Front Vise Jaw Size

[Clint Barden]

Hello all,
First post here.... I've been lurking for a while. There is a wealth of knowledge on these forums!

I recently bought this vise and will begin construction of my traditional(ish) european(ish) bench soon.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21523

I really like the quick release feature and the price is not too bad. My question is... what would be the max suggested jaw size for this vise? I realize putting a large jaw on it will allow it to rack when clamping a small item, if the opposite side is not supported.

Basically I'm considering purchasing another one of these and use it in both the front and end vise position.

I would love to have a twin screw vise on the front, but I can't swing that much money right now. I'm thinking one of these in the front vise position plus some dog holes drilled into the side of the top to use for hold downs will accomplish the same thing (albiet not as well) for vertically clamping wide boards.

Any thoughts on the subject?


Edit: I forgot to mention... the whole bench will be made of poplar as I have access to big pile of it for free. The only exception is the vise jaws I might use a harder wood.

[Chris Friesen]

I'd probably leave maybe 6" on the outside of the bars. You can always insert a spacer on the other side if it racks too much.

Your plan to put one on the end should be fine. You might consider putting an extra-thick wooden jaw on it with two dog holes in it, at half the spacing of the holes in the bench. That way you limit the unsupported area under the stock.

Vertically clamping wide boards can be done with a clamp across the bench. A hold-down in the edge might be a bit awkward--the Veritas surface clamp is designed for this but fairly pricey.

Poplar will be fine, but might be a bit light for hand planing. Make it all extra beefy, and if it scoots across the floor add a shelf and stack stuff on it for more weight.

[harry strasil]

First, Welcome to the Haven Clint. Racking is easy to handle, just cut some 1 inch wide strips of 1/4 inch material about 3 or 4 inches long and drill 1/4 inch holes near one end and slide them on a dowel along with one 1/8 inch strip at the end and just use how ever many you need as a spacer and let them hang down on one end of the vise jaw with the others lying on the bench 90° off, it works rather well.

[Clint Barden]

Thanks for the replies guys. I will most likely get another of the same vises. I just need to finalize the design so I can get started!!

[Clint Barden]

So this is getting off topic from my original question.... but the poplar I am using is air dried only.... will I be okay if I don't use end caps?

I would love to use them, but the design features are spiraling out of control from the very simple bench I first sketched up.

[Bruce Campbell]

So this is getting off topic from my original question.... but the poplar I am using is air dried only.... will I be okay if I don't use end caps?

I would love to use them, but the design features are spiraling out of control from the very simple bench I first sketched up.


Ultimately your bench and such of course but word of caution from myself who is currently caught in a full fledged case of analysis paralysis on what features, what wood, details etc... just get it done. It will work, it will not be perfect, you will make another, probably better, one later on. I'm not sure if I was saying that to myself or you. Maybe both. Get it done.

As for the air dried poplar. Cut it down to lengths plus a bit that you need it for your bench, sticker it for a couple weeks in your shop to let it acclimate, make the final cuts and make the bench. The more end grain exposed the faster it'll acclimate.

[glenn bradley]

My rods are 7" on center and my 2" thick beech jaw is 14-1/2" wide. As Harry described for racking:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=114604&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1238558202http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=114605&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1238558202

[Clint Barden]

Great idea for the rack-reducer. I will definitely make one of those.

Back to the vise, I'm thinking the vise I have may not have enough travel for the end vise. I think the overal travel is 8" and change.... less the two jaws or one jaw and apron, that is looking like a whole lot of dog holes.

[glenn bradley]

Great idea for the rack-reducer. I will definitely make one of those.

Back to the vise, I'm thinking the vise I have may not have enough travel for the end vise. I think the overal travel is 8" and change.... less the two jaws or one jaw and apron, that is looking like a whole lot of dog holes.

It only needs to travel far enough to tighten the dogs for 95% of my use. My vise opens 10" with the faces on but my dog holes are at 6" centers. Even still, I have various width blocks that I use for the times I need an odd reach, Even though my vises are QR I find blocks quicker and more to my liking.

[Clint Barden]

I was doing some looking around for a bigger end vise, and was eyeing the Woodriver economy vise at Woodcraft for ~$77.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004875/7534/WoodRiver-Large-Front-Vise.aspx

I noticed this vise on Grizzly's website for $43.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Cabinet-Maker-s-Vise/H7788


They look the same to me. Does anyone have any recommendations (for or against either one?

Or should I just save a few more pennies for this one?
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17385

I did just get a promotion, maybe I should treat myself.... :)