First router table - advice, comments, etc.

[Victor Robinson]

I've been trying to decide whether to buy a router table or just build one. I was initially surprised that router table tops + fences actually cost a fair bit more than I was expecting. I've since been able to find "cheaper" alternatives that might be good enough (e.g. from MLCS), but am wondering whether it's worth the savings to build my own with MDF/ply.

I typically favor getting the shop projects done efficiently so I can move on to the "real" woodworking, so I'm not likely to favor the BYO route unless it offers considerable cost savings or lets me incorporate features that are missing from commercial ones.

Could those of you who built your own comment on what you did and why you chose to BYO?

Or could you guys recommend commercial solutions that you like for one reason or another?

Funds are tight due to other tool acquisitions and I'd like to keep the router table/cabinet project under $200.

[Norman Pyles]

I built mine cause I'm cheap. Figure a sheet of 3/4 ply, and a little MDF for the top. Picked up some scrap laminate from a cabinet shop for almost nothing. The biggest cost for me was the insert plate.

[Van Huskey]

I am of the mind the best approach is to buy a lower end top at the start then learn what you want in a RT then either find one that meets your qualifications or build on. That said I don't know if they are still around but Woodcraft had a Freud 3 1/4hp router, table, fence and legs set for $399 for the last couple of months, it was hit and miss which stores had them and they had them online for a while. If you don't have a router this is a good set and the router is a beast.

[Victor Robinson]

I am of the mind the best approach is to buy a lower end top at the start then learn what you want in a RT then either find one that meets your qualifications or build on. That said I don't know if they are still around but Woodcraft had a Freud 3 1/4hp router, table, fence and legs set for $399 for the last couple of months, it was hit and miss which stores had them and they had them online for a while. If you don't have a router this is a good set and the router is a beast.

Pretty good deal but yeah I already have a router I'm happy with for now. Just workin' on the table. Of course, not having used a table before it's hard to know what I should be looking for. I agree with starting off simple but I'm also quick to outgrow things. This leads to frustration and wasted money. :)

[Charles Cannon]

Woodpeckers has a closeout table for $79 but you would need a plate. Those two items + shipping would put you close to your limit.
Cannon

[Van Huskey]

Pretty good deal but yeah I already have a router I'm happy with for now. Just workin' on the table. Of course, not having used a table before it's hard to know what I should be looking for. I agree with starting off simple but I'm also quick to outgrow things. This leads to frustration and wasted money. :)

The only issue is with a $200 budget it will be hard not to outgrow it quickly if that is your MO. What router do you have, this can help with suggestions. Hopefully you have a router that works well on a table without a lift.

[Victor Robinson]

The only issue is with a $200 budget it will be hard not to outgrow it quickly if that is your MO. What router do you have, this can help with suggestions. Hopefully you have a router that works well on a table without a lift.

I'm afraid this is going to be a negative. :(

I have the Hitachi kit. Fairly certain it doesn't support "above the table" adjustments".

[Victor Robinson]

Is the woodpeckers table on clearance considered decent? Any major shortcomings?

What about this one? I end up at $170 delivered for the top, fence, and plate...

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/tabletop.html

[Van Huskey]

Is the woodpeckers table on clearance considered decent? Any major shortcomings?

What about this one? I end up at $170 delivered for the top, fence, and plate...

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/tabletop.html


The the Hitachi KM12VC is a pain to use in a table, hard to seat some bits properly due to how far the collet is from the base.

Nothing wrong with the Woodpecker tabke, quite nice actually, the MLCS table is probably just as good, I like the WP fence better but it is more expensive. I would suggest getting the aluminum plate for long term BUT in your case I am willing to bet the Hitachi doesn't stay in the table long so I wouldn't spend extra money on a better plate.

[Tony Shea]

I'm in the same exact boat you're in and haven't been able to make a decision going on 6 months now. I'm a bit strapped financially but there is some much that I find I can't do without a router table. I drives me nuts. I'd like to just build my own I think but just can't seem to come up with a good way to make the top and make it really flat. I struggle with face laminating sheet goods together and getting them perfectly flat. Some suggestions on what to use for products as well as the technique of how to glue them together would be appreciated. The base is a non issue and I would build a cabinet to house everything including some dust collection. And for the fence I would think that some aluminum angle would be a good place to mount some faces to.

[Glen Butler]

1 sheet of 1 1/4" MDF will give you enough material for a nice large top. And two fences suited for different operations. And you will still have a half sheet left over to rebuild it when you find out what you like. All for around $60.

I like the 1 1/4" MDF because it is thick enough to dado tracks directly into rather than laminating pieces together. Same thing goes for dadoing t tracks to the fence to give you adjustable faces and places for featherboards. the 1 1/4 face of the MDF has a large enough cross section to hold the fence face square to the base and is tall enough on its own to run many operations with a simple flat piece of MDF.

[David Prince]

Search Sears.com for router table and see what they have. The prices seem reasonable for a modest table. You can always upgrade in the future if it is something you find that you use alot.

[Walter McGuire]

If you decide to build a table, I would make the following recommendations based on my personal experience:

* Use Kreg plate levelers...they make leveling and supporting your plate painless.

* Face laminate thinner peices of MDF...Preferably 2 pieces of 3/4. this will greatly add stability to the top, when compared to solid thickness 1 1/4 MDF. Getting the table flat is a matter of getting it close during glue-up and making adjustments when fastening the top. Also, you'll be left with extra 3/4 MDF, which is more handy for jigs and such than 1 1/4.

* Use a phenolic router plate...they are less $$ and create less noise. Aluminum is better at supporting a heavy router, but a little louder and more$$.

* Use thin phenolic laminate over the MDF...You can get it at Any large lumber yard.

* Install both a 3/4 x 3/8 miter slot and a t-track next to each other on the top.

* Edgeband the perimeter of the table with hardwood...it will add a lot of impact resistance to the MDF, which is known for feathering.

You should be able to do this for around 100 bucks...leaving room to buy a good after market fence. Also, you could make the table 4' long (not typical of commercial tops) which comes in handy for jointing boards...even if you think you'll never use it for this purpose.

[glenn bradley]

Funds are tight due to other tool acquisitions and I'd like to keep the router table/cabinet project under $200.

That will be an interesting challenge. Many table router motors run well over $200. That being said, I have made tables and bought them. I have found that by the time I get the top "ready" with the fence, plate opening, miter slot and all, buying is about a break even.

My latest top is a Rockler that I happened to see in the store on clearance. This was back when their tables, fences, plates and such were changing styles.

Someone on here has a Triton for sale for around $100 . . .. here it is. (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=133018)
My dad runs this router and it does quite well for its power rating.

As to what to look for, this of course varies with the person. I have had tables sag and so have learned to provide good support across the underside of the surface and not just around the edges. I wouldn't want to give up the miter slot but, some folks don't know why anyone would want one. A split fence with good dust collection is a gotta-have for me, others just clamp a straight piece of stock to the table and have at it.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I built one because I enjoy doing those kinds of projects. My first table top was just scrap, even down to routing out a recess for the router in it for a removable plate. Eventually, I got an insert plate, and then built a table around it.

Doc

[Ray Newman]

I would say decide on what size top you want or need & will it fit in the existing space? When I built my existing RT cabinet, I considered how much room it would take up and how big I really needed it to be vis-vis how mucxh shop space I could give up.

I bought a Woodpeck top when I made my last (and final??) RT because it is dead flat and heavy! Previously, I made a RT top from two pieces of 3/4” plyw’d and a 1/4” smooth tempered Masonite top, all joined by contact cement. You might even go to a few counter top fabricators and see what they ahve in the scrap/"oops--wrong laminate top" pile. OR look at the used furniture/bragian stores for an old table that has a laminated/formica top.

Do an internet search and look at the various designs out there. Nothing really difficult about designing and building a RT. Construction is basic and is way to improve building skills. MDF and some grades are plyw’d are relatively inexpensive, just make sure they are flat! You really don’t need cabinet grade-hardwood-veneer plyw’d. for a RT cabinet.

The best thing about building is that you make the height ,width and depth that fits you the best. Not one designed for the average Joe Week end Woodworker. From what I have observed, tool/cabinet height is often overlooked by woodworkers.

Made my top so it lifts up. Have found that it is a handy feature to have, even though I have a Woodpeck router lift. I think with a fixed base router, it is easier to lift up the top, secure it in place, then make any height adjustments at eye level instead of bending down. Just removes one more variable.

Install casters or place it on a mobile stand. Good casters/mobile stand makes it very easy to maneuver the RT around, which can get heavy when filled.

I also have 4 large and stout handles on the sides of the cabinet in case I never needed to lift it or need more a grip to move it.

Drawers are good to store bits and need not be fancy construction -- just robust enough. I keep my bits stored in the plastic cases for two reasons: can’t cut yourself fiddling to remove the bit, the plastic case protects the bit from chipping if dropped --been there; done that. :mad:

A fellow wood worker who was short on space made a fold down RT that was just a top securely hinged to a shop wall. He also had another top that he could clamp to his work bench. Of course DC was a problem.

You can make a simple plyw’d or MDF fence. I’d suggest coating it with paste wax or an easy-to-renew finish to keep it flat. For a while, my fence was a piece of 1X3” hardwood, jointed and waxed.

You could also make your own plate from a thick piece of polycarbonate. I made my 1st plate from scrap piece of thick polycarbonate from TAP Plastics in San Leandro.