Freeze-proof Outdoor Water Faucet???

[Kent A Bathurst]

No, not a sillcock - I've installed those - won't work in this application.

I have a coupla large water tanks collecting roof runoff, with valves connected to garden hose(s). It got cold this winter (for Atlanta, anyway) and my valves are toast.

I need to replace them. In retrospect, draining the tanks (550 gallons total) woulda done the trick, then wait for spring rains to refill them (2-1/2" of rain sends 550 gal into them). That may be the only solution.

However, there are soooo many people here that are smarter than me, I thought I'd at least put the idea up for comment? A design similar to a standard hose bibb would work, but someone's hands don't work that well at her age, and I'd much prefer a design with a large handle like those on a ball valve.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

How often does it get to freezing there?

if it's not often, I would suggest some sort of heating element in the tank (similar to what's used in outdoor water dishes/buckets) for the tank, and then some sort of foam "slip-on" cover for the valve, to keep the cold out.

[Paul Ryan]

You could just put heat tape on the valves and pipes and only plug it in when it is going to get cold. Would be a cheap and effective method. Wouldn't cost much electricty because the heat tape wouldn't be used more than once or twice a year.

[Jim Terrill]

You could just put heat tape on the valves and pipes and only plug it in when it is going to get cold. Would be a cheap and effective method. Wouldn't cost much electricty because the heat tape wouldn't be used more than once or twice a year.

If you are really lazy you can even get temperature control plugs for them as well. Once the temp is <40f, they trigger the wire to go on. We use them for roof melt wires, which can burn a ton of electricity when they are all fired up.

[Prashun Patel]

Where are your tanks? Inside or out?

I believe yr best bet is to drain the tanks each year. Then remove the gaskets in the valve for the winter so residual water doesn't cause it to expand and crack.

[Lee Schierer]

I would think that a metal ball valve would be relatively immune to freeze damage just by the nature of its design. However, I've never had one installed where it would freeze to be sure.

[Dave Lehnert]

1) Drain the tank and run RV antifreeze through the valve.

2) You can use a heat tape but most are 6ft or longer and the whole thing needs to be attached to a pipe and such.

3) I use a spot light on the valve of my oil furnace line. Safe and generates heat to keep it warm.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Where are your tanks? Inside or out?

I believe yr best bet is to drain the tanks each year. Then remove the gaskets in the valve for the winter so residual water doesn't cause it to expand and crack.


Shawn, Shawn, Shawn........550 gallons of rainwater? Stored INSIDE the house? And the valves FROZE? :D:D:D Its Atlanta Georgia USA, bud, not Atlanta, Yukon Territories, Canada. I'm sorry - not picking on you, but I almost lost a mouthful of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale when I read that.

The valves on the tanks aren't the issue - its the brass ball valves. I use 'em on a home-built manifold with a half-dozen hoses in the main garden. Disconnect everything, leave the valves open, they winter just fine - here and in Michigan. Well - actually, the tank valves are an issue - these are 2 recycled industrial containers with big 'ol plastic valves that I ran brass ball valves feeding water hoses off of. By the time the "ruh-roh" moment hit, went to turn off the tank valves, found out they weren't water-tight, and was told - in. very. terse. sentences. - that it was too freakin' late in the season to drain THAT water on THOSE plants. So I couldn't drain and oisconnect hises + ball valves.

So all I need to do is to drain the tanks at the end of the season, pull all the garden hoses and open the (new, replacement) ball valves. Which is what you just suggested - and you are dead-nuts correct.

In the interest of full disclosure.........the downspout originally fed into an underground drain system. I diverted it into the tanks, then added an overflow directed back into the drain system. "Why not," you might ask, "just put a hose into the underground drain system and open the valve?"

Why not, indeed. Occurred to me yesterday, not in November. Sheeesh. Fortunately, this all happened in '09, so it missed the cut-off for entries in the '10 Moronic Moment Competition.

Thanks, all.

Oh - PS - these tanks "showed up", ground elevation changes meant I had to sink holes and build a PT lumber structure on 4 x 4's, then plumb it all. Got it all finished 4 days AFTER Georgia's 2 year drought restrictions were lifted. It just gets funnier and funnier, eh?

[Craig Summers]

You might consider a small insulated box (plywood and styrofoam) and a thermostat controlled forced air heater (or an incandescant light bulb)

just make it removable for when you want access to the valves

[James Rambo]

When I visit Dawsonville Ga. (about an hour north of Atlanta) in the campground where I stay, they have self draining hose hookups when you shut the water off to the camper they drain themselves below the frostline. Would this be what you want.
http://www.shop.com/Yard+Hydrants?g=3&t=2&k=24&nbc=&nsb=

[Kent A Bathurst]

Maybe, James - I'll check it out - thanks. Dawsonville + environs is beautiful, ain't it?