Question on Buffing after applying danish oil

[Roger Chandler]

Although I have been turning for over 8 years [most of it was furniture parts] I have just begun using danish oil for bowls, etc. in the last year, and only a few months ago got a Beall Buffing system.

My question is can the buffing be done after danish oil is applied, or does it have to be done before wiping on the danish oil? What would be the difference in the end result?

Some of you that are experienced in this area might be able to give me a few pointers. Also, would some other type of finish coat after buffing make it "pop" as they say? What techniques do you use and like the most?

Thanks for your help! :confused:

[patrick michael stein]

hi roger

what i do is put danish oil on let dry for about 72hours depending on temp and humity. then apply three coats of wipe on poly .then i buff with the beall three step buffing system.





patrick

[Roger Chandler]

hi roger

what i do is put danish oil on let dry for about 72hours depending on temp and humity. then apply three coats of wipe on poly .then i buff with the beall three step buffing system.





patrick


Patrick,

Does this method that you use produce a very high gloss finish, or more of a satin type finish?

[patrick michael stein]

more gloss.





patrick

[Karl Card]

I tried ca once. I must have done something wrong because it just did not even come close to using deft. I take my pens and sand them 600 and then steel wool them with 0000. Then I take a lint free cloth and make sure nothing is left on them. I then have some hooks that I take and "dip" them in the deft lacquer. When it dries I spin them again using 0000 steel wool and then apply triple E and man they are shiny and clear as glass and no finger prints and the colors in the wood look like they are wet...

[Robert McGowen]

Oil is one of the best finishes you can use when you are going to buff the piece also. Use your Danish Oil until you are satisfied with it, wait until the smell is gone, then buff away. (Or you can be like me, wait a couple of hours and then buff it!) Danish Oil penetrates the wood, so if you buffed first, I do not think that the oil would be able to penetrate the wood and you would probably have a mess. YMMV

[Roger Chandler]

Oil is one of the best finishes you can use when you are going to buff the piece also. Use your Danish Oil until you are satisfied with it, wait until the smell is gone, then buff away. (Or you can be like me, wait a couple of hours and then buff it!) Danish Oil penetrates the wood, so if you buffed first, I do not think that the oil would be able to penetrate the wood and you would probably have a mess. YMMV


Thanks Robert,

I like to use danish oil, as it does indeed penetrate, and I have found that when I use it, the movement of the grain is limited by the oil a bit because it also helps stabilize the moisture in the wood, and keeps evaporation at bay...not all, but some.

Those times when you do wait only a couple of hours before you buff, does it give less a glossy finish than when you wait a week or so?

[Mark Hubl]

I am one of the most impatient finishers I know, but almost any oil finish I have worked with would not be ready for buffing after a couple of hours. Just going to gum up your buffing wheels. Need to check your specific "oil" finish to see whats in it. They run the gamut of mostly oil to mostly poly. Most will have drying agents to help the oil dry faster. If mostly oil then it is a penetrating finish that hardens in the wood structure, if more a varnish or poly then it will have a film. For true oils you are buffing more of the wood itself, for the films you are buffing the film.

I would definetly finish first and then buff. Most compounds have some sort of carrier, I believe them to be waxy. This will act as a sealer on the wood and hinder oil penetration.

In my experience oils won't get as shiny as shellac, lacquer or poly. To me they have a richer satiny finish. I prefer this finish on many pieces. If I want something to really have a shine I like lacquer.

[Roger Chandler]

I am one of the most impatient finishers I know, but almost any oil finish I have worked with would not be ready for buffing after a couple of hours. Just going to gum up your buffing wheels. Need to check your specific "oil" finish to see whats in it. They run the gamut of mostly oil to mostly poly. Most will have drying agents to help the oil dry faster. If mostly oil then it is a penetrating finish that hardens in the wood structure, if more a varnish or poly then it will have a film. For true oils you are buffing more of the wood itself, for the films you are buffing the film.

I would definetly finish first and then buff. Most compounds have some sort of carrier, I believe them to be waxy. This will act as a sealer on the wood and hinder oil penetration.

In my experience oils won't get as shiny as shellac, lacquer or poly. To me they have a richer satiny finish. I prefer this finish on many pieces. If I want something to really have a shine I like lacquer.

Thank you Mark,

Information like this is very helpful. The "hardening" you speak of, is it true of danish oil as well as tung oil? I have been using the "Watco" brand danish oil that comes in the quart size tin, if that is of any help to you.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I generally let my oil finishes dry for a week or more. I have had some I have tried to buff what I thought was to soon and it turned gummy on me. So I have learned patience and wait.

[Mark Hubl]

Roger,

I would check out Russ Farfield's site. http://www.woodturnerruss.com/FinishingSecrets.html He has several excellent articles in the finishing section. See the one on wiping finishes. He discusses Watco and the changes it has gone through over the years. I am sure others have some other finishing sites that have tons of information on them as well, and will chime in.

I have used pure tung with no dryers, you better be patient, it will weap for months. For Danish oil these days I have been using Minwax Anitque Oil. Over the years I find myself coming back to this finish. It just works for me. I have not used Watco, but many speak highly of it. Of course there are what seems to be millions of home brews. I work with shellac and wax, Minwax AO, wipe on poly and lacquer depending on the project. I would go with the directions on the watco for dry time and then add some fudge factor. If you are doing a piece in oak, elm or other really porous type wood you will need to add some additional time.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Roger - I started out using Watco Natural Danish Oil as a finish for all my turnings and while I liked the way the oil highlighted the grain of the wood - I did not like the limited protection of the wood. I remember how just a few drops of water would raise the grain of the wood - months after it had been finished!

I played with a number of finishes and for the past few years have been using Minwax Wipe-On Gloss Poly. Not advocating that particular brand - just that I like using poly. You can get poly in a water-based or oil-based mix. The water dries clear but will raise the grain a little - requiring some additional sanding. The oil based soaks into the wood and highlights the grain in the same manner as Watco but provides a seal that protects the wood.

Like anything else in turning - it is what works best for you and you can only determine that after giving it a try.

As far as buffing - I always wait at least 3 days and usually a lot longer before buffing. I actually have some pieces that have been waiting to be buffed for 6 to 8 months. Should be ready....

[Roger Chandler]

Roger - I started out using Watco Natural Danish Oil as a finish for all my turnings and while I liked the way the oil highlighted the grain of the wood - I did not like the limited protection of the wood. I remember how just a few drops of water would raise the grain of the wood - months after it had been finished!

I played with a number of finishes and for the past few years have been using Minwax Wipe-On Gloss Poly. Not advocating that particular brand - just that I like using poly. You can get poly in a water-based or oil-based mix. The water dries clear but will raise the grain a little - requiring some additional sanding. The oil based soaks into the wood and highlights the grain in the same manner as Watco but provides a seal that protects the wood.

Like anything else in turning - it is what works best for you and you can only determine that after giving it a try.

As far as buffing - I always wait at least 3 days and usually a lot longer before buffing. I actually have some pieces that have been waiting to be buffed for 6 to 8 months. Should be ready....

Thank you Steve,

I have an additional question as to the buffing. Once the danish oil has dried and it is time to buff, do you do all 3 steps? {triple E, white diamond and wax?] And what speeds do you use? I know Beall recommends about 1700-1800 rpm, but do you think that is the speed for the best finish?

Also, is wipe on poly[water based] a food safe finish? Sometimes when a bowl or vessel is given away, one never knows what the recipient might do with it .....:eek:

[Bill Bolen]

I do much the same as Bernie when using Danish Oil. I use the speed recommended by Beal and all 3 wheels. Wipe on poly is food safe (all finishes are) as long as it is cured. I call it cured when I can no longer smell the finish when held close to your nose...Bill...

[Steve Schlumpf]

Roger - using all 3 wheels really depends on the type of wood you are going to buff. You do not want to use white diamond on an open grain wood - like Walnut or you will have the white compound embedded in the grain.

From everything I have read - all finishes are food safe once they are cured. The actual curing time will depend on a lot of factors - like relative humidity, type of finish, wood moisture content, etc. I tend to go along with Bill - if I can still smell it - it's not cured.

[Roger Chandler]

Roger - using all 3 wheels really depends on the type of wood you are going to buff. You do not want to use white diamond on an open grain wood - like Walnut or you will have the white compound embedded in the grain.

From everything I have read - all finishes are food safe once they are cured. The actual curing time will depend on a lot of factors - like relative humidity, type of finish, wood moisture content, etc. I tend to go along with Bill - if I can still smell it - it's not cured.


Thanks Steve,

I have a good bit of black walnut, sealed and waiting to be made into blanks, and getting a white mess embeded into the grain, would ruin my day for sure! You guys are really helping me out a lot, and I am grateful! :)