Cutting Miters on a Profiled Edge - Avoiding Tearout

[Mike Shields]

I've got two Freud TS blades, and both cut perfect when performing crosscuts on profiled edges. Neither can cut clean when cutting the same profile at a mitered angle.

Anyone suggest a way to eliminate that tearout? Painters tape can minimize the tearout, but that's a lot of work, and is still not perfect.

Yes, I could cut the miter first, then do the profile, but I often don't have an exact length in mind when cutting stock (for later use).

The wood this time is hard maple.

Thanks,

Mike

[johnny means]

I always cut with the profile forward.

[Ray Newman]

I found the blue type "painters tape" too weak hold back splinters.

Instead, I apply a very tight strip if Scotch clear packing tape.

[glenn bradley]

I'm with Johnny.

[john bateman]

Try cutting the piece 1/16" long, then repeat the cut and trim off that extra 1/16".

Also try raising the blade a little higher. And if the trailing edge is tearing out the worst, try a piece of backer material between the stock and the miter gauge fence. (assuming crosscuts)

[Mike Shields]

I always cut with the profile forward.

Never tried that. The way my miter sled is setup will not allow me just to rotate the stock, and get the correct angle for a picture frame.

Thanks for that suggestion.

I'll be building a new or modifying the existing sled.

Mike

[johnny means]

Never tried that. The way my miter sled is setup will not allow me just to rotate the stock, and get the correct angle for a picture frame.

Thanks for that suggestion.

I'll be building a new or modifying the existing sled.

Mike

If what you're doing is frames, you should try a double sided miter sled that cuts opposite sides of the miter on opposite sides of the blade. If you set up both fences with a accurate square you don't even need perfect 45s to get 4 nice tight joints all the way around.

[Glen Butler]

If you are cutting prefinished picture frame stock you should look at a high ATB grind blade. The tenryu mel-pro for example. I get perfect edges on melamine with it you should be able to do the same in you application.

[Mike Shields]

If what you're doing is frames, you should try a double sided miter sled that cuts opposite sides of the miter on opposite sides of the blade. If you set up both fences with a accurate square you don't even need perfect 45s to get 4 nice tight joints all the way around.

Double sided on opposite sides?

Not enough caffiene to figure that one out.

I need pictures!!!

[Mike Shields]

If what you're doing is frames, you should try a double sided miter sled that cuts opposite sides of the miter on opposite sides of the blade. If you set up both fences with a accurate square you don't even need perfect 45s to get 4 nice tight joints all the way around.


Double sided on opposite sides?

Not enough caffiene to figure that one out.

I need pictures!!!

Anybody got pics of this contraption?

If it's the solution, I gotta have one. But what is it?

[Steve Rowe]

Why the problem? - both are crosscuts. The only difference is that there is a force vector during mitering that is parallel to the face of the miter gage. It sounds like a technique or setup problem to me. I suspect your stock may be moving across the miter gage fence during the cut. Try clamping the stock to the miter gage and then make the cut to see if that helps. Another option would be to put some fine PSA sandpaper on the face of your miter gage to prevent slippage.

[glenn bradley]

Why the problem? - both are crosscuts.

I imagine he is experiencing tearout on the unsupported side where the profile, due to its shape, is not fully supported at the exit point.

[john bateman]

Anybody got pics of this contraption?

If it's the solution, I gotta have one. But what is it?

I think he means one of these:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/GRUMPY1946/Projects/TS%20Mitre%20Jig/TableSawMitreJig-01-1.jpg