Robust knock off....

[Fred Perreault]

I have been wanting to upgrade my tool rest, and have been tweaked by the reviews of the Robust tool rests. Some Creeksters have made their own, so I took up the project today. I inquired of a couple Creeksters what the arc measurement was for the full size rests. I have access to lots and lots of 3" and 4" heavy guage galvanized pipe. They took down the backstop at our ballfield, where the Orleans entry in the Cape League plays summer baseball. Having been the GM and housing players for 30 years, I got first dibs on the stock. I divided the 4" into 5 sections... 2.51" each, and made a bracket/clamp to hold it in my vise. I then sliced down with a sawzall and good blade, and made two sections 30" long. I then beveled them in a cutoff saw, cut and shaped the 1' post (an old axle) and welded them together. After shaping a trough for the 3/8" drill rod cap with a round file, I epoxied the pieces together with JB Weld. I have never used JB before. We'll see. The JB wanted to sag a wee bit, so I finished up with the tool rest upside down so the sag would fill against the drill rod cap. I will let the epoxy set overnight and paint the unit tomorrow. I only did one to see how it goes, but I have a 12", 9" and 6" rest. I also ground and sanded the galvanizing off for painting. I'll post a finished pic later.

[Doug W Swanson]

Looks nice. I'm going to make my own, too. I just have to find the time....

One question: if you welded the post to the support, how come you didn't weld the top round bar to the support? Then you wouldn't have to worry about the JB Weld holding up...

Doug

[Bernie Weishapl]

Fred those look really nice. I think the JB Weld will do just fine. Mine had a spot weld on each end of the bar but was still glued down the length. You are going to like that rest.

[Fred Perreault]

I chose to not arc weld the drill rod to the top because I didn't want to chance that the welding would warp or otherwise distort the top rail. The whole idea is for the drill rod to provide a smooth, wear resistent cap for the tools to ride on. Others have claimed great success with JB Weld, so I gave it a try. I expect similar success.
Fred

[John Keeton]

Fred, I will take a 4, 6 and 12 with 5/8" posts!!!:D I will, of course, pay the shipping.;)

Nice work, and good move on not welding the rod. I am impressed with your ability to saw such a straight line with a Sawzall!!:eek:

[Doug W Swanson]

I chose to not arc weld the drill rod to the top because I didn't want to chance that the welding would warp or otherwise distort the top rail. The whole idea is for the drill rod to provide a smooth, wear resistent cap for the tools to ride on. Others have claimed great success with JB Weld, so I gave it a try. I expect similar success.
Fred


I bet most people use JB weld because they don't have a welder. I know others have had success with JB Weld but since I have a welder, I'll be using it to make mine. Then I don't have to worry about it.....

Doug

[Bill Bolen]

Excellent project, well executed and a great photo essay to boot...Bill...

[Jeff Nicol]

Fred, I have seen lots of guys add the drill rod to the tops of thier rests, the thing is it most likely is not hardened from the supplier. The O-1 drill rod I buy is not hardened and will dent just about as easy as the original tool rest. It is most likely harder than the cast iron and the small round profile will be better, but it should be heat treated before it is put on the rest. I say this as I have not seen anyone say that they hardened it prior to applying it. I have been planning the same thing but have not had the time to make a little furnace to heat up longer chunks of the drill rod, soon though.

Nice ob though on the rests.

Jeff

[Ryan Baker]

For the lengths of rod needed for tool rests (i.e. don't try to work with the whole rod), the easiest way to temper them is in a regular oven. The hardening can be done with a MAPP torch, or better yet acetelyene if you have it.