Second wire edge

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

I learned to prepare a card scraper like the rest of you probably did, written articles and a couple videos. Though I have no actual frame of reference having never seen a scraper sharpened by a master, my scrapers form curls, not "David Marks" kind of curls, but not saw dust.
The four edges last probably 30 or so passes each then become less effective and the edge is ready to renew. Here's the problem. My technique to refresh the wire edge is obviously not good. The second wire edge never approaches the quality or effectiveness of the original.
None of the articles I've read demonstrate how to renew the wire but merely mention the fact that the edge should be renewable several times before the scraper will require filing, stoning and squaring the scraper.
When the scraper stops making curls I lay it flat on my bench. lubricate the card and the burnisher and redraw the edge from the flat side toward the edge with the burnisher slightly angled toward the bench. A couple firm passes moves the wire to the edge. Then I hold the scraper in my hand with the edge up and holding the burnisher exactly as I did when I originally set the wire edge. I tip the burnisher about 5 degrees or so while holding it angled toward the flat side and take a few firm strokes while allowing the burnisher to move forward and to the right simultaneously. The results are disappointing. The burnishing technique that worked immediately after the edges were squared and polished does not work to renew.
Who can help me fix my technique? Thanks in advance.
fmr

[Ray Pine]

Faust,
Try clamping the scraper in your vise nad burnish using two hands. The second turning of a scraper's edge always is the best one for me. Seems to be more metal pushed over, resulting in a stronger, longer lasting edge.
Ray

[jerry nazard]

Who dat? Might that be Ray Pine from the great commonwealth of Virginia? Welcome to the Creek.

-Jerry

[Jim Koepke]

I have not delved much into the use of a scraper yet. But can not help but wonder if it is like a plane blade that gets better results by sharpening before it gets real dull. Will a scraper burr be easier to form if it is refreshed before it gets dull beyond being useable?

jim

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Good question Jim. I'm not expert either. In fact, I'm finally getting to the point where I can get curls most of the time, at least with the first sharpening. I'll try Ray's suggestion. Perhaps I need to put a bit more oomph into the burnisher. I did get a little better results late today but there is lots of room for improvement. I'll attach a couple pix of the table top. You can see the difference between the scraped portion and the small amount left to scrape. Actually, I finished scrape this afternoon. Tomorrow I will turn it over and do the underside which will serve as a full size test of the finishing. I know the sanded surface showed too many scratch marks to suit me and muddled the stain on the test pieces. The large sample I scraped then stained looked much clearer. I'll squirt some lacquer on the tent pieces tomorrow. The temperature will be warmer and I won't have to add so much heat to the make up air.

[Jim Koepke]

That is a nice rope edge, did you carve that?

jim

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Jim,
That's how I spent my winter. The table is 10' X 50". I carved enough rope to hang myself. That's not the only carving on the table. The apron is carved eternity flowers. You know, sort of figure eights with a pistil in the center of each. Though it is a two pedestal table, carvings there also, right now the top is mounted on a fixture I built that allows me to move it around in the shop and tilt it one side to the other or any angle in between. I also built a gadget that helps me turn it completely over and remount it bottom side up on the fixture. Unfortunately, I will have to spray it in horizontal position. It is just too large to fit in my spray area any other way.
I'll post a pic or two as I do the finish. It will get a dark reddish brown stain with black glazing in the rope and apron carvings.
fmr

[Frederick Rowe]

I carved enough rope to hang myself.Man, that's discipline. It looks beautiful.

[Jim Koepke]

Jim,
That's how I spent my winter. The table is 10' X 50". I carved enough rope to hang myself. That's not the only carving on the table. The apron is carved eternity flowers. You know, sort of figure eights with a pistil in the center of each. Though it is a two pedestal table, carvings there also, right now the top is mounted on a fixture I built that allows me to move it around in the shop and tilt it one side to the other or any angle in between. I also built a gadget that helps me turn it completely over and remount it bottom side up on the fixture. Unfortunately, I will have to spray it in horizontal position. It is just too large to fit in my spray area any other way.
I'll post a pic or two as I do the finish. It will get a dark reddish brown stain with black glazing in the rope and apron carvings.
fmr

Faust,

That is beautiful work.
Don't be shy, post a lot of pictures. We can all use the inspiration. I am sure we would all like to see as much detail as you are willing to share.

jim

[Ray Pine]

Hi Jerry,
Dat's me. Just looking around.
Jim K,
As with everything else woodworking there will be different "right" ways of resharpening a card scraper.
1- file at 90 degrees to the face=4 turnable edges
2- file at 45 degrees= only two edges, but much more durable, as a larger burr is turned
3- turn the edge using one handed burnishing, with the scraper (held by the other hand,) overhanging the bench edge, (or held freehand, as the OP apparently does).
This yields a small, fragile, but very smooth cutting edge.
4- turn the edge with firm pressure, burnisher held two-handed, scraper clamped upright in the bench vise. This yields a larger, stronger burr, but somewhat less smooth cutting, albeit more aggressive.
5-turn the edge directly from the file,
6- stone the edge and face after filing, before turning the edge
7- turn the edge repeatedly- the edge will be stronger as more metal is moved- until you cannot raise a burr on the lump you've pushed over; then re-file
8- file/stone before every edge turning, to maintain a refined edge.
9- lubricate the burnisher with _______brand oil, to prevent galling the edge.
10- no lube necessary, it will contaminate the work.
11-no burr needed, it just adds a step before you start scraping.
12-Advocates of each of these techniques have assured me that their way is the best; any variations from doctrine are apostasy;-)
Ray

[Tony Shea]

I shall be keeping an eye on this post as I am just now wanting to get into card scraping. I used a friends card and was amazed at how easy and the results that was abtained from using on raw wood and glue lines. But he lives on the other side of the state as I cannot just pop by and have him show me how to burnish my edge. I just recieved my card scrapers in the mail but my damn burnisher is on backorder.

[jerry nazard]

Hi Jerry,
Dat's me. Just looking around.

Ray

Well, it certainly is nice to see you here! Ray, this is a great forum and super bunch of people. When the "troll problem" next door got so bad a few years ago, I started hanging out here at SMC. While my interests are woodworking in general, I am focusing a lot on hand tools (and restoration), and I get plenty of information here.

I hope that you stick around and share from that ENORMOUS fountain of knowledge that you possess.

Best!

-Jerry

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Ray,
That's more methods than I knew existed. I'll spend a rainy day (even if the sun is shining) experimenting with all of them. It seems you can sharpen differently to suit the task at hand, fine edge for finishing prior to stain or top coat and course for rough surfacing. Thanks for taking the time to write them all down. Most of my hand tool work involves carving chisels. I will add the card scraper to my list of most needed skills to master.
fmr

[Dan O'Sullivan]

Hey Ray
Welcome from danmart77. I love scrapers and I keep one in my back pocket all the time. I know its almost a sin to say it but.. I don't even hone my rough scraper. I keep a serrated edge turned for all my rough work. I just file it flat with a mill file, burnish the edge and get it. I have found the "toothed scraper" technique to be a great tool for initial work on burl veneers and crotch woods. Its quick and dirty and very easy to go behind it with the "pretty scraper in my other pocket" to finish it out.

Got to keep movin' to beat the clock.

dan

[Ray Pine]

Hi Dan,
Another familiar (type)face.
I ort to keep my scraper in my back pocket, they just plain disappear when left on the saw table, shaper top, or drillpress table. Spend half my time looking for the things some days.
Yeh, the method of sharpening can be suited to the task at hand. I tried scrapig a shellac finish one time, with a dainty honed and gently burnished edge, a la an article I saw once, but found it too hard on my nerves. Not good at holding back, I guess.
Best,
Ray