Bandsaw - The Least Used Tool in My Shop, How's it For You?

[Mike Shields]

Couple years back I got a really good deal on a new 18" Jet bs. About the most I've ever used it for was cutting scraps to make smaller scraps.

I never could get the saw to cut nice enough. I'm hesitant to resaw any of my nicer stock, for that reason.

Can any of you post some resaw cutting results to inspire me to spend
the time (and possibly money) to finally put this tool to good use?

I'd attach some pics, but who wants to see scraps!

Mike

[James Phillips]

Get some good blades and take your time. Also do not expect a finished cut from a band saw. In my shop it does not get used that much but when I need it, it is irreplaceable.

[Jeff Willard]

Here's some sipo that I recently sliced. 10" wide, 50" long, 1/8" thick. I also have some 1/16" thick from the same board. I've also attached a photo of a piece of ash that I split, to show the surface detail. Saw is a Laguna LT14 SUV with a Lenox TriMaster, 3 TPI band, Driftmaster fence.

I remember there being an issue with the older Jets. IIRC, something about column flex. I'm sure someone with more knowledge about it will chime in soon.

[Wally Alexander]

I have a 14" Delta with the riser block. I use it quite a bit. Right out of the box I was able to resaw quite well with the stock blade. I've since changed to Timberwolf blades. I also use it alot for cutting out patterns, at least ones with a curve. When ever possible I make a pattern of a project I'm working on so when I decide to make another one it will be an exact duplicate. The only complaint I have is blades seem to get dull quicker than I think they should, but that may be subjective. Wally

[Greg Cole]

Bandsaws need to be set up properly to get good results, not saying yours isn't. Buy one of the Bandsaw books from Duginski, read it & then take it to the shop with you if you haven't already.
Also get a good blade & use it ONLY for resawing. If you use a resaw blade for cutting curves you are basically ruining the resaw blade.

[Wayne Jolly]

I was like you for a long time. Bought a 14" Sears professional bandsaw (got it new in box for $150 so I just HAD to buy it) but never used it for much because I just couldn't get it to cut worth a hoot. But I kept finding more and more uses for it so I decided it was time to do some reading and tuning. I tracked down the real manufacturer and bought a riser kit, just recently added some ball bearing guides, did a general tune up (or two or three), and now I use it quite often. And like it.

So I agree with those that say to read, tune, and use. You just might become a convert too.

xeddog

[Van Huskey]

So I agree with those that say to read, tune, and use. You just might become a convert too.

xeddog


Truer words...

Most machines in the shop need to be setup, much of that comes down to cold hard dial indicators and some time, a bandsaw needs to be tuned like an instrument and frankly there are no good tools to setup tension on a woodworking saw it is mostly feel with some deference to the scale on the saw. Get Duginske's bandsaw book, get a good blade set the saw up as best you can (with the book as a guide) then practice. The bandsaw is a lot like the router once your eyes are opened the versatility is amazing.

[Jerome Hanby]

My band saw use is feast or famine. When I need it, it gets used a bunch then go untouched for the next 6 months. I've purchased an old Rockwell 14" saw and a riser kit. Will get a few goodies from the Iturra catalog and a bigger motor one of these days and try to turn it into something really useful.

[Paul Atkins]

Except for my lathes, my bandsaw is my most used tool. A 20" PM that has a 2 speed box and variable speed to cut 12" veneer or 3/4" steel plate. Wish I had it 10 years earlier. I use 1/4" to 3/4" blades depending on what I'm cutting.

[Jason White]

Like you, I use it mostly for cutting scraps into smaller pieces so that they will fit in the trash can. I used to do this on the miter saw, but it's not very safe if your lumber is crooked.

I'm also starting to use a lot more rough lumber, so I use it for resawing and rough sizing boards that haven't yet been straightened out on the jointer and planer. The kickback risk when cutting warped boards on a bandsaw, if any, is minimal.

Now if I could just figure out how to improve the dust collection!! :rolleyes:

Jason


Couple years back I got a really good deal on a new 18" Jet bs. About the most I've ever used it for was cutting scraps to make smaller scraps.

I never could get the saw to cut nice enough. I'm hesitant to resaw any of my nicer stock, for that reason.

Can any of you post some resaw cutting results to inspire me to spend
the time (and possibly money) to finally put this tool to good use?

I'd attach some pics, but who wants to see scraps!

Mike

[Myk Rian]

Bandsaw blades have drift. To adjust for it, take a piece of scrap 4-6" wide and draw a line down an edge. Resaw down that line. You may find that you have to angle the stock into the blade for it to cut down the line. That is the drift angle. Adjust your fence for that angle.
Use the flutter method to adjust tension.

[Jason White]

What's the flutter method? Never heard of that one.

I just give the blade a wiggle with my thumb and index finger. When I've got about 1/8" or so of play in it, and it "feels" right, I'm happy. No fuss, no muss.

Guess that makes me the "bandsaw blade whisperer." :)

Jason


Bandsaw blades have drift. To adjust for it, take a piece of scrap 4-6" wide and draw a line down an edge. Resaw down that line. You may find that you have to angle the stock into the blade for it to cut down the line. That is the drift angle. Adjust your fence for that angle.
Use the flutter method to adjust tension.

[Robert Reece]

I have a Jet 18" bandsaw too. It's an older model, not the triangle column type. I wasn't too happy with mine so I put some time into it. I put a new blade on it (a Woodmaster CT), I tuned it up, etc. and it still is not that great. It's impossible to get the two wheels in a plane because the top wheel changes plane as you tighten the blade. The blade tracking is not very good. It's underpowered. It vibrates a lot. The column has measurable flex in it. And so on.

In the end, I can resaw, but not that quickly and the finish surface needs to be run through the planer for sure. It's not even sandable quality.

However, I am really starting to like the bandsaw. I do a lot of ripping on it which is much safer than on the tablesaw (at least it feels that way to me).

So while I like the theory of the bandsaw, I don't currently have a good implementation of a bandsaw. It will probably be the next tool to be upgraded.

[Mike Shields]

I have a Jet 18" bandsaw too. It's an older model, not the triangle column type. I wasn't too happy with mine so I put some time into it. I put a new blade on it (a Woodmaster CT), I tuned it up, etc. and it still is not that great. It's impossible to get the two wheels in a plane because the top wheel changes plane as you tighten the blade. The blade tracking is not very good. It's underpowered. It vibrates a lot. The column has measurable flex in it. And so on.


Rat fooey...

...if we got the same model.

Please don't tell me, I don't want to know!

Interested parties, you may see a mildy used 18" Jet in the classified!!

Mike

[Charles Krieger]

I have a Jet 14” bandsaw with a riser block. I recently added a Kreg fence and Carter guides. Now that I have the saw tuned up I find I use it much more often. The least used tool in my shop is a DeWalt job site table saw. My most used is the Powermatic 2000 table saw.:D

[Myk Rian]

Back off all your guides away from the blade, turn on the saw and loosen the blade slowly until it begins to flutter. Tighten 1/4 turn at a time until it stabilizes. Mark the position on the tension gauge.

[Walt Nicholson]

I have the same 18" Jet, about 5-6 years old. When I first got it I was really dissapointed, almost had to lean on the wood to get it cut, vibration, etc. On the advice of a friend I tossed the original blade, bought a high quality blade, and went back through the manual set-up instructions very slowly, step by step. I have been extremely happy ever since. I am now using it more and more and doing things I used to do on the table saw. I'm sure it won't match the high end units out there but for the price does a good job for the money.

[Matt Armstrong]

I used to use my table saw for everything... rough cuts, finish cuts, cross cuts, rip cuts, etc etc etc.

And... I still love my table saw. It does all those things. But a majority of them can be done in a more predictable, quieter, faster method with the bandsaw. And that's why I love it. It's just knowing when to use each.

[mark kosse]

Wow, The most used in my shop. Try it some more.

[glenn bradley]

I am trying to remember the last piece I made where I did not resaw my material . . . its been years. It is unfortunate that you didn't pursue this with Jet when the saw was new and I will hope that this is just a matter of tuning and not a defect.

My 17" saw with the stock wheels, tires, guides and a 3/4" Timberwolf 2-3 blade works great. The smaller saw I use for curvy stuff does pretty good too after some TLC. On the larger saw I have never had to deal with compensating for drift, I can cut 1/16" off with reasonable confidence, etc. I say; take some time, get it tuned and start enjoying it.

[Stephen Edwards]

I have 2 BS in my shop, one for resawing and one for curved work. I would miss having either one of them, especially the G0555X with riser block for resawing. The other one is a G0555 without riserblock. The X version was purchased new and the non X version was bought for a song on CL.

Blade drift has never been a problem with either of the BS that I have. There are numerous threads here on SMC with solutions for eliminating blade drift.

As others have said, a good blade and a proper tuning is essential for good performance.

[Mike Zilis]

I've had my Jet 14" DXPR for about a year now. I have struggled with getting it to perform as I'd like, but I firmly believe it's my lack of skill/experience and not any fault of the tool. I've recently picked up Doug Duginske's bandsaw book and will be hoping to figure out where I'm going wrong.

So to answer the question - the bandsaw is not the most used tool in my shop by a long shot, but if I need to cut a curve and it don't got to be pretty - I fire it up. :-)

[John Powers]

Just put the WoodSlicer blade on and I love my 1986 14" Delta more than ever. If I couldn't use it I'd put a large drill bit in my drill press, put my head on the table and.....well OK but I really like that bandsaw.

[Cody Colston]

Unless doing primarily casework, I don't know how one gets by without a bandsaw. I use mine almost every day that I am in the shop.

There are few pieces I build that don't have curves somewhere and the bandsaw is the perfect tool for cutting curves. Too, I cut out a lot of bowl blanks, re-saw panels and veneer, cut out ogee bracket feet, cabriole legs...lots and lots of applications for the bandsaw.

I also agree with the poster that said Timberwolf blades get dull quicker than expected. That's been my experience, too, and I'm going to try bimetal blades to see if they retain their sharpness longer.

I recently ordered a Woodslicer from Highland to try out for re-sawing.

[Curt Harms]

I find myself using a table saw less. I certainly wouldn't eliminate the table saw, but a band saw seems less "violent". Yes it'll still cut a finger off but the stupidity factor seems like it would need to be higher due to no kickback potential. Cutting motion on the TS is rotary, cutting motion on the BS is linear. Just for grins I jointed a 4' piece of poplar, put the jointed edge against the factory fence and ripped it then checked several places along the length with a digital caliper. The width was with .02". I doubt my saw would tension a carbide blade so I joint everything I rip on the bandsaw. I remove 1/32" or so. I abide by the rule to not use the same blade for straight line ripping and curved cutting.

[Dino Drosas]

One of the most used in the shop. Take everyones advice and get it set up properly and then get some good blades. I use Lenox TriMaster carbide tipped blades - a 1" for resaw and ripping and a 1/2" for general purpose cutting. The finish of the cut will totally amaze you
PS, I have a sliding table saw and still use the band saw for much of the ripping.

[Paul Murphy]

I would invest the time in proper setup. I agree they should come already tweaked, but often that is not the case. Read the articles that have been written, and/or buy a book. I came across the FWW articles by John White, and they are supurb. Also, places like Iturra Design sell shims to adjust for coplanar, blade tension springs, tires, blades, fences. Get their catalog, it is a wealth of information. I use blades from Iturra that are similar to the Woodslicer from Highland Hardware, but Iturra prices are lower.

John White also has an article in FWW on resawing and how to build your own resaw fence. It works beautifully, so I highly recommend building a fence based on his design.

I love being able to resaw veneer, and bookmatch thicker boards. If I think a board is going to move during a cut I use the bandsaw, and tap a wedge into the kerf...it is SO much safer than on my tablesaw! Curves, and rips on stock thicker than ~3" have to be cut on the bandsaw in my shop because I don't have any other saw that can do those cuts.


John White @ FWW has some great articles on bandsaw tuneup:
White, John on bandsaw tune-up 157 46-52
White, John on bandsaw tuneups 159 44-51
John also has a book out that I will someday buy:
Care and repair of shop machines: a complete guide to setup, troubleshooting ... By John White

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32225-1332

[Mike Shields]

I replaced the blade years ago with one that was highly recommended ATT.

If I'm not mistaken it came from Highland, and is 3/4" and 4 tpi.

I've been somewhat able to adjust for drift. The factory fence system (which is absolute junk IMO) could not be adjusted enough to compensate.

The problem I'm seeing is the blade does not cut a clean kerf. There seems to be slop side to side, on either side of the blade. It may be a 1/32 thick blade, but the kerf is 1/16 wide.

I've got all the bearing guides adjusted to within .003 from the blade.

I'll take some recommendations and see if I can make an improvement. Otherwise, this tool is just taking up space.

Thanks for all the replies.

Mike

[Nick Sorenson]

I've learned that a good blade helps a lot (like with any saw). I use Timberwolf blades (found them through here I believe). I've been pretty happy with the cut quality.

I have a Grizzly 18" bandsaw. I use it regularly.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I don't know how I ever got along without mine. I have a 16" Walker Turner with a 2 hp motor, and I use woodslicer blades on it. It cuts beautifully.