that was a concern. You don't think a 4100 can handle 1.5" MDF? Isn't MDF easier to cut than wood? It's supposed to cut up to 3.25" thick wood, I thought MDF should pose no problem. Am I wrong?


What blade are you going to run? I hope it is a good one because the MDF will dull it quick.

The blade was going to be my next question. Since MDF doesn't really have a grain should I use a crosscutting blade or a ripping blade? I was thinking of the Freud LM72R010 since it meets the Bosch criteria for the kerf and blade thickness, and can also handle over 2" thick material. Any good?


Using this saw will take you quite a while to cut the sheets into the strips you are looking for. You may want to rethink some aspects of this project or at least realize what you are attempting to do here.

I am not in a rush - there is no deadline. I can afford taking time on every cut. Yes, I am constantly rethinking the aspects of this project. I can't wait until the rethinking stops and the project starts. :) However I want to have it all figured out before I begin. :cool:

[Valentine Azbelle]

'continuous motion' might overstate it: I really mean "no abrupt stops or abrupt adjustments in my position or hands or weight"

OK, that sounds more realistic. What about gradual stops? How do people make featherboards anyway? Don't they stop in the middle of the cut?

[Myk Rian]

Please post pics of the bruise you get from kickback.

[Valentine Azbelle]

Please post pics of the bruise you get from kickback.

??? :confused: The whole point of me asking questions is so there would be no kickback, or at least no bruises. Am I being steered in a wrong direction? Did I say I was gonna do something that you think would result in kickback?

[Floyd Mah]

Use a bandsaw. No kickback. You can grip your work and walk it past the blade. Thickness of your workpiece is largely irrelevant. You can provide simple infeed and outfeed support with a pair of roller stands. Plus a lot less MDF dust since the bandsaw wastes less of your workpiece.

Weight is a consideration on the table saw because you are maneuvering a large sheet of heavy material from the edge, whereas when you are lifting weights, you don't lift the weight by one end. Also you are trying to keep the workpiece applied to the fence and don't have the luxury of using the area of a gym to stay balanced.

Another option are the anti-kickback safety rollers. http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2003794/2003794.aspx. You can install a set of these on the fence. Buy the set that rotates only in the forward direction. Align them so that they rotate slightly towards the fence. They will keep your work against the fence. They also prevent kickback. They are really the answer to your problem, as well as costing less than two Grr-Rippers. I've used these. If they are mounted properly, you can even let go of the work on the tablesaw (not that I am suggesting that) without the work bouncing into the blade and producing a kickback. They can actually make a task like yours a more pleasant experience.

[Valentine Azbelle]

Use a bandsaw. No kickback. You can grip your work and walk it past the blade. Thickness of your workpiece is largely irrelevant. You can provide simple infeed and outfeed support with a pair of roller stands. Plus a lot less MDF dust since the bandsaw wastes less of your workpiece.

Alas at this point bandsaw is out of the question. No space and no money for another piece of equipment. Perhaps in the future. Thanks for the tip though.


Weight is a consideration on the table saw because you are maneuvering a large sheet of heavy material from the edge, whereas when you are lifting weights, you don't lift the weight by one end. Also you are trying to keep the workpiece applied to the fence and don't have the luxury of using the area of a gym to stay balanced.

I realize all that of course (I was partially kidding). Like I said, I am going to make support tables around the saw (with enough space to get to the cutter of course) to keep it manageable.


Another option are the anti-kickback safety rollers. http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2003794/2003794.aspx. You can install a set of these on the fence. Buy the set that rotates only in the forward direction. Align them so that they rotate slightly towards the fence. They will keep your work against the fence. They also prevent kickback. They are really the answer to your problem, as well as costing less than two Grr-Rippers. I've used these. If they are mounted properly, you can even let go of the work on the tablesaw (not that I am suggesting that) without the work bouncing into the blade and producing a kickback. They can actually make a task like yours a more pleasant experience.

Yeah, I am definitely considering these. I think at this point I will have to forego GRR-Rippers in favor of either 2 Grip-Tites (mounted on the fence) or MagSwitch system or these rollers. The website says they are mounted permanently (if not used with the track). What exactly does that mean? How permanent is the mount? Do I need to drill into the fence or something?

[Paul Ryan]

I think you should be all ready to go. A band saw is a nice tool but not necessary for cutting strips like you are planing on. If it were me I would just cut the panel down to manage able size. And start cutting the strips. 1 1/2 is stlll pretty wide. If you were cutting 1/4" stips that is a different story. I personally wouldn't worry about grip tite and things like that. 2 push sticks and start cutting.

It is better to always try to cut in one continuous motion, but that is usually just to avoid burning. That shouldn't be a problem with MDF. So don't worry if you stop to grap a push stick. Your saw should have plenty of power the cut and MDF weither it is 1/4 thick to 3" thick, MDF is like melted butter.

I would try a decent 40 tooth blade and see if the cuts are clean. If not try a better blade. The stock blade may even cut clean enough for you. Dont spend a fortune on a blade, if you will be cutting lots of MDF, it eats up blades faster than solid wood. Check out the local home depot and buy a 40 tooth diablo blade, they are cheap and cut very nice. Well suited for MDF if you ask me.

I am not going to tell you not to use the guard because that is not my place and are not my fingers. But if you only have 1/4 clearance between the guard and the fence, I think it would be less cumbersome with it off. If you only have the blade 3/16 above the work piece and use push sticks you should be safe. What you are doing is exactly what table saws are for. The guard is the right piece of saftey equipment but some times it doesn't allow enough clearance. If you take the guard off make sure you still use a splitter, and keep your hands away from the blade. And if you are still skittish, add a piece to extend the width of your fence. Good luck.

[Valentine Azbelle]

I think you should be all ready to go. A band saw is a nice tool but not necessary for cutting strips like you are planing on. If it were me I would just cut the panel down to manage able size. And start cutting the strips. 1 1/2 is stlll pretty wide. If you were cutting 1/4" stips that is a different story. I personally wouldn't worry about grip tite and things like that. 2 push sticks and start cutting.

Cool, thanks. I will probably still spring for a pair of Grip-Tites with rollers (finally figured out how to mount them onto my fence) but yeah, I think it's time to try cutting.



I would try a decent 40 tooth blade and see if the cuts are clean. If not try a better blade. The stock blade may even cut clean enough for you. Dont spend a fortune on a blade, if you will be cutting lots of MDF, it eats up blades faster than solid wood. Check out the local home depot and buy a 40 tooth diablo blade, they are cheap and cut very nice. Well suited for MDF if you ask me.

So Diablo is a lower grade of Freud? I saw one at the HD for like $29. One thing with the Diablo blades I can't find their blade thickness. Bosch recommends the blade to be under 0.088" (with the kirf 0.093" or more). I'd like to get the blade to their specs to make sure everything works smoothly. In fact if MDF messes up blades that quick I might just stick with the stock Bosch blade for now (40-teeth).


I am not going to tell you not to use the guard because that is not my place and are not my fingers. But if you only have 1/4 clearance between the guard and the fence, I think it would be less cumbersome with it off. If you only have the blade 3/16 above the work piece and use push sticks you should be safe. What you are doing is exactly what table saws are for. The guard is the right piece of saftey equipment but some times it doesn't allow enough clearance. If you take the guard off make sure you still use a splitter, and keep your hands away from the blade. And if you are still skittish, add a piece to extend the width of your fence. Good luck.

I think I might be able to keep the guard on if I use the Grip-Tites. I saw a couple of videos where a guy was cutting the strips off of one board by pushing it through with another, then cutting a strip off of that one and pushing it through with the first one, and so on, thus continuously ripping narrow strips off of two boards. His hands didn't go anywhere near the blade and he didn't need push sticks. That seems like a fast, efficient and safe way to do what I want to do. I just don't know if I can do it.

And yes, even if I do take a guard off, I will definitely leave the riving knife on as well as anti-kickback prawls.


I can't believe I had a tool for a week now and haven't even plugged it in yet! :eek: You guys scared me good. :D

[Dennis Lopeman]

After trying to find my way back to this thread, I discovered an old thread. Go here:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=73698&page=2
and look near the bottom. A couple pictures of another version of the jig

I just finished my version tonight... Inspired by the Rockler jig. This one above is a little like it too.

I could add a bearing at the tip (like the Rockler one) if I feel a need.

I call mine The Boob Jig (LOL)

I spent $1.60 for the screw and the knob. The base is maple - I like the knot thing in there. The slider is Cherry, the block under the knob is hickory... and the washer is metal... I had to make the screw shorter using my air-cut-off tool. And I burned the crapola out of my thumb cuz it was so hot!!! Duh! I nice thread mark of the screw burned right in!

I might make a groove where the block will stay straight, but it really doesn't change it function - but might have to make the screw shorter... oh nevermind!! ;)

obviously you could probably buy a couple of these things - like the cherry slider could be an aluminum or plastic one. I just wanted to practice trying something new. If you make it out of wood, then cut the cone first, then the grove. I had chip out in the groove when i did the screw hole. But its fine - its hidden under.

OH - and there's one of those safety roller things in that picture... Those things are great, too!! Use these together with the boob jig.

[Dennis Lopeman]

Haha - My wife just saw this picture of the Boob Jig and she commented that "it had breast cancer!" (that knot in the wood) - maybe I should put one of those pink ribbons on there.

(and I'm not making fun of the actual serious issue of breast cancer in a real sense - if that makes sense! - Meaning: I mean no offence.) :)

[Valentine Azbelle]

Thanks for the advice. Actually I have pretty much finalized my setup. I decided to go with a pair of Grip-Tites with the rollerguides coupled with a Grip-Tite steel fenceplate. I will also make a couple of support tables: a 3'x4' outfeed table and 2'x4' side/infeed table (used in an L configuration around the saw). That should work well for what I need to do.

The boob jig or anything attached to the table isn't the best solution for my particular situation. I need to make repetative cuts of the same width and I'd rather not have to re-clamp the featherboard/jig between the cuts. Besides I will be working with fairly wide boards and there's just not enough space on my table for this kind of setup. Thanks though.

[Dennis Lopeman]

I'm going to add a slight modification to my Boob Jig:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=126392

See post from Joe Scharle (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/member.php?u=4332)

I just saw this - (see picture a couple down) - to test wobble...

Great idea!! I'll prbably have all kinds of gizmos on within a year or so, huh!?