ROS vs. Belt Sander

[Mickey Elam]

Does anyone out there have a comparison or opinion between a random orbit sander and a belt sander for end grain stock removal? I have a butcher block that needs flattening and I'd rather get an aggressive or dual action ROS than a belt sander, as I'd have more use for the ROS in the future. My thinking is that if I can get 70-80% of the performance of a belt sander out of an aggressive ROS, then that's the way for me to go.

Thanks

[Carl Eyman]

If you can only have one and don't need a belt sander for other tasks, I'd go ROS

[John Miliunas]

ROS! You'd be surprised how much stock a more aggressive ROS, combined with some "assertive" sandpaper, can take off! :) Back off the paper grits and you have a pretty nice finish sander. Just MHO.... :)

[Ted Shrader]

Mickey -

Have you considered a cabinet scraper? Between sanders - it would be easier to get a flat surface witha belt sander. However, a ROS would get more overall use. Maybe ROS and scraper?

Regards,
Ted

[John Miliunas]

Mickey -

Have you considered a cabinet scraper? Maybe ROS and scraper?

Regards,
Ted

Yeah, but Ted...But, but, but....'ya can't plug the scraper in! :eek: :cool:

[Tyler Howell]

With those options the ROS has more control (IMHO) and doesn't "dive-in or catch an edge like a BS.

Learning the Neander ways, for that task I'd lean toward a Scrub, jointer, jack and scraper. :cool:

[Jamie Buxton]

How much material to you have to remove? A sixteenth or so would be as much as I'd do with a sander. For more than that, I'd do the bulk of the work with a router and a flattening jig.

[Scott Coffelt]

You might also consider locating a drum sander if it's the top side your sanding, you would get a much truer sanding. For the, have you thought about a router bit and then final sanding with a ROS?

[Michael Stafford]

I'm with Jamie, I vote for the flattening jig and a router. All you have to do is get two straight boards and mount them so they are in the same plane edgewise. Then construct a wide stiff router mounting plate that you can slide on the rails described above. Then mount a straight planer bit in your plunge router and creep up on it until you have achieved the flatness you desire. Little sanding and you're done.

[Ted Shrader]

John -

Sorry. I humbly apologize for potential mis-direction. :) Sort of like when I go to the toolbox and open the screwdriver drawer and get out a "cordless" screwdriver.

Also write me up for not advocating acquisition of additional tools. :)

Ted

[Mickey Elam]

Normally, I'd take the Neander route, but this it a true butcher block I'm dealing with - it's all end-grain that needs flattening. I don't have a large, low-angle plane such as a Stanley 62; I do have a low-angle block plane (Stanley 65), but the prospect of using it to flatten a 18"x22" butcher block is unsavory at best. I'll probably use the straight-edge/router method, but would like to rationalyze the purchase of a new tool ;). Of course, maybe the new tool needs to be a Lee Valley Low-Angle Smoother.

Thanks,

Mickey