Need advice for finishing maple trim

[chris steele]

I found this forum while doing some internet research on ways to stain maple.
We're building a new house, and my wife just had to have maple cabinets. You know how this goes.
The interior doors are hollow core birch, and we're currently installing maple baseboards and trim. I'm building the house with the help of an old friend that is a professional homebuilder.
I'm familiar with the problems staining maple. I've read on here that it is often best handled with dyes, etc. This will obviously be a big job, and something I would much rather begin with a stain, seal, finish routine. I've tested a few stains, and have found a couple that stain pretty well without the splotching, although they are not quite as dark as I had been shooting for.
My big questions are:
Any recommendations on stains that go on well, without resorting to a dye first?
Would it be better to put on with my Titan airless, or an air compressor setup? The airless is great to use, but the cleanup wears me out.
Other tips for a big project like this? I've been telling my carpenter/partner I'd like to hire it out, but he keeps telling me he thinks I could do it, and save alot of money. I am on a tight budget.

Thanks for any help.

[Jim Summers]

I made a dresser once out of maple and tried to use stain. It was a royal pain and did not ever turn out the way we wanted it. I could control the splotching easy 'enuff but could never get the darkness.

Since then, the maple stuff I have made has all been colored with dye. Much better results. I used basically the same process as staining. Dye, seal, finish. The finish I like to use is water based so I did not want to risk any problems.

Might want to re-post in the Finishing forum for more hits. Good info also at Homestead finishing website.

HTH

[chris steele]

Thanks for the direction, the more I read, the more it looks like dyes may be needed. Very new to me, guess you have to order them as I've never seen them anywhere. Will be some trial and error learning.

[johnny means]

Use a dye stain to even out the color. I like to dilute my dye stain really thin to give me more control over coverage. The dye stain will give you a really dull, but even tone. Then apply a wiping stain to achieve your finished tone. This will pop your grain and add depth. Be sure to wipe it all off or it may never dry. I like oil stains, but they do require quite some time before topcoating.

[Scott Holmes]

Transtint dye...
Mix it in denatured alcohol (DNA) and spray it on to get a nice even color. If it's not dark enough; add another coat and/or darken your dye. Dyes don't hide the grain nor do they seal the wood, that's why adding another coat will darken it. No wiping needed. so

Pratice on scrap pieces of trim and the inside of closet doors if you dont have any scrap.

Top coat as you wish... FYI poly is for floors!

[chris steele]

Wanted to let you all know I appreciate this advice. The more I read up, the more I thought the Transtint might be the way to go. Luckily I will have plenty of areas (closets, scrap, etc) to practice, so maybe I can make out alright.

What do you think about the application method? Stick with the airless or invest in some type of HVLP system? (I already have a compressor) That's something I've never used, and I'm sure you get what you pay for. Would one of these big box store Campbell Hausfield jobs leave you embarrassed with the results?

[Scott Holmes]

I don't have an HVLP. I use an Air Assisted Airless (AA airless) The gun alone is ~$900.

HVLP are great for a soft spray - AA airless have about the same transfer eff., soft spray AND they apply the finish at production speeds (airless) HVLP much are slower.

You can use either the conventional gun, a conversion gun, or if you need (want) a new tool get the HVLP.

Practice, practice, practice...