Lacquer Pullover Solvent - Composition? U.S. Source?

[Chris Hudson42]

Just made a small Cherry Butler's table to be finished. I want it reversible, and at least somewhat resistant to alcohol.

Some of the cherry is definitely blush-prone, so sealed with a diluted shellac (dewaxed) washcoat. So far, so good. Now the Alcohol problem.

Looking at either the Deft Clear Wood Finish Gloss Laquer, or the Minwax Clear Brushing Laquer.. (Opinions?) Problem is, my past experience with laquer isn't good - brush marks or spray orangepeel.

Then I saw Sean Clarke's fascinating (to me anyway) FWW video on "Use Pullover for a Hand-Rubbed Laquer Finish' http://www.finewoodworking.com/subscription/skillsandtechniques/skillsandtechniquesarticle.aspx?id=5213 (http://www.finewoodworking.com/subscription/skillsandtechniques/skillsandtechniquesarticle.aspx?id=5213)

Problem is the Mylands Pullover Solvent is apparently not availabe here in US. And not being sold in US - no MSDS either. Can't find a clue as to what it contains. (Any UK readers have a can with any info on it?)

I found one reference on a UK woodworking forum that implied that pullover solvent is mainly 'n-Hexane' (Naptha?). That was it.

Can anyone help with info on Pullover Solvent composition? Or U.S. source?

How about you chemists out there? A lacquer 'pullover' concoction can only 'slightly' dissolve the laquer. (Nitrocellulose). The very top surface. Possibilities?: A 'carrier' that does not dissolve the lacquer at all, with a small percentage - of say - something that does? MEK? (Naptha + MEK? Mineral sprits + MEK?) What ratios? 90% ms/naptha/10% MEK? 80%? or?
Other ideas to try?

Thanks for your help!
Chris

[Tony Bilello]

"Just made a small Cherry Butler's table to be finished. I want it reversible, and at least somewhat resistant to alcohol.

Some of the cherry is definitely blush-prone, so sealed with a diluted shellac (dewaxed) washcoat. So far, so good. Now the Alcohol problem".

I have no idea by what you mean "reversible" and cherry being "Blush prone".
As far as I know all lacquers are alcohol resistant.
As for the "pullover", the link is not good if you are not a member and the Mylands website did not have any "pullover solvent". They did make a comment that their nitro was good for pulling over. I have no idea what that means.
Sorry I couldnt be of any help. Maybe you could give us some more info.

[Chris Hudson42]

Thanks Tony,

Sorry for the word confusion - by 'blush prone' I mean it 'splotches' when wiped with alcohol/mineral spirits - due to grain variation and thus different absorption rate from wood around it.

'Pullover Solvent' is only mentioned on the UK site:
http://www.mylands.co.uk/products/wood_coatings/thinners_solvents/
Not the U.S. site

By 'Reversible' I meant a non-polymerizing finish that dries by solvent evaporation only - i.e. shellac, lacquer. This excludes varnishes, Danish Oils, Wipe on Poly, etc. Thus it can be repaired easily without stripping, simply by recoating because the recoat dissolves right into the original finish.

'Pullover' appears to perhaps be a UK term that refers to a lacquer 'reflow' technique. The 'pullover solvent' is put on a dried lacquer project (like a tabletop) with a pad in figure eight, circular, and finally straight strokes with the grain. The brush-marked/orange peeled lacquer surface is slightly dissolved and becomes glassy smooth - like a French Polish with Shellac - but with much less apparent effort and far better protection.

Hope this clears things up a bit.

P.S. - if you want to view the FWW video, I am pretty sure you can get a 'free 14-day trial' that lets you do so - and without any credit card.

[Scott Holmes]

I too am a bit confused...

Blush is moisture IN the lacquesr finish. Do you mean blotchy?

Pull over is not a term I know when it comes to lacquer.

What do you want to do?

[Tony Bilello]

Thanks Tony,

Sorry for the word confusion - by 'blush prone' I mean it 'splotches' when wiped with alcohol/mineral spirits......The term "blush" usually refers to a foggy looking finish in lacquer and urethanes caused by moisture in the air from high humidity being absorbed and trapped into the finish, therefore in common usage we could refer to urethanes and lacquers as being blush prone. Tony B

'Pullover Solvent' is only mentioned on the UK site: Not the U.S. site

By 'Reversible' I meant a non-polymerizing finish that dries by solvent evaporation only - i.e. shellac, lacquer. I have never heard of the term "reversible" and I'm many others have not heard of it either. Most people usually refer to such a feature as easily repairable or easily recoated. Easily reversible makes me think along the lines of easily stripped with no residue. Tony B

'Pullover' appears to perhaps be a UK term that refers to a lacquer 'reflow' technique. The 'pullover solvent' is put on a dried lacquer project (like a tabletop) with a pad in figure eight, circular, and finally straight strokes with the grain. The brush-marked/orange peeled lacquer surface is slightly dissolved and becomes glassy smooth - like a French Polish with Shellac - but with much less apparent effort and far better protection.
In furniture repair and refinishing we use a product called 'padding lacquer', I wonder if it is the same thing. I would only use it for small spot repairs. Lacquer is easy to sand and recoat and that is what I would do on a large surface like a table top. Seems like on a table top it would be easier to recoat than repair unless it is a small spot. Tony B

Hope this clears things up a bit.
Yup, it sure did. Thanks. Tony B


I looked at that website and couldnt find a product specifically named "pullover solvent".
Anyway, different cultures even within the US use different expressions. Not easy to sort through. It would be much safer to stick with the common usage for the term and avoid yourself confusion in the future.
Thanks for the input.

Tony B

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Chris,
I just looked at the FWW video. I can't tell you what they are using since there is no reference to "pullover" as a solvent in the US. However, I did note they were using nitrocellulose lacquer. Most plain old nitrocellulose is not water proof. You will solve the alcohol problem while making another. Other than Sherwin Williams "Moisture Proof Lacquer" only catalyzed finishes are really water proof as lacquers go. Those will not redissolve with a thinner since they cure chemically.
Why not try a water proof varnish with a really good natural fiber brush. I don't know what brand to suggest but Scott Holmes may. He sounds well versed with brush spread finishes.
Based on Tony's other posts, he is a spray guy. If you are not happy brushing, find a good finisher in your neighborhood and let him spray a pre cat or post cat for you. They are both modern finishes with a lot of build but both very waterproof. If you do a good job of surface prep, the cost should not be great.
fmr

[Scott Holmes]

For a butler's table I would want a very hard varnish.

No finish is completely waterproof nor can they stop water vapor. (RH type)

The best (non Conv. aka brushing) varnishes for preventing water and vapor are varnishes made from tung oil (it's only real claim to fame) and phenolic resins.

Waterlox Original is the most readily available. I would completely avoid any (OTC) brushable water-borne finishes.