What's causing my poor resaw results?

[Dan Friedrichs]

Some recent threads where people were claiming nearly-glue-up-ready joints from their bandsaws got my interested in improving the performance of my bandsaw.

I have a Laguna LT14. I did some tune-up, then resawed a few boards. I suspect the surfaces of these boards are much rougher than I could be getting. Attached are pictures showing the resawn faces next to the planed faces.

I suspect 3 possible causes of this roughness:
1) Adjusting the wheel coplanarity is not easy. I got them to within 0.005", which seems "close enough" - would you agree?

2) The wheels are not perfectly round - at most, they're off by 0.005". I suppose this could be fixed by dressing the tires, but I doubt this amount is worth worrying about - would you agree?

3) Finally, the blades I'm using are Laguna's cheap ones (not the nice Resaw kings, but just the normal steel ones). The results in the attached pictures are with a new 1/2" 4TPI. I highly suspect that these are el-cheapo blades, and are causing most of my problems. Should I buy a Woodslicer? I don't do *that much* resawing, and have several cheap 1/4" blades that work fine for curve work, so I'm looking for an economical resaw-only blade (so I was thinking of the Woodslicer over the Trimaster or something more expensive).

[Chip Lindley]

Looks like you are getting the maximum from the blade you are using. Your resaw is straight, and the saw marks are consistent. Same decent results I get from a Starrett 1/2"x 4 TPI hook-tooth blade. Other more exotic/more expensive blades may give finer results.

I am more concerned with consistent straight-line sawing than a glue line finish. Resaw veneers are sanded to thickness anyhow.

[Paul Atkins]

I'd say the blade is the major suspect, but the technique is important too. Easy steady pressure on the piece is key to even cuts. The second board on the first picture looks like loose blade and uneven feed. Just my 2 cents.

[bob hertle]

I'd say 80% of your problem is your blade, 10% consistency of feedrate. Balance of the problem could be a combination of small things. For instance how are you tensioning? I like high tension for straight line cutting which includes resawing. It may not seem like much, but .005" runout on the wheel(s) could be the source of some vibration being transferred to the blade. I like to see no more than .002, less is better. For the time being though, disregard the runout and concentrate on blade and technique.

I think if you get a good, narrow kerf bi-metal, or even carbon blade of the appropriate tooth count, resaw against a fence with featherboards, concentrate on consistent feeding, and use enough tension, your results will drastically improve to where you won't be worrying about the saw. If you're still having problems, post back.

Good luck
Bob

[Robert Parrish]

I agree with everyone it is probably the blade. I had the same problem with my Rikon 14" saw until I switched to a Timber Wolf 1/2" x 4 tpi blade and followed their mounting instructions. It is a low tension blade and track great.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Dan,

I agree with the above posters.

I suspect blade and inconsistent feedrate. I think a new good quality blade is more important than brand. JMHO.

I recently resawed on my MM-16 for the first time. I had never resawn before ....ever.

I mounted a new Olsen 3/4" bi-metal blade....set the saw up for the blade.....honed the back corners and sides of the blade behind the gullets (the weld IOW). I set fence for blade drift by resawing a piece of 13" talll apricot. Then I resawed various thickness of koa for a coworker makes guitars.

It worked well.

If you don't have Mark Duginske's latest book......it selling at Amazon for $13.57 a couple of weeks ago. It is an invaluable bandsaw setup and troubleshooting guide. I bought it once from the publisher...loaned it out and it didn't come home. I bought it again a month or so ago from Amazon. Invaluable aid!

[Dan Friedrichs]

Thanks, all. Ken, I'll take your advice and get that book - it's been on my list for awhile.

I've heard good things about the Woodslicer, so I think I'll get one of those and give it a try.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Dan,

Here's the name:

The New Complete Guide to The Bandsaw....by Mark Duginske

It's $13.57

[Stephen Edwards]

Perhaps others, with more resawing experience than I, know something that I don't know. As for me, I think it's unrealistic to expect a glue up ready cut on the BS.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Dan,

Here's the name:

The New Complete Guide to The Bandsaw....by Mark Duginske

It's $13.57

Yep. Got my copy 4 days ago. Read it 2 times. Good investment.

[Myk Rian]

Perhaps others, with more resawing experience than I, know something that I don't know. As for me, I think it's unrealistic to expect a glue up ready cut on the BS.
You're right. I never expect it.

[Jeff Willard]

If the TriMaster is too spendy for you, you may want to consider the WoodMaster CT. A little more economical, and I hear, almost as good as the TM.

BTW, this is what a TriMaster is capable of.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Ah, now that's what I'm looking for, Jeff. Maybe not glue-ready, but definitely 120-grit ROS ready (while my samples are currently ready-to-be-planed-down-by-1/16"-ready).

I'll look into the Woodmaster, but I'm leaning towards the Woodslicer. I guess I'm not against an expensive blade like a Trimaster, but I just don't think I'd use it often enough to justify it.

[Van Huskey]

As others have said blade and feedrate. You might want to tension it up one blade size for a start. For an economical resaw blade the Woddslicer just can't be beat. Though some will say otherwise I would not want a carbide/stellite blade on 14" wheels. I know it may sound a little nuts but when I was learning to resaw I put a stick on tape measure on top of my resaw fence then in my head started a beat like a slow metronome as I fed the piece I tried to hit a 1/4" each beat, sounds nuts but worked for me.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I've also read good things/popular support for the Timber wolf line. Thoughts?

[Jeff Willard]

I can glue veneer down to the substrate directly off of the saw with no additional preparation.

You have a saw that can take advantage of this blades capabilities. A 2 TPI Woodmaster would be in the $110 range. If you just wouldn't use it, I understand that. But if you intend to do any amount of resawing, I think a carbide blade is a wise investment. How many Woodslicer's would you get for that? And how long would they last?

[Dan Friedrichs]

How many Woodslicer's would you get for that? And how long would they last?

I think the Woodslicers are pretty cheap - around $30-40. Maybe I'll try one of them, then upgrade to one of the carbide blades (Woodmaster) if I find I'm dulling it too quickly.

Although those veneers you posted are awfully smooth - those are from a 2 TPI blade?

[Peter Quinn]

It looks to me like the results you are getting are pretty close to what I would expect from almost any traditional steel blade. Maybe a little room for improvement, but not much. There is simply too much set to expect a glue ready cut with a standard blade. Even a timberwolf (what I like to use on my 14" PM) won't take you much farther.

I haven't bought a carbide blade because I don't want to invest that much in blades for the 14" as I hope to someday get a bigger saw in the shop, but considering the expected life of a carbide blade, it may actually be cheaper per inch of veneer sliced than quality steel or bimetal blades. Imagine running HSS TS blades in this day and age? Hardly economical unless you can sharpen hem yourself, and you don't pay your self much per hour.

[Jeff Willard]

No, those are from a 3 tooth TriMaster, but the Woodmaster is only available in 1.3 and 2 tooth configurations.

Just wondering-is the Woodslicer the band that is made from coil stock that is intended for the meat industry? If so, I'm willing to bet that these are very similar.

http://www.spectrumsupply.com/foodbandsawblade.aspx

http://www.spectrumsupply.com/kerfmaster-2.aspx

[John Lanciani]

Perhaps others, with more resawing experience than I, know something that I don't know. As for me, I think it's unrealistic to expect a glue up ready cut on the BS.

When I cut veneer, it goes from the saw (MM20 with a 1" trimaster) to the vacuum bag with no stops in between. It is not at all unreasonable with the right setup. I know that people love timberwolf and woodslicers, but they're like using a $5 steel blade on a tablesaw compared to a carbide BS blade.

John

[Van Huskey]

When I cut veneer, it goes from the saw (MM20 with a 1" trimaster) to the vacuum bag with no stops in between. It is not at all unreasonable with the right setup. I know that people love timberwolf and woodslicers, but they're like using a $5 steel blade on a tablesaw compared to a carbide BS blade.

John


No question the carbide blades are MUCH better and are more economical in the long run. One will outlast about 40 steel blades when you consider they can be sharpened about 4 times. So for a little over $400 you get a blade that will be better and last as long as $1200 worth of Woodslicers BUT one has to cut a LOT of wood to see that cost return. For me it is worth it for others it will not be.

[glenn bradley]

I've also read good things/popular support for the Timber wolf line. Thoughts?

That's pretty much all I run since the first one I tried back on an old 12" C-man. They are economical and do a very nice job. Nothing like the shots from that Trimaster but, cutting 1/16" veneer is no problem.

You order by phone and they are very helpful recommending a blade for your purposes. For awhile they were doing a 'buy 3 get 1 free' deal but, you had to ask for it. Might still be there, I'd ask.

[Andrew Joiner]

No, those are from a 3 tooth TriMaster, but the Woodmaster is only available in 1.3 and 2 tooth configurations.

Just wondering-is the Woodslicer the band that is made from coil stock that is intended for the meat industry? If so, I'm willing to bet that these are very similar.

http://www.spectrumsupply.com/foodbandsawblade.aspx

http://www.spectrumsupply.com/kerfmaster-2.aspx

Yes. It must be the same blade. The Iturra Bladerunner is made from exactly the same stock as the Woodslicer,but sells for less money. The kerfmaster has the same specs as the Woodslicer and Bladerunner but costs even less.

I want to try the kerfmaster but I just got some $75 Resaw Kings. They cut a little smoother than a timberwolf but not as good as the TriMaster pics Jeff posted.
With the Resaw King I can go right to glue up.

[Van Huskey]

Yes. It must be the same blade. The Iturra Bladerunner is made from exactly the same stock as the Woodslicer,but sells for less money. The kerfmaster has the same specs as the Woodslicer and Bladerunner but costs even less.

I want to try the kerfmaster but I just got some $75 Resaw Kings. They cut a little smoother than a timberwolf but not as good as the TriMaster pics Jeff posted.
With the Resaw King I can go right to glue up.


Does the Kerfmaster come in 1/2"? If not I am not a fan of 3/4" blades on a modern cast 14" saw, I don't think they can properly tension 3/4". This is one of my reasons for not trusting Carbide/Stellite blades on a 14" cast saw.

[Stephen Edwards]

When I cut veneer, it goes from the saw (MM20 with a 1" trimaster) to the vacuum bag with no stops in between. It is not at all unreasonable with the right setup. I know that people love timberwolf and woodslicers, but they're like using a $5 steel blade on a tablesaw compared to a carbide BS blade. John

Thank you. I stand corrected.