drawer bottom mat'l?

[Jay Yoder]

I just discovered a big OOPS on my shop cabinet drawers. I just discovered that all of the bottoms I had cut are too short by 3/4"! I am planning on using 3/4 extension slides for these drawers. I figure my options are:
1) make drawers narrower and "shim" the case walls the 3/8" on either side or 2) make the drawers the regular widths and wither dado or glue and nail the bottom to frame.

I was thinking hardboard here as it is cheap and I have easy access to it. I was contemplating 3/16 punched hardboard (easy to make dividers if needed). My concern would be how much would these bottoms sag if any? Or am I overanalyzing this situation? I also have some 1/4" hardboard that is not punched for the deeper drawers. Any thoughts?

[Ray Newman]

What is "punched hardboard"?

Three-sixteenths and/or 1/4" sound light to me, except for small drawers and those not intended to hold much weight.

How big are these drawers?

[Jamie Buxton]

So it is the drawer bottoms that are narrow? But the drawer box is the correct width? If so, pitch the bottoms, buy new plywood, and make new bottoms.

[BOB OLINGER]

IMO, single thickness of either hardboard is too light even if doubled some way. Chalk up the OOPS and buy more material for the right sized bottoms. You'll be much happier in the long run.

[Tony Shea]

Use at least 1/4" plywood for the bottoms. For shop cabinets that usually hold a heavy load I would suggest 1/2" plywood bottoms. No harboard especially if your considering the stuff with holes. Just redo the bottoms and eat the loss.

[Peter Quinn]

Ditto all of the above. Repurpose the mistakes, buy new material, use at least 3/8" thickness for the bottoms. Stay away from MDF or hard board for hard working shop cabs with any span at all, or any depth that will be loaded with tools.