Scraper Burnisher differences.

[Tony Shea]

I am in need of a burnisher to use on my new set of card scrapers. I really can't see spending a bunch on one of these items but then again don't understand what the differences in quality amount to. Aside from the custom handles, what differenciates a carbide burnisher in terms of cheap and expensive ones? I had originally ordered a Hock burnisher without the handle as it was fairly inexpensive through Tools For Working Wood. I could make my own handle or just use it as is for a bit till I get around to making a handle. But they are on backorder till god knows when and I would like to make use out of my card scrapers like yesterday. I mean isn't a carbide rod a carbide rod is a carbide rod? Why such price differences?

[Tony Zaffuto]

Whatever type of burnisher you use, it needs 1. to be harder than the scraper and 2. highly polished. Just because something is carbide does not make it better than a piece of hardened drill rod, for example, if the carbide is not polished and the drill rod.

[Prashun Patel]

Most carbide "burnishers" will be polished already, and unless you rub them up against something harder then themselves, they'll stay that way for a good time. The bigger (for me) culprit in causing a serrated edge on the scraper is not filing and honing the scraper properly.

That being said, a less-than-smooth edge can still scrape effectively. But you'll need to go over the piece with a finer abrasive to remove the micro scratches.

The big diff in burnisher prices is the length and thickness of the rod. Bigger and longer means you'll have better leverage in turning a burr.

If you just want a temporary burnisher so you can practice technique while you wait for your 'real' one to arrive, then use the edge of a long screw driver. Worked for me for a while.

For tight curved scrapers like a gooseneck, there is a small, cheap burnisher from Lee Valley that almost works like a paring knife. I actually use that one for all my scraper burnishing - but I don't recommend it unless you are very cheap. I will eventually get a better one.

[mike holden]

Tony,
Before you buy a burnishing tool, try using the side of a bench chisel.
You may find that is all you need.
Mike

[Tony Shea]

Thanks, that would be great to attempt to get an edge before my burnisher arrives.

[Sam Takeuchi]

Since I lost my dedicated burnisher, I've been using a 3/8" HSS drill bit shank. If you got one around, give it a shot.

[David Gendron]

+1 on the little burnisher from LV, I realy like it, in fact, after a wile, I decided to upgrade to the Try-Burnisher from LV as well and was realy desapointed with it so went back to the little one!

[Paul Atkins]

I use a broken 1/4" carbide router bit set into a handle. Works great and I had the bit.

[Tony Shea]

I just tried out the chisel idea with a beat up chisel and it actually worked pretty well. My first try ever burnishing gave me some decent little curls off some scrap poplar. Didn't get the real smooth finish that I hear about and have experienced with a freinds scraper. But all in all wasn't bad. I may try the 3/8" HSS drill bit as I know I got plenty of those kicking around.

[Don Orr]

And don't forget to lube the burnisher. A drop of oil is all it takes.

[Prashun Patel]

If you got some decent curls the first time scraping, you're a better man than I.

[glenn bradley]

I have the Veritas burnisher received as a gift. Before that I used an old valve out of a 327 Chevy scrounged from a shade-tree mechanic neighbor. I will still sometimes just use a drill bit or a screwdriver shaft if it is handier.

[Josh Bowman]

Here's a simple tool you can make. It uses, a block of wood and 50 cent steel role pins. The role pins seem to be very hard. 1st mill the wood to size....your preference. Drill one hole at 90 degrees and the other at 15 degrees or what ever you want. Cut krefs in the edges of the wood and at least as deep as the holes. Tap in the pins. After filing off the old wire edge, role another edge first with the 90 degree then roll it even more over with the 15 degree. You could even get fancy and drill two 15 degree holes so that both sides could be rolled at one time.
There are several ways to skin this cat, I like this one because it's fun, but I've also used a screw driver shaft and it works as well.;)

[Tony Shea]

Now that my freind is some thinking. Simple yet effective. It would take most of the human error out of keeping the burnisher on the same angle across the whole card. Thanks for that. Now what exactly are these pins?

[Josh Bowman]

Now that my freind is some thinking. Simple yet effective. It would take most of the human error out of keeping the burnisher on the same angle across the whole card. Thanks for that. Now what exactly are these pins?
Go to Lowes, HD or Ace and ask for a roll pin. Below is a random site I googled. They're used to hold round stuff onto shafts....like a dowel. Very Cheap.
http://dynamicarmament.com/images/dpmsparts/triggerguardpin_thmbnl.jpghttp://dynamicarmament.com/items/ar-15-m-16-mil-spec-parts/pin-trigger-guard-roll-pin-triggerguardpin-detail.htm

[James Taglienti]

Crazy ! I just made one of those last night and I really thought I was being revolutionary! Mine looks almost the same but I drilled the hole so my burnisher would snug right up into it. The preliminary tests have been very rewarding!-