Building kitchen counter

[Matt Schuman]

I'm currently building an edge grain laminated maple counter out of 4/4 strips. The counter is 3' w x 9' l and about 2" thick (in the rough). I think I've decided to build the entire top, then use my #7 Stanley to flatten and my #4 Stanley to smooth the top. I see this as good practice for using my bench planes (I'm a novice woodworker, let alone neanderthal). How sorry will I be that I didn't use some other method to flatten the top? Thanks, Creekers!

[Maurice Ungaro]

Seems to be no different than flattening a workbench top - just a REALLY big one! So, are you cutting all of the strips by hand too?

[Darnell Hagen]

Glue up your strips with the grain in the same direction, hone the iron, eat your Wheaties, good to go.

[Bob Easton]

I jump in with a bit more explanation because you say you are new this kind of fun.

Darnell's advice is extremely important. You want to have a laminated slab that is easy to plane, and as immune as possible from tearout.

If you are not yet adept at reading grain direction by just looking at your wood, then take a couple of test swipes at each piece. It shouldn't be hard to figure out the direction the wood planes the easiest. MARK that direction on the edge of the wood with an arrow. When you glue them together, make all the arrows point the same direction. This will save lots of planing grief later. There's nothing as annoying as finding that a pass down the slab makes smooth as silk surfaces for one board while digging divots in the neighboring board.

[Maurice Ungaro]

There's nothing as annoying as finding that a pass down the slab makes smooth as silk surfaces for one board while digging divots in the neighboring board.
And maple is want to do that!

[Bob Easton]

And maple is want to do that!

Other tips:
1. Hone the plane blades to be a bit rounded to avoid having extra sharp corners that will leave edge traces. Do this by taking a couple of extra honing passes with extra pressure on the corners of the blades.
2. If you do get tearout, the remedy is to back off on shaving depth, take finer cuts. Another remedy, especially if the maple's pattern is "interesting," is to go to a cabinet scraper for final work.

[Matt Schuman]

Thanks guys for the advice! I need to start making sure the grain all runs the same, good point. I noticed I have some boards that reverse, so I guess I'll be dealing with some "difficult" grain anyway I glue them up. More skill building!

[David Gendron]

If you can put the reversing grain boards together, it might be easier to work them!